Super Jet BrightE's Generic RN Build!

[BrightE's]

So I figure it's about time to start a build thread to document all my troubles, and so I don't have to start a new thread every-time I have a build question.

Have:
2004 RN
Factory B Pipe
Worx Intake 201

Intend to add:
Zero Tubbies
ADA Racing head
Full Hull Reinforcment
Bilge + Switch + LED
Blowsion Quicksteer
0 Degree Bars
Billet Finger Throttle
Impros Hooker 9/15
-3" Cut Hull
D-Cut Plate flush with cut hull
-2.5" shortened handle pole
Reform tray with EPP
Install Footholds
VersiPlug Max + Plumbing
Re-turf

Here was the start, to catch ya up:
Everything out

Little bit of damage on the hull wall from my Factory Pipe, will be patching later after cleaned up.

Need to get the excess globs of bond line epoxy out.

 

[BrightE's]

Next are the control mods. Took the pole off, got the blowsion quicksteer on, and bought a Artic Cat / Polaris bilge, stop, start box to install an on/off switch and LED. I had to snake a ground wire down the handle pole grommet for the LED. There is more on this here near the end of the thread: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/117448...ed-start-stop-bilge-control-anyone-tried-this

Here is the function video:

Here was the electric scheme.

And the bilge, start, stop, box and guts that was once momentary, now on/off

 

[BrightE's]

Tubbie Install, did one side per weekend for 2 weeks. First time ever with mass amounts of epoxy, pretty hectic.

Now to get some of that excess epoxy out of the hull, and make some room for fiberglass in the bond line and corners.

 

[BrightE's]

Stock tray pads and some of the stock graphics off, that sucked, removed all the tray pad adhesive without a 3M eraser wheel and by hand, next time I won't make that mistake.

Here is the start of the clean up inside the hull prepping for glass. Ground the ribs down and sanded everything. I wore SMC and fiberglass dust for 2 days straight.

 

[BrightE's]

Next is the final clean and prep:
Spic and span -

Now for the fiberglass templates (found bed sheeting with lines helped immensely for lining everything up and cutting purposes.

Sides:

Hull Floor:

 

[BrightE's]

Moving onto glass cutting. Sides were fine, I messed up the bottom glass cloth though by drawing the outline on the wrong side!! I want the shinny part of the glass up once laid, starting over on that one.

 

[superjetchet21]

LOVE THAT LED IDEA! Ive been messing with stupid bulky bilge switches and I can never figure anything out that I end up liking. Your Idea looks awesome, its fully water proof? and just curious to hw much the entire set up cost you and what switch you are using?

 

[BrightE's]

It should be waterproof. That switch was advertised as waterproof and a couple other guys have used them too. The LED I know is waterproof, and is rated for it. Whole thing cost me about $45, but that's including a used Tiger Shark stop/stop/bilge switch module. I saw some other guys use the same switch and install it externally in their stock stop/start module, so that would only require a $5 waterproof switch, and a $3.00 waterproof LED, and some wires.

Waterproof Switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190668712309

LED's, many of which are waterproof rated: http://www.oznium.com/leds

 

[superjetchet21]

awesome! thanks man

 

[BrightE's]

So I am finally going to be laying glass this weekend, hull floor and both internal walls. I want them all to cure as one big chemically bonded polymer sheet, so I want to lay the floor first, then flip onto one side, lay glass, then flip onto the other side, and lay glass, and hopefully have them all cure together.

I am however a little concerned after receiving 17oz biaxial glass, that because of its weight, it will pull itself off the first wall I lay down as soon as I flip the ski to lay the other. Will the uncured epoxy have enough tack strength to hold the glass upside down while I work on the other side?

 

[MCrider]

When i did mine i let it cure before i flipped.

 

[jloria]

looks good man...all that hard work will be worth it

I know I have had to walk away from my ski a few times with some choice words to myself or at the ski!

 

[BrightE's]

So its looking like it might be safest to let one side cure before flipping and finishing up?

 

[jloria]

I always let it cure before any movement...

then clean up any areas that may be sharp or built up...

they leave nasty cuts if not careful...they will slice u wide open

 

[BrightE's]

I wonder if it would hold if I made a ghetto saran-wrap vac bag over the opposing side to keep it taut while I glass up the other wall...

 

[jloria]

once it's starts to harden...i think ur good...just make sure it doesnt move...

i just try not to disturb it...probably doesnt matter...

i just go work on something else or prep the other side but I am sure ur good to go

 

[BrightE's]

Whelp, I was able to lay all three sides in one go, so they will all cure as one big ass, cross-linked, molecule. Which I am pretty pumped about. Was a little concerned after handling my tac clothes post glass lay when they felt very waxy, and I'm hoping they didn't leave too much residue where I used them.

Walls - 1 Layer of 1708
Floor - 1 Layer of 1208

Beautiful day at the lake, great time to do some first time ever glass laying.

Floor laid, filling bond line with epoxy.

Left wall glassed

Right wall glassed.

Waiting over night to cure.

 

[bobob729]

i like your bed sheet idea and it looks really good

 

[Byeai]

Cut the nose off do a rocker nose

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

 

[BrightE's]

Cut the nose off do a rocker nose

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

Maybe next winter. Trying to have the thing ready for the Dells Freeride at the end of May, and my skis stay two hours from my apartment in Chicago so I can only work on them selectively on weekends. It's pretty much a guarantee that you have to do a full repaint if you chop the nose right?