Ok so this is the second SXI Pro I have for my GF. I ride the SXR and I need her to keep up.
She is 130-140lbs with riding gear on.
The first Pro is bone stock other than the plate being shimmed down to help the porpoise. Fun ski to ride and learn on, playful, carves ok but more of a sliding tendency. A dog on the low end.
She rides the stock ski great so “tray time” isn’t really the solution for the porpoise as she can rip pretty good on a stock Pro and control the porpoise.
So I built her this second Pro with an 850 big bore, this Ski definitely has some get up and go. I used a D cut Worx extended ride plate with the double concave shape (like a stock stxr 1200 look) and a worx? (I think) scoop intake grate. This rideplate is long...it is 19.5 inches long! (I don’t know of one longer.) Nozzle has stock shim installed nozzle down/nose down.
With several washers as shims in the back of the plate, I (180 lbs) was able to hammer it and not get a porpoise. The problem was once my gf was on it it seemed waaay too nose low in turns. Even with me on it it seemed I needed to be way back on the ski to keep it from washing out in corners. I pulled all the shims out and it cornered better for her but porpoises worse. I but half the shims back in and she has yet to test ride it. Obviously trying to fine tune the plate.
Now I hear the Pro can really handle well with hull extensions (no longer avail) extended plate and tubbies up front. Now am I correct in assuming I shouldn’t need hull extensions if the plate can get me enough nose down?
Can I shim back in the nose down pressure and correct it with tubbies up front?
What is the best set up to make these things carve?
It seems nose down was porpoising less and cornering worse and vice versa.
I want both, to remove the porpoise and improve the grip in the corners.
Any help would be appreciated!
She is 130-140lbs with riding gear on.
The first Pro is bone stock other than the plate being shimmed down to help the porpoise. Fun ski to ride and learn on, playful, carves ok but more of a sliding tendency. A dog on the low end.
She rides the stock ski great so “tray time” isn’t really the solution for the porpoise as she can rip pretty good on a stock Pro and control the porpoise.
So I built her this second Pro with an 850 big bore, this Ski definitely has some get up and go. I used a D cut Worx extended ride plate with the double concave shape (like a stock stxr 1200 look) and a worx? (I think) scoop intake grate. This rideplate is long...it is 19.5 inches long! (I don’t know of one longer.) Nozzle has stock shim installed nozzle down/nose down.
With several washers as shims in the back of the plate, I (180 lbs) was able to hammer it and not get a porpoise. The problem was once my gf was on it it seemed waaay too nose low in turns. Even with me on it it seemed I needed to be way back on the ski to keep it from washing out in corners. I pulled all the shims out and it cornered better for her but porpoises worse. I but half the shims back in and she has yet to test ride it. Obviously trying to fine tune the plate.
Now I hear the Pro can really handle well with hull extensions (no longer avail) extended plate and tubbies up front. Now am I correct in assuming I shouldn’t need hull extensions if the plate can get me enough nose down?
Can I shim back in the nose down pressure and correct it with tubbies up front?
What is the best set up to make these things carve?
It seems nose down was porpoising less and cornering worse and vice versa.
I want both, to remove the porpoise and improve the grip in the corners.
Any help would be appreciated!