650/X-2 Factory 750 pipe

Does a factory limited 750 pipe fit in a x2 hull? After doing some testing I desided to go with the 750 pipe over a 650 pipe but Dont know if the pipe will actually fit. I am doing a aftermarket kart tank for the gas take so just worried about the hull.
 

N2 H2O

Previously Tbone550
Location
Charlotte, NC
Do the pipes matter at all? Or do you get the same hp increase with just a different exhaust port (back vs side)?
Definitely. Chamber size plays a big role in where the power band is. Most of the time, a bigger chamber= more low end, less top end. smaller chamber= more top end, less low end. Also, different companies have different cooling setups, which effect power.
 
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Look at my build. It does fit. The FPP manifold puts the headpipe into the hull. You need to use a Westcoast manifold which has a different angle for the bolts. You also need to grind off the lord mount on the westcoast if using the 750 limited chamber, but not with the other chambers. With the 750 limited chamber, you need to get a longer coupler for the headpipe to chamber connection. Otherwise you need to cut the hull to allow for the space needed to use the FPP manifold. The manifold and headpipe combination is independent of the chamber.

You can put on the manifold and the headpipe and change the chambers w/o changing those other 2 things, so the choice to use FPP is one that can be made reguardless of if you are using a 750 limited, blaster or SJ chamber.

However, you are asking about the 750 chamber specifically. The problem with the 750 chamber is that it bolts to a lord mount on the front of the motor and bleeds directly infront of the motor. This means you cannot use the stock gas tank w/o significant heat manipulation of the tank. This also creates issues with many other tanks, so unless you are going with a cart tank, you are going to have a hassle. Additionally, the 750 limited chamber is designed to have an additional stainless pipe that routes the exhaust around the left side of the motor to a rear waterbox. This pipe has the water fitting you see on the end of the SJ pipes, so w/o this pipe or some modified version of it, your waterbox is likely to run hot and loud. Also, you cannot wrap the exhaust around the motor to a rear waterbox, as you cannot run a rear waterbox, so you must run it forward in a way it was not designed to the forward box. Alternatives would be to make a custom waterbox to fit into a different location.

After it was all said and done, I gave in and purchased a SJ limited chamber for my 750. I would like to run the pipe that FPP designed for my motor, but after all of the hassle, I had a exhaust system that wouldn't function as it was designed (because I had a westcoast manifold and extended coupler making my exhaust longer than it was suppose to be) and some funky exhaust routing that just made no sense. I am happy with my Westcoast 650 manifold, FPP headpipe, SJ limited FPP chamber and stock RN SJ waterbox going to a Blaster outlet. This is the method that I would support. Remember, the FPP 750 limited was designed for your motor but not your boat.

I have been through this process. I would discourage you from doing it unless you are going to make the hull modifications to allow use of the proper manifold and coupler, and get a fuel tank and waterbox that will allow appropriate flow of the exhaust.
 
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
This is why you cannot use the FPP manifold w/o cutting the hull...
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Here's the FPP display of the pipe. Note in the 1st picture the metel pipe with the water fitting going to the rear waterbox.
750sxl.gif701blm.gif

FPP 750 limited in my boat
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With the stock tank
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With the 550 tank
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Here's a picture of the clearance you have to the bottom of the hull with the FPP 750 pipe.
1101091549a.jpg

SJ limited chamber with the stock tank. You can't use the stock tank with the RN SJ waterbox because it needs a right sided exhaust. Using a X2 waterbox, you can easily accomidate the pipe and the battery. You might be able to use the stock tank and battery location if you routed the exhaust over the tank, but I did not care to try.
0131001742.jpg0131001742a.jpg

I just went with a 550 tank. It was free for me, but you could easily accomplish the same with a Cart tank. While some pictures show the fill location block facing forward, it is currently installed in my boat with the fill location facing the pipe and plugged with a PVC cap I got from Home Depot. (Edit: this 1st pic is how my boat is presently set up, except I rotated the tank counter-clockwise 90*)
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Edit: Lastly, this is my exhaust outlet. I used a blaster exhaust and worked it through my Tom21 tubbies. If I were to do it again, I would move it to the very far back of the engine compartment. Actually, my next X2 will have rear exhaust, but with this boat I didn't want to do all that work and rip up my nice turf, which is why it's up front, but I do wish it was in the back of the engine compartment. My boat is LOUD! I have a jetworks flow control. My box stays dry.
P6070485.jpg
 
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N2 H2O

Previously Tbone550
Location
Charlotte, NC
Did you see the link I posted? Chad had a pipe fabbed up to run up the the x2 waterbox and left it with the stock left exit with a x2 waterbox.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Did you see the link I posted? Chad had a pipe fabbed up to run up the the x2 waterbox and left it with the stock left exit with a x2 waterbox.

Yes. He's running the westcoast manifold with a grounded down lord mount. Instead of using an extended coupler like I did, he paid someone to weld the pipe longer. Both ways result in a longer than designed pipe that reduces bottom end performance.

Then he had a bunch of pipe welded to make it go to the X2 waterbox. You could do the same thing with 2 of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-90-de...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6d60da95 $10 plus a piece of pipe, or if you don't like 90*, grab a few 45*. Either way, he ran a pipe with a 2" exhaust outlet to a waterbox with a 1-3/4 inlet-outlet and said all is good because the baffles have a few holes drilled in it.

I had the same setup he does. He just spent a lot more money and his is pretty.

My X2 runs like :):):):) for the amount of money and time in it, and it certainly looks no where nearly as nice as that one. I'm not trying to be a dick. I've just learned my lesson on this topic and hope to share. It's a waste.

Why use a pipe on a motor because it was designed for that motor, then alter the length of the pipe, use a different manifold, and run it to a waterbox that is too small? I'd agree with it being the best pipe for the motor, if it were still that pipe, but it's been modified, and that matters. I still vote FPP over a AM 650 pipe, just not in favor of that chamber. A lot of extra work for not much result.
 
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N2 H2o- I Check that link, Thank you very much that was very help full to see his set up! thanks again, I'm going to make it work! I know its going to be alot of work but im going to try and do it.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
N2 H2o- I Check that link, Thank you very much that was very help full to see his set up! thanks again, I'm going to make it work! I know its going to be alot of work but im going to try and do it.

It's not a lot of work. You need a westcoast 650 manifold, a longer chamber coupler, 2 90* couplers, a piece of stainless pipe, a couple of hose clamps, a long drill bit and a new tank. Put a 90* off the bottom of the pipe going left, then a 90* going forward. Connect to the 650 elbows. Use the drill to open up the waterbox baffles. Probably a good idea to open up the neck on the 650 manifold where it meets the headpipe. Done. Functionally the same thing, less pretty, much cheaper.
 
Vumad I can't thank you enough for that write up with pictures. So I have a 650 westcoast exhaust manifold off of the 650 that was in my ski previously. But I would like to make the factory manifold work. If I were to do a bubble on my hull. Which do you think would be the best? If I were to do the bubble would it just be on my hull or would it have to be partially on the hood too?
 

N2 H2O

Previously Tbone550
Location
Charlotte, NC
Just use the wc manifold and have it and the head pipe bored to 46mm. I wouldn't mess with the hull bubble because you would probably have to bubble the hood too, which would be a pain.
 
Yeah I wouldnt mind doing the bubble but if I have to do the hood I think it might be a bit more than I bargined for. Pipe is going to be hear next week hopefully. So I need to find a motor by next week.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Youre welcome. I think the hull only would need the bubble 2 fit the pipe but bigger to get it into place so I'm not sure. Use the westcoast. I didn't bore mine but u should bore the top to match the head pipe. Again, I didn't works good enough.
 
Youre welcome. I think the hull only would need the bubble 2 fit the pipe but bigger to get it into place so I'm not sure. Use the westcoast. I didn't bore mine but u should bore the top to match the head pipe. Again, I didn't works good enough.


What do you mean it doesn't work good enough? What is the best way to bore the manifold?
 
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