I just set up my Pro-Tec Raider nozzle on my Super Jet and thought I'd show some pics of the process. As is, the Pro-Tec nozzle doesn't have that much throw so I ground the trim ring and turn nozzle slightly to maximize throw in all directions. I ground down these area's on the trim ring even more than shown here and the 'U' shape in the turn nozzle plus that sharp corner right down:
If you want your nozzle to stay straight and not turn as you trim it up, then the ball for the steering cable must be on the same axis as the trim pivot. So the ball has to be mounted on top. I also tapped a hole closer to the nozzle, again for more throw:
In order for the cable to have an unobstructed path to that location, you have to cut off the factory water fitting:
I chose to weld up the hole and retap a 90° brass fitting further up out of the way. Now there is lots of room for the steering cable:
I ended up making a custom braket for the trim cable mount. This allows the trim to go up further with 27mm of travel using a new cable end mount drilled closer for more travel. You can also see most of the turn nozzle grinds for more clearance in this pic:
I tapped the cable barrel adjuster at a slight angle to line up with the cable. All turn nozzle grinding is visible here. I also welded the nozzle end back on for full length:
I chose to make an adjustable nozzle stop with a return spring so the cable would stay on when pulling the lever on the trailer since everyone who sees a lever needs to pull it :silly:. It's just a light spring so the additional force to pull the lever is negligiable:
I trimmed the rear lip and the corners off the pump cavity so the nozzle would clear in any possible combo of turning and triming:
An added bonus is more turn throw than before too:
By measuring the travel of the lever and matching it to the trim cable mounting point, I got the lever to be fully out for 0° and just touching the bar at full up trim, just prior to mechanical binding. It works great!
If you want your nozzle to stay straight and not turn as you trim it up, then the ball for the steering cable must be on the same axis as the trim pivot. So the ball has to be mounted on top. I also tapped a hole closer to the nozzle, again for more throw:
In order for the cable to have an unobstructed path to that location, you have to cut off the factory water fitting:
I chose to weld up the hole and retap a 90° brass fitting further up out of the way. Now there is lots of room for the steering cable:
I ended up making a custom braket for the trim cable mount. This allows the trim to go up further with 27mm of travel using a new cable end mount drilled closer for more travel. You can also see most of the turn nozzle grinds for more clearance in this pic:
I tapped the cable barrel adjuster at a slight angle to line up with the cable. All turn nozzle grinding is visible here. I also welded the nozzle end back on for full length:
I chose to make an adjustable nozzle stop with a return spring so the cable would stay on when pulling the lever on the trailer since everyone who sees a lever needs to pull it :silly:. It's just a light spring so the additional force to pull the lever is negligiable:
I trimmed the rear lip and the corners off the pump cavity so the nozzle would clear in any possible combo of turning and triming:
An added bonus is more turn throw than before too:
By measuring the travel of the lever and matching it to the trim cable mounting point, I got the lever to be fully out for 0° and just touching the bar at full up trim, just prior to mechanical binding. It works great!