engine/pump shimming questions

[meatball]

The one thing I dont fully understand.

When shimming the motor I remove the coupler rubber pad and put the motor in and grab a straight-edge and check to see if the surfaces of each coupler are aligned to each other right?

Any better way of doing this?

How do I shim the pump? I have a pump that I lost the shims to and have no idea what needs shimming, but that it does.

How do I shim the midshaft? Does it need to be shimmed?

Basically, I wanna know how to shim all driveline components.

-Kevin

 

[superjetnj]

shimming

I assume your working on a SJ, and the answer is yes, shims everywhere, no experience starting from scratch, I'd guess start with no shims in the mid shaft and pump, try aligning the motor, if no luck shim pump and loosen mid shaft and shim as necessary to align. My 2 cents

 

[oxnard111]

1) With both the engine and midshaft removed install pump with bolts snug, but not super tight. Look inside the engine compartment at the drive shaft sticking through the hole. Your goal here is to get that drive shaft to be as dead center in the hole as possible. You do this by adding shims to the two rear mounts of the pump. Never add shims to the front two mounting points of the pump. Once the shaft is a dead center as possible, install the pump with all cooling lines. Your done in the pump area.

2) Slide the midshaft onto the drive shaft. Push it as far on as possible. If there are any gaps between the mid shaft and the bulk head, add shims to each side accordingly to fill up the gaps. Because there are no bolts installed there will some gappage no matter how hard you press it on by hand. If there is an even gap all the way around the mid shaft, then no shims are necessary. Once gaps have been filled by shims, bolt the mid shaft on.

3) Next is the engine. Slide the engine into place WITHOUT the rubber damper. The first stage here is to try to get the engine height figured out. Left and right alignment is negligible at this point. You want to add shims accordingly to each mount so that you can take a card and place it on the top of both couplers and have that card sit even.

Once you have that figured out, remember or mark the position of the shims, pull the engine forward, slide in the rubber damper, add your shims back, and just barely snug each engine mount bolt. You'll now twist the engine so that when you place a card on the sides of the couplers, the card will sit flush on both sides. You can also use a variety of measuring tools to determine whether each side is aligned properly instead of a card. Between each movement remember to snug atleast one bolt back down before you let go of the engine, otherwise you'll just loose the amount you have moved the engine. Once left and right alignment has been figured out, torque down all your bolts.

4) You're done. Drink a beer. And remember you should have installed all these bolts with anti-seize.

 

[junkyardj]

what do you mean by a card?

 

[steel horse]

playin card, poker card....

 

[leprechaunjohn]

great guide oxnard111

 

[oxnard111]

what do you mean by a card?

i usually use a credit card.

 

[sportfish258]

4) You're done. Drink a beer. And remember you should have installed all these bolts with anti-seize.

I just had to break off three motor mount bolts because someone did not use anti seize. People who don't use anti seize on critical areas prone to corrosion should be thrown in prison and gang raped !

 

[orangefinger]

wow, i have been lucky so far, everytime i removed an engine i market the shims and everythin seemed to be ligning up again right later..

 

[227]

Damn Oxnard that was the best explaination on how to shim I've ever heard. Makes sense and easy to follow Thanks!

 

[doitone]

can I shim my pump with out removing the midshaft? If so how?

 

[bigo]

thats a no.

 

[kevbo]

Make sure the anti-seize is zinc based. Pipe thread sealant is actually better.

 

[oxnard111]

can I shim my pump with out removing the midshaft? If so how?

you kinda can... if your motor and mid shaft were no removed, and lets say you pulled your pump but forgot to mark you shims... you can insert the pump, snug down the front two pump bolts, and there will be either no gap between the back to mounting tabs and the hull or if there is a cap, make up for that space with some shims...

best to do it the right way, but you can kinda get by this way.

 

[DangerBoy]

Damn Oxnard that was the best explaination on how to shim I've ever heard. Makes sense and easy to follow Thanks!

hmmm wonder where he learned that :buttkick:

 

[oxnard111]

hmmm wonder where he learned that :buttkick:

from the MAN himself...

BTW, I give credit to DB for all the shimming advice... haha :dance:

 

[kawyjunki]

Thats the best description I have heard/seen. Can post #3 be put into the TECH FAQ, or Sticky it.:fing02:

 

[junkyardj]

got ya on the card, great instructions ill be doing mine soon and i didnt know how to shim a pump so this was a good read

 

[Philip Clemmons]

1)

2) Slide the midshaft onto the drive shaft. Push it as far on as possible. If there are any gaps between the mid shaft and the bulk head, add shims to each side accordingly to fill up the gaps. Because there are no bolts installed there will some gappage no matter how hard you press it on by hand. If there is an even gap all the way around the mid shaft, then no shims are necessary. Once gaps have been filled by shims, bolt the mid shaft on.

Got a question on this.....................If you shim the gap, doesnt that impair the ability of the seal to compress to the hull? If you shim the contact area, that would allow even seal compression around the diameter of the seal.

Got a new hull I am fighting right now with this issue...........needed .100" on the rear of the pump, but the ds is perfect in the hole. Wonder if shimming the front would have the same result, but change the pump angle?

 

[jMike]

So one could check alignment by putting the card on there at anytime to make sure everything is still square.. nice