Neglected 96 RN Build

Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Likes
21
Location
Cumming, Georgia
#24
You have done a ton of work to that ski! Kudo's to you on hanging in there! A lot of guys would have given up by now.
Thanks. I've lost track of how many hours it has taken at this point but it has to be over 100. It's easy to lose motivation just thinking about sanding for hours then scuff, clean apply more resin, wait 12 hours to dry and then sand more. It's easy to cut corners thinking about "nobody is going to notice that" or "the bottom is just going to get torn up anyway" which are both probably true lol. Sometimes I wish I just got another ski but the reality is most of them would have some body damage and soaked foam, or at least that's what I keep telling myself. It's a good learning process at least.

Do all glass work first, paint last.
Thanks, that's what I'll do.

I see you're from Cumming. We're just down the road in Dawsonville. If you need any Yamaha stuff or SJ stuff, we have a ton of it.
I appreciate it. I really just need a new midhsaft housing right now since the bushing is loose in mine.

I made a little more progress. I sanded all the new glass, feathering the edges down and smoothing the texture of the 4oz cloth. After cleaning it good with compressed air and acetone, I applied unthickened epoxy to the entire section I added using a 4 inch paint roller. That should fill in all the texture of the cloth and leave a nice surface for finish sanding. I thickened what was left over and did another round of filler, also started rebuilding the worn down chines by the transom.
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Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Likes
21
Location
Cumming, Georgia
#26
Finally have enough done to report on. I should have more done at this point but I've been getting lazy lol. The back ends of the tray were cracked and flimsy so I added a layer of 1708 and a few layers where it was chipped off. I also added some cabosil epoxy with 1/4 chopped strand to the inside rear corners of the chines. I already rebuilt them on the outside but I wanted a little extra protection in case the ski lands on its ass or something.
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I also finally got around to sealing in everything with 5200. Probably went a bit overkill in some places but I wanted to be sure it wouldn't leak. I plan to put it in a pool once it cures just to be sure. I wanted to be sure nothing jammed the versi plug up so I cut up a cheap kitchen dink drain screen and stuck it on the bulkhead to keep trash out hopefully.
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I took some parts to my buddies shop to bead blast them. It really cleaned up most the parts but it wouldn't touch the powder coating on the pipe and ride plate. I guess I'll try some stripper on that.
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I noticed a while back the glass under the pump mounting "feet" looks really worn down. Is that normal, from wear, or did someone grind them down? The pump had no shims when I took it out but the driveshaft seemed fairly centered (just glancing at it). The front two are like this but the back are only slightly worn.
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Hope everyone had a great Christmas and has a happy New Year.
 

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Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Likes
21
Location
Cumming, Georgia
#29
Check these guys out in Cumming to have your parts repowedercoated, you can also have the exhaust parts ceramic coated for better performance

http://www.procryo.com/
Thanks. I’ve actually used them a couple times in the past. Sometimes their prices are realistic and other times much more than they should be imo. If they want more than ~$150 for all of it I’ll probably just paint them myself or maybe have less of it powder coated. I have to draw the line somewhere of how much I’m going to spend on this thing.


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Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Likes
21
Location
Cumming, Georgia
#30
Looking good. I would put a piece of tape over the pump bolt inserts and then 5200 on top, just my two pennies
I’ve seen people do that before. However, I mocked up one of the pump bolts next to the pump foot and brass nut and the bolt was almost 1/4” longer. Granted all kinds of hardware on it is mismatched but 2 of the 4 matched and looked like OEM style hardware. I plan to blue loctite them which is why I figured I would be fine without it. Still may go back and do it then use shorter hardware.


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mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Likes
844
Location
St. Clair, MI
#31
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Likes
21
Location
Cumming, Georgia
#32
Got the foam mostly done. Used around a 1/3 a sheet of the pink foam along with some 1/2" I already had. Based off what I found online, a 2" thick sheet should float a little under 300lbs. So around 100lbs flotation plus the little bit of foam in the nose. Is there any evidence on how a ski floats with the pink foam? It's done now and I'm not changing it, just curious on if it would still float. The first pic is the sheet with a yard stick where the end would be.

I decided to work on something else and hit the CF hood and nose piece with a buffer and compound. It's not perfect but certainly an improvement over how they were.

Its almost time to glass the tray back in and I have a few questions.

What is the best way to hold the tray halves in place while the epoxy cures? For some reason mine need a good amount of pressure to "open up" and be flush with the gunwales and the pump tunnel.

Is it necessary to glue the tray floor to the pump tunnel where the factory uses the green glue? What about expanding foam behind the footholds? I read where some said it was needed for strength while a lot of people have no foam at all. I cut the pink foam as tight as I could, but obviously no where near as tight as the expanding foam.

How much reinforcement is needed on the tray? I was thinking cabosil/ chop strand the entire kerf first. Then for the bottom either 2 layers 1708 90* apart or 3 layers 45* apart. Then 2 layers of 1208 on the sides to be easier to conform and 1 layer 1708 on the dash. Any input on what is tried and true is appreciated.

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