Removing Top Deck? (1987 JS550 Rebuild/Engine Swap)

Joined
Jul 30, 2015
Likes
117
Location
Sacramento Delta
#41
Someone somewhere said that Yamaha sprayed the Superjets from the factory with Dupont Imron.

I know my 1977 Corvette was sprayed with Imron at the Chevy factory.

It is tough paint. So, you don't use a clear. I want to learn to spray Imron, but I am going to buy a cheap supplied air respirator and pump off of ebay before I even attempt it.

See this thread if you are interested:

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=121954

And if you do it, please post your results!
 

Sanoman

Feellikekrashing
Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Likes
2,167
Location
NE Tenn
#42
Someone somewhere said that Yamaha sprayed the Superjets from the factory with Dupont Imron.

I know my 1977 Corvette was sprayed with Imron at the Chevy factory.

It is tough paint. So, you don't use a clear. I want to learn to spray Imron, but I am going to buy a cheap supplied air respirator and pump off of ebay before I even attempt it.

See this thread if you are interested:

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=121954

And if you do it, please post your results!
I hope you will read the MSDS on Imron.That poop is highly toxic! Don’t go cheap on a full suit and good respirator
 

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Likes
37
Location
Houston
#44
Filling in the low spots Part 1 (Neunundneunzig Weiße Luftballons)

I took a few days off from ski work, went to see Willie Nelson at Rodeo Houston (good show, poor sound quality) Replaced the header flange gaskets in my Tundra, did some gardening, where was I going with this?

Right! Today I started by sanding the hull and knocking the unsupported edges of the bottom deck reinforcement off. Once that was blown clean and wiped with acetone, I mixed up 2 batches (8oz and 4oz) of epoxy mixed with micro-balloons to fill in the rough spots. The micro balloons are really cool, they flow differently than the cabosil when stirring and mixing them with epoxy.

If we call cabosil peanut butter and the filler looks like marshmallow fluff then by logic the ski must be a Fluffernutter and therefor delicious.

That bit of culinary education out of the way, I also removed the remaining squeezed out adhesive from the edge of the tubbies and stripped the remaining paint/gelkote off.

Time Spent:
4 Hours (this seems to be a recurring theme...)

Tools Used:
Rockwell Oscillating Multi Tool
Porter Cable 5" Orbital Sander
Shop Vac
Box Cutter
3/4" Chisel

Materials Used:
12OZ Resin
9 Scoops of Micro Balloons
4 80 Grit Sanding Discs

Tunes Jammed To:
Album: Forever in the Friendzone
Artist: Suburban Legends
Comments: There are some high and low notes, I recommend listening to the whole album.

PPE Used:
Half Respirator
Tyvek Suit
3M Worktunes Headhones
2 pairs Hazard Frito 7mil blue bomber gloves

Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
26% (That may have been actual marshmallow fluff, I wasn't willing to taste it though. )

Percentage complete:
80% (You and I in a little E-shop, buy some microballoons with the money I got. Set them mixed in the garage of Sean, till one by one, they were on. Back again, bugs in the fill-air. Grab the tyvek and the sand-air. Sanding here, its almost time. Ninety-Nine Microballoons go by!)

Sean


I have no future as a body-guy or a baker



Low spots filled, high spots glazed


Streaky, what you look for in a high performance coating...
 
Last edited:

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Likes
37
Location
Houston
#45
Filling in the low spots Part 2 (THE REFIL-IN-ING)

Dawn of the first day (48 hours remain)

I started out yesterday by knocking back (rather aggressively) the cake icing with a combination of the belt sander and disc sander. This got rid of most of the wrinkles and left me with a reasonably smooth surface. Once that was done and mostly flat, I blasted it with some black crust-oleum paint so I could see the low spots. I gave that time to dry and retired to the parlor to consider my life choices for the remainder of the evening. Once the witching hour arrived, I drifted into a fitful slumber and arose at the dawn of a new day.

Dawn of the second day (24 hours remain)

Tonight I went back to the garage and attacked the hull by hand with a 2 foot section of 3" diameter SCH 40 PVC Pipe. To actually remove material, I wrapped it in a full sheet of 80 grit purple sandpaper. This was pretty effective at removing the high spots from the chines. Mostly I went back and forth along the axis of the hull, the only tricky part was getting the transition points between the chine and the center of the hull. To take care of that area, I sanded on an alternating 45 and 135 degree pattern which seems to have worked pretty well.

To finish the hull off. I mixed up 2 batches of the micro balloons and resin, this time each was 4oz resin and 2 scoops of the filler. This mixed to a thick but still leveling consistency which I applied with a paint brush. I will be letting this setup and then repeating the sanding process tomorrow but hopefully with 150 grit to prep for a high build primer.

SIDE NOTE: I know everyone talks about not using cheap brushes because they shed like a husky in the summertime in Houston. There is a very good reason for that, picking out brush bristles is one of the most frustrating things I have done during this build. DON'T USE CHEAP BRUSHES

We will pick this up tomorrow to see how much more filler I need or if I just say screw it, its a JS hull and leave it as is...


Time Spent:
8 Hours over 2 days (Hand sanding with pvc pipe is a real workout, 3 hours of that was popping bubbles in the resin and picking lost brush hairs out of the filler...)

Tools Used:
Ryobi 3x18" Belt Sander
Porter Cable 5" Orbital Sander
Shop Vac
2'X3" SCH 40 PVC pipe
1/3 Sheet Sandpaper Drywall Sander Holder Thing

Materials Used:
8OZ Resin
4 Scoops of Micro Balloons
6 80 Grit Sand Paper Sheets
2 cheap paint brushes (learn from my mistakes, heed my warning young warrior)

Time Spent with Garage Door Open, shaking my ass back and forth while my neighbors looked on in horror:
2 hours, you have gotta use your legs when sanding. If you don't feel the burn, you won't get them gains. Never skip leg day, even if you are truing a hull.

PPE Used:
Half Respirator
Tyvek Suit
3M Worktunes Headhones
4 pairs Hazard Frito 7mil blue bomber gloves (Sandpaper kept ripping them)

Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
26.2% (Negligible Gains due to the brush bristles coming off the damn paintbrush)

Percentage complete:
90% (I think I have one more round of sanding before I sling some high build filler primer on it.)

Sean




Always let your Rustoleum be your guide



Sanding tool thing I used, its a plastic handle with some foam on it with clips that come loose anytime you look at it funny


Areas where I didn't have the layup schedule flat and sanded into the CSM layer show texture, Not my best moment.



We have established that cabosil is peanut butter, lots of microballoons are marshmallow fluff, allow me to introduce to you, doughnut glaze!


This little guy, don't worry about that little guy...
 
Last edited:

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Likes
37
Location
Houston
#46
Motor and Electronics Part 1 (A Brief Intermission from Your Regularly Scheduled Program, Don't Get Used to it)

I will start by saying, I don't get the electronics setup on standups. That is a drastic oversimplification, but from a user and dealership perspective this setup has some really stupid "features". I cut my teeth with 4 stroke runabouts and all that stuff makes sense to me (except for seadoos, really brp?) You can pull the motor without opening any electronics up or having to hang the ecu off the motor when you go to remove it. The E-Box to me is basically a waste of space and weight. The electronics on the 4 stroke runabouts don't typically fail and when they do, its the gauges (for the most part). That being said, I plan to use that style of electronics to both simplify and add lightness on this build.

Complaints:

1) The entire system is interconnected without easily reachable disconnects. On the runabouts (couches) and most other vehicles the harness can be unplugged from the system without removing bolts (looking at you stator wiring)

2) The method of sealing the E-Box relies on orb fittings made of plastic that then have to be tightened against to seal the wiring that passes through them. It works as long as the fittings are tight (but not too tight) and as long as the rubber is new.

3) The E-Box itself contains a weird mix of sealed and unsealed electronics. The ECU itself is potted but the connections to the trim and power wires are unsealed. The fuse holder is sealed in the E box but the connections are open. The coil wires are sealed with epoxy (more or less permanently) while the starter solenoid is open.

Proposed Solution:

1) Since the ECU is potted and I have a ready supply of sealed connectors, I am just going to mount the stock ECU on a plate and connect the system using stock style sumitomo connectors that are commonly used on the runabouts.

2) By swapping to an external setup, it eliminates the issue with Complaint 2, I will also be moving the coil and starter solenoid to a plate rather than a box. For the coil I will swap to the couch coil with different plug ends, for the solenoid, I will probably use one of the seadoo solenoids since they are small and sealed. Basically I will be replicating the STX-15f style electronics. This will free up lots of space and make the install much cleaner and more modern. Service should be loads easier.

Mounts and Swap

I finally got around to opening my first round of goodies from Rhaas Products today. From a first glance, the mounts are really well made and the adapter plate is very nicely machined. I thought the custom hardware was a nice touch for the bedplate adapter. I also placed my order for the driveline conversion today, I went with the grooved plate, standard plastic bulkhead (for now) and added the conversion bearing. My X2 Driveshaft showed up today and my 750 Pump and 650 nozzle are on the way.

Motor

As for the motor, I have not spent much time going over it. Externally, it is super clean. I will probably get into it tomorrow or Friday to give it a once over. Off the bat, I need both the oil pump blockoff and the crankcase drain blockoff. I will need new reed gaskets and carb gaskets, 2 carb kits, and exhaust gaskets. I plan to do a leakdown test on the engine and verify the crank seals are ok before going too far with it. Plans for now are to run it stock but freshened up.

Time Spent:
4 Hours (most of which was spent cleaning the cocaine sanding dust out of the work area and wheeling my shop carts around)

Tools Used:
Broom
Shop Vac
Air Blow Gun
Box Cutter

Materials Used:
None

PPE Used:
Half Respirator
3M Worktunes Headhones

Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
22.2% (I removed some cured epoxy)

Percentage complete:
N/A (Taking a break from composite work to plan out where the engine and electronics are going to live)

Sean


Missing features? The "holes" are sealed.


The whole ECU is potted, I have tried to removed this before on a STX-15f Ecu when I was looking into flash tools and its a royal pain. The STX ecus are sealed really well, I would not hesitate to run this out of the E-Box provided I can get a good connector installed.


It really reminds me of a shrunken 15f Ecu which makes sense given this was probably 10 years older than when the 12f came out.



Parts, Living on the gulf coast, well away from fresh water, I am not used to seeing older gear that is this clean.


RHAAS PRODUCTS BABY
 
Last edited:

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Likes
37
Location
Houston
#47
Potential Paint Scheme 1 (Enforced Idleness Breeds Boredom)

I am currently waiting on parts and don't really feel like getting dusty right now so I spent some time bench racing and making go-fast graphics. I got to talking with a buddy of mine over the weekend and since the 750 I am dropping in is so clean he suggested using the big pin 750 color as an accent on the ski. I hadn't considered it but thought it could be a cool setup. I also already had some interlux brightsides steel grey for an unrelated project that got put on hold which led to this.

1584413932105.png

It's not finished by any stretch of the imagination but I am happy with where its going so far.

Time Spent:
1.5 Hours (I found a base layout online from IPD and set about removing all their hard work so I could scribble over it in crayon)

Tools Used:
Paint.NET
Corsair K95 RGB Keyboard
TTEsports Level 10M Mouse
MSI 34" Ultrawide
Hyper-X Cloud 2 Headphones
Ikea Desk Chair

Materials Used:
None (bits and bytes only)

PPE Used:
None (I too like to live dangerously)

Music Listened to with the Wife While I Worked:
Ida Mae (British blues group, give them a listen)

Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
22.2% (Working in the study)

Percentage complete:
N/A (Taking a break from composite work to plan out where the engine and electronics are going to live)

Sean
 

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Likes
37
Location
Houston
#48
Small Update 1 (Intermission, go get some snacks)

I have been kind of dragging ass lately for which I apologize dear readers. Mostly this time has been spent waiting on parts or working on other projects. I had a string of bad ebay luck and received some broken parts, fought to get a refund, waited, ordered more parts, never got them, fought for a refund, ultimately got my money back, and finally reordered from a less sketchy seller.

In route is a 750 pump assembly to match the Rhass driveline conversion. Supposedly its still being made, hopefully it will show up soon.

I received my electrical parts from Eastern Beaver and did a base layout of how I am planning to mount the electrics.

I also bead blasted the motor mount adapters and installed the bedplate adapter onto the 750. Once I stuck it in the hull, I realized I don't remember which way the bedplate goes on the motor so I may need to flip it around. I am also not happy with the way the paint is holding up on the bedplate and motor mount adapters so I may end up redoing them.

I have a line on a 650 coffmans pipe and a 650 pjs pipe for the 750, any preference towards one or the other?

Time Spent:
3 Hours (Blasting, spraying, cleaning, and bolting)

Tools Used:
Impact Driver
Blast Cabinet


Materials Used:
Glass Bead Blast Media
Black High Temp auto paint
Cardboard

PPE Used:
Half Mask Respirator

Weeks Wasted Without Doing Anything on the Ski :
1

Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
22.2% (no new epoxy but there are some black over spray marks)

Percentage complete:
N/A (Please be careful out there, stay home wherever possible.)

Sean


Motor Mount Adapters (I am not thrilled with how well the paint stuck, I will probably redo these and the bedplate)


Stator Cavity ( I am really not used to ski motors being as corrosion free as this one is, its a welcome surprise)



Motor Swap Adapter and Oil Drain Blockoff


Placed in for Fit Check


Electrics Layout and Spacing Option
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom