WaveJunkies.com > Gallery > SJ Hull Reinforcement *** LInk is Dead***
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Reinforcement - Roundnose SJ gallery
- Thread starter SuperJETT
- Start date
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
SKi Ribs: To grind or not to grind, that is the question.
Most people say grind, others say its needed for structural integrity.
Read and decide for yourself:
grinding the hull ribs
another re-enforceing thread
PWCT: should i be grinding on these too?
Most people say grind, others say its needed for structural integrity.
Read and decide for yourself:
grinding the hull ribs
another re-enforceing thread
PWCT: should i be grinding on these too?
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michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Reinforcement how to's and examples
Other Threads and Builds that may be helpful:
Should you reconsider reinforcement?
"Derailing the reinforcement bandwagon!"
Yamaslut 1997 Freeride Ski Build Thread - January 2006 - THE Manual. Great documentation and photos, from paint prep to the tools used for the job. A definite read if you plan on a F/S build.
My budget freestyle build - Another great build, lots of photos.
Reinforcing the nose... + pics
Great step by step:
Handlepole Bracket Reinforcement 101
PWCT: FUN FUN FUN!!!!!!!
Foam, reinforcement (incl. Pole and hood lip), and Turf
05 SJ surf/free reinforce/build-up
Has listed of materials used
Defoaming
Other Threads and Builds that may be helpful:
Should you reconsider reinforcement?
"Derailing the reinforcement bandwagon!"
Yamaslut 1997 Freeride Ski Build Thread - January 2006 - THE Manual. Great documentation and photos, from paint prep to the tools used for the job. A definite read if you plan on a F/S build.
My budget freestyle build - Another great build, lots of photos.
Reinforcing the nose... + pics
Great step by step:
Handlepole Bracket Reinforcement 101
PWCT: FUN FUN FUN!!!!!!!
Foam, reinforcement (incl. Pole and hood lip), and Turf
05 SJ surf/free reinforce/build-up
Has listed of materials used
Defoaming
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reinforcing with fiberglass only questoins - Quantities of Materials, and Fiberglass resin vs Expoxy resin.
Last edited by a moderator:
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Reinforcement 101 - Fiberglass Carbon Kevlar etc.
These posts are for answering questions about Carbon/Fiberglass: What to use, how to work with it, and/or where to buy.
uscomposites.com - Different types of epoxy. Match climatic conditions with epoxy.
Carbon Fiber - Type of Carbon and Working with carbon
These posts are for answering questions about Carbon/Fiberglass: What to use, how to work with it, and/or where to buy.
uscomposites.com - Different types of epoxy. Match climatic conditions with epoxy.
Carbon Fiber - Type of Carbon and Working with carbon
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michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Reinforcement SuperJet technique
This is a work in progress, but has some great photos of the process. When I do my boat just as it warms up here in Texas (Late March, early April) I will do a detailed writeup with a list of supplies, etc.
It will be avialable in a PDF file for printing if you want to have a copy while you work.
*****************************************************
REINFORCEMENT:
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/2581
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/6070
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=60321
http://www.wavejunkies.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/10823
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?p=606631#post606631
"On my wifes (aka my backup ski), I am doing the top deck with 17oz biax, then filling the bond line, then covering the whole side with another layer of biax and possibly a layer of mat to give me something easy to sand smoothish. Three layers biax under handlepole mount, one layer behind bulkhead, one layer in tray, one layer inside hood, and one layer c/f in bottom of engine compartment. I'm thinking 1.5gal w/med hardner and 3yd biax."
beachjunkey
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FYI:
lay it up all at one time. You do not want layers to cure in between.
If you do one layup, it all cures together. That's what you want.
Matt_E
******************************************
Use cardboard or brown paper for cutout templates.
******************************************
you will need to sand/grind the epoxy now...
Remember: when you glass something or epoxy it and it dries, you have to rough it up again in order for the epoxy to stick good to the surface. Any type of glue/epoxy/resin needs a roughed up surface in order to adhere properly... That's why we wanted you to do the carbon and glass together... You always want to do all the layers on a particular side/area in one sitting... It cuts down on sanding and grinding, not to mention un-needed dust and debris....
******************************************
you can only read so much before you just have to try it. For your liner, make a cutout out of cardboard and duct tape it all over (wont stick to that). I recommend West Systems, its pricey, but nearly foolproof. Don’t over saturate, you want it to look like its 'trying' to look wet, but not shiny (to saturated), and not white (not saturated enough). It takes a little experience, but once you do a little, its pretty easy IMO. Remember that only a 50/50 weight of epoxy to glass will produce max strength (for most glass), so for 9 oz glass, you should need 9 oz. More epoxy only adds weight and in some cases weakness, you want just enough epoxy to saturate the glass, the glass is where all the strength comes from.
meatball
******************************************
While you are reinforcing, do inside the rear gunwals. espicaly the side you land your rolls on!!!
Under the hood lip: Get a roll of 2" dirictional carbon, cut it to length,wet it out, roll it long ways , as if you were trying to make a fishing pole. then lay it into the lip area. Take another piece of the directional carbon & lay it flat overtop as a finish edge. You will never break your lip area again!
Under the pole: Mount your hull upside down so you can work standing up inside the hull. Fill the "pockets on either side of the pole mount with 4# density foam. shape flat. Lay your Kevlar over the entire area, 3 layers thick.
You just solved the weak pole mount.
Hey Charles, For a guy who makes fake legs, Your doing a pretty nice job!!! ( Paint It )
ski ya, Paul
http://www.pwctoday.com/showpost.php?p=628696&postcount=14
This is a work in progress, but has some great photos of the process. When I do my boat just as it warms up here in Texas (Late March, early April) I will do a detailed writeup with a list of supplies, etc.
It will be avialable in a PDF file for printing if you want to have a copy while you work.
*****************************************************
REINFORCEMENT:
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/2581
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/6070
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=60321
http://www.wavejunkies.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/10823
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?p=606631#post606631
- Remove everything from inside bilge
- Tape holes not to be covered (battery, motor mounts, etc.)
- Grind ribs
- Clean, clean, clean – remove all dirt, dust, oil, and grime
- Sand with 36 grit to provide better bonding
- “Fill bond line (resin mixed with milled fibers) - its best to do the reinforcement before the bondrail cures so the bondrail-fill and the reinforcemnt (biax, for sure.... i used 1208) will have a chemical bond.”
http://www.x-h2o.com/showpost.php?p=36857&postcount=30
Also - http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/2581/post-36080#post36080
Also - http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?p=548940#post548940 - One 3” or 4” stip of 17oz biax along bond line
- 1 full width layer of biax
"On my wifes (aka my backup ski), I am doing the top deck with 17oz biax, then filling the bond line, then covering the whole side with another layer of biax and possibly a layer of mat to give me something easy to sand smoothish. Three layers biax under handlepole mount, one layer behind bulkhead, one layer in tray, one layer inside hood, and one layer c/f in bottom of engine compartment. I'm thinking 1.5gal w/med hardner and 3yd biax."
beachjunkey
******************************************
FYI:
lay it up all at one time. You do not want layers to cure in between.
If you do one layup, it all cures together. That's what you want.
Matt_E
******************************************
Use cardboard or brown paper for cutout templates.
******************************************
you will need to sand/grind the epoxy now...
Remember: when you glass something or epoxy it and it dries, you have to rough it up again in order for the epoxy to stick good to the surface. Any type of glue/epoxy/resin needs a roughed up surface in order to adhere properly... That's why we wanted you to do the carbon and glass together... You always want to do all the layers on a particular side/area in one sitting... It cuts down on sanding and grinding, not to mention un-needed dust and debris....
******************************************
you can only read so much before you just have to try it. For your liner, make a cutout out of cardboard and duct tape it all over (wont stick to that). I recommend West Systems, its pricey, but nearly foolproof. Don’t over saturate, you want it to look like its 'trying' to look wet, but not shiny (to saturated), and not white (not saturated enough). It takes a little experience, but once you do a little, its pretty easy IMO. Remember that only a 50/50 weight of epoxy to glass will produce max strength (for most glass), so for 9 oz glass, you should need 9 oz. More epoxy only adds weight and in some cases weakness, you want just enough epoxy to saturate the glass, the glass is where all the strength comes from.
meatball
******************************************
While you are reinforcing, do inside the rear gunwals. espicaly the side you land your rolls on!!!
Under the hood lip: Get a roll of 2" dirictional carbon, cut it to length,wet it out, roll it long ways , as if you were trying to make a fishing pole. then lay it into the lip area. Take another piece of the directional carbon & lay it flat overtop as a finish edge. You will never break your lip area again!
Under the pole: Mount your hull upside down so you can work standing up inside the hull. Fill the "pockets on either side of the pole mount with 4# density foam. shape flat. Lay your Kevlar over the entire area, 3 layers thick.
You just solved the weak pole mount.
Hey Charles, For a guy who makes fake legs, Your doing a pretty nice job!!! ( Paint It )
ski ya, Paul
http://www.pwctoday.com/showpost.php?p=628696&postcount=14
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michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Approximate dimensions of the bilge (not precise, will vary):
Sides:
56" long - Nose to dash
16" tall at the tallest point
Bottom:
21.5" wide x 52" long
Nose:
18" x 20"
Firewall/Dash:
22x17
All measurements are approximate and do not forget to add addtional material for waste.
Sides:
56" long - Nose to dash
16" tall at the tallest point
Bottom:
21.5" wide x 52" long
Nose:
18" x 20"
Firewall/Dash:
22x17
All measurements are approximate and do not forget to add addtional material for waste.
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