Lamey Cylinder / Power Factor Exhaust issue and cooling line routing question...

[Roo]

First issue is regarding the Power Factor Manifold and how it mates to the Lamey Cylinder. As you can see in the second picture, the cylinder has water ports on the sides and bottom - NOT on top due to the powervalve ports.

The Power Factor Manifold however has water ports on only the top and bottom.


The first picture shows what I am thinking for the routing.

I will be utilizing dual cooling for this (red in the picture).

• One line from the pump into the bottom of the manifold - this will feed the cylinder through the bottom ports only. The fitting on top of the manifold, run over to the water resonator chamber (yellow). I am thinking of putting a restricter in this line to force more water to stay in the manifold/run through the cylinder.

• The other line from the pump to the exhaust chamber. This will feed the chamber, then have a pisser line (green) from the chamber out the side of the hull.

• Two lines from the motor (green), straight out the hull through pissers.

In my last couple of pictures, I have the manifold mounted to the cylinder, and as your can see there is some obstruction caused by the manifold. I'd hate to start grinding on the new manifold, but feel like I may need to, just worried about hitting the water jacket of the manifold... guess I am looking for some assurance :wiggle:

Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. :biggthumpup:

-Andrew

 

[QJS]

Its impossible to say whether the cylinder is off or the manifold but you will need to match them, you should be able to measure close enough to tell if you will run into the water jacket but I would think it would be made with enough material to allow for some matching its pretty standard to have to do this. As for the cooling I'm sure the manufacturers of the pipe are the best people to help.
Chris.

 

[yamanube]

I think you want both of the inbound lines going into the manifold, one of the ones off the head goes into the first fitting on the chamber(maybe T that one and also run it overboard) the other would go overboard and probably T that and run it into the end of that connector pipe. Just my opinion, talking to the manufacturer would be your best bet.

 

[tricky1]

here is one solution to dry pipe manifold water flow issues.

 

[Roo]

here is one solution to dry pipe manifold water flow issues.

The channel for water to flow through your referring to?

Sorry if this is an obvious question, just verifying.

 

[tricky1]

The channel for water to flow through your referring to?

Sorry if this is an obvious question, just verifying.

yes

 

[RiverRat]

I would definatly grind your manifold to match your exhaust ports. Every little bit helps. I am taking my cylinder to the machine shop to have water groves cut into my lamey as Tricky1 illustrated. Not a difficult job.

Also, Take some time and fabricate a good mounting system to keep that chamber in place. You dont want that $1300 sysetm to get damaged.

If you don't already have one I would highly reccomend a quality water line strainer to filter the water. You don't want to be filling up your water jacket with sand/debris.

 

[RiverRat]

What are the specifics on your set up? Ignition, carbs, jetting etc.?

 

[Roo]

Errr, I don't want want to dump any more money into this damn cylinder. I want to pick up a Billet Cylinder eventually! Just got it back from Lehr Performance for the 'tune up'.

RiverRat, You ran your setup without doing the machining, correct? How was your routing. Feel free to molest the picture I posted with it layed out on my table.

RiverRat, check PM.

 

[RiverRat]

Errr, I don't want want to dump any more money into this damn cylinder. I want to pick up a Billet Cylinder eventually! Just got it back from Lehr Performance for the 'tune up'.

RiverRat, You ran your setup without doing the machining, correct? How was your routing. Feel free to molest the picture I posted with it layed out on my table.

RiverRat, check PM.

I did, but it was not ideal. I would not reccomend running it with out doing the cylinder mod. Otherwise you will have water in the cylinder jacket all the time. I prefer that the jacket drain when you pull the ski from the water. Example, if you run it in daytona and then trailer it home it could freeze up and crack something.......possibly. Also, if you suck up sand you can fill up your cylinder water jacket with debris and you wont be able to get it out.

 

[waxhead]

How are you guys with this pipe goign to stop water running back down into the exhaust port when you sit it on the beach witht eh nose up the beach
It seems to me that water has a clear flow back to your engine
This is why normal pipes have the loop in them to stop this happening
I just see it costing people cranks

 

[RiverRat]

How are you guys with this pipe goign to stop water running back down into the exhaust port when you sit it on the beach witht eh nose up the beach
It seems to me that water has a clear flow back to your engine
This is why normal pipes have the loop in them to stop this happening
I just see it costing people cranks

The resonator has a water trap in it, but you are right. When it is not in the water running it needs to be out and elevated. I am flatwater guy so that is not much of a concern for me.

 

[waxhead]

Thats the reason i will not be buying one
I see it as being an ongoing expense if your a surf rider

 

[THRUST]

i would put an exhaust flap to help prevent it . but we have not had to many issues if you take care of how you handle the ski . plus the resonator chamber helps to slow this down as well . when i beach i would say it needs to go on a stand and to clear it out everytime .

 

[Roo]

I did, but it was not ideal. I would not reccomend running it with out doing the cylinder mod. Otherwise you will have water in the cylinder jacket all the time. I prefer that the jacket drain when you pull the ski from the water. Example, if you run it in daytona and then trailer it home it could freeze up and crack something.......possibly. Also, if you suck up sand you can fill up your cylinder water jacket with debris and you wont be able to get it out.

I disagree with this. Water will just flow through the bottom cylinder port. Even the side ports which in its current state, would not be used, the water would run down to the bottom port. I just sat and studied the cylinder pretty hard - no way is this going to happen.

 

[Roo]

How are you guys with this pipe goign to stop water running back down into the exhaust port when you sit it on the beach witht eh nose up the beach
It seems to me that water has a clear flow back to your engine
This is why normal pipes have the loop in them to stop this happening
I just see it costing people cranks

This is one of my biggest concerns and I am always thinking about it.

I do flatwater only and pull my sky out of the water even when just relaxing for a minute (custom beach cart).

I will probably end up doing some kind of flapper like the older Kawi's... Also though of maybe in inline flapper valve, kinda like a sump pump/scupper one. Only problem is finding one big enough and that can with stand the heat.

 

[waxhead]

Yeah its a question that i think the answer will show up in time

 

[GIL]

Errr, I don't want want to dump any more money into this damn cylinder. I want to pick up a Billet Cylinder eventually! Just got it back from Lehr Performance for the 'tune up'.

RiverRat, You ran your setup without doing the machining, correct? How was your routing. Feel free to molest the picture I posted with it layed out on my table.

RiverRat, check PM.

What did u have done?

 

[Roo]

What did u have done?

Bore, hone, and powervalve giotines machined.

Nothing crazy. Waiting on my crank for the rebuild... Crankworks has had it for almost two months now... taking there sweet ol' time.

 

[GIL]

Bore, hone, and powervalve giotines machined.

Nothing crazy. Waiting on my crank for the rebuild... Crankworks has had it for almost two months now... taking there sweet ol' time.

gotcha. I just had my cylinders honed as well, how many gallons of fuel did u go b4 top end and how many gallons on crank b4 rebuild.

btw-I would probaly add a lil more chamfer on port edges to prevent ring snagging.