Let's talk paint

Let's talk paint, from low dollar to not so low dollar.

On the low dollar side, I've seen a few people who have used the rustoleum epoxy appliance paint. Anybody have experience with this to share?

Then as a step up I see some reference to the valspar tractor paint with hardener (sprayed from a spray gun). Anybody have experience with this to share?

Then there is always the "spend a little more money and get real paint" crowd whenever either of the above are mentioned. Sooo....what is the "real paint for a little more" that anybody can recommend?

Also are there any things to watch for like paint that is chemically compatible with smc, or polyester resin, or epoxy resin. Or concerns about flexibility maybe additives to add for that purpose?

Similiar question about primer, anything to watch out for as far as chemical compatibility with the materials our hulls are made from, or flexibility, or whatever else that I'm not thinking of?
 
After 36 years of painting ,and winning awards for best paint the last 6 I’ve used it . Let’s just say I can paint


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schicks

Karma Enforcer
I typically use awlgrip, its seems to be a good marine paint. All paint seems to be getting more expensive lately. ,I used imron a long time ago, holds up the best, very very tough paint, doesnt scratch. However, its very expensive to get in different colors. Good prep work is key to getting paint to stick, if you paint over crap youre gunna get crap not matter what you use. Junk is rustoleum, sucks getting all that off to repaint correctly.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
I’ve used appliance paint on the bottom of my old superjet. It holds up marginally better than regular rustileum. It’s easy to touch up, so that’s a plus. It’s definitely not the “amazing paint on the cheap” solution many people claim it is.
 
After 36 years of painting ,and winning awards for best paint the last 6 I’ve used it . Let’s just say I can paint


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Sounds good. So what is the reason for choosing what you suggested. I'm not looking to win any awards I'm going to start with a janky square nose and work my way up to things I care about a little more. I suspect it's a little overkill for my needs but I'm interested in info.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Almost forgot, I also painted my SJ top half with hot rod flatz from TCP global. I used the single stage and it held up really well for two seasons before I sold the ski. Not too pricey and decent satin/flat catalyzed paint. Flat paint hides body work imperfections nicely and is a unique look for a jet ski
 
I typically use awlgrip, its seems to be a good marine paint. All paint seems to be getting more expensive lately. ,I used imron a long time ago, holds up the best, very very tough paint, doesnt scratch. However, its very expensive to get in different colors. Good prep work is key to getting paint to stick, if you paint over crap youre gunna get crap not matter what you use. Junk is rustoleum, sucks getting all that off to repaint correctly.

Imron is tough paint. When I was researching the paint issue, I read somewhere that both Kawasaki and Yamaha used Imron on their the jet skis. Makes sense, my 1977 Corvette was painted with Imron, so it would seem to work well with fiberglass. From what I have read you need to be on your game to apply Imron, I am a very inexperienced spray painter and I think I will invest in a supplied air respirator before I try it. In the meantime, I will continue to gain experience with Valspar Tractor & Implement paint but I too am open to suggestions.

For instance, what do you guys think about Ipifanes 2-part polyurethane? It seems popular in the DIY boat world.

I am thinking about painting the hull with flat paint, because there are some posts by Jeff Jacobs that say once you "true" your hull, you should not paint it.

But because the hull on my wife's X2 is gouged and scratched, I will have to "fair" it substantially with epoxy fairing filler while I true it and it seems that only paint (and a flat paint is what I am thinking) will make the thing look decent after the amount of fairing which will be required. What do you guys think?

Great topic, btw.
 
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I use urethane basecoats from custom shop on tpc global. It’s not top of the line paint, but it looks decent. Spray guns also make a world of difference in application. I use a devilbis gti pro lite for base and clear. From what I’ve seen on all of the projects I have painted, it’s still all in the prep, mixing and application. You can also fix quite a but of orange peel issues in your clear after its hardened through wet sanding and buffing. If this is your first time painting yourself, I would probably stay away from high dollar paints and get the practice in first with a cheap gun and affordable 2 part paint. Will you be doing this in a downdraft paint booth of some sort with proper equipment?
 
I have used a product called "motospray GMH black". It's a single part nitrocellulose lacquer. It is available in Australia and is aimed at using as a chassis paint. It is satin or flat off the gun and can polish up to a nice gloss after applying a few good coats. It's cheap as poop and holds up ok for the surf ski business. Looks badass in my opinion. I came across it at the paint shop looking for a flat hot rod black for my street truck. I used it and was easy to spray for a novice and looked good off the gun. I have used it on another 2 vehicles and 2 jetskis used in salt water exclusively.

I would recommend it for the gangsta look. Lol. But a word of caution, if you wash your ski with wash n wax type soap it stuffs up the matte finish, the wax part. Just wash with cheap detergent!
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
I used Dupont Nason Series Single Stage Urethane. This is basically their dump truck line of paint. It was always very durable. Hope I never paint a ski again!!!!!!!!!!
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Rustoline marine top side. 16$ per pint on amazon, lots of colors. Roll and tip method works well and so far so good after a trip to the surf and multiple loading and unloading on the bunks. Also easy to touch up.
 
I like epifanes... very scratch resistant. A little pricey but worth the money in my opinion. It's about $55 per 750ml. The gloss white in my experience is fantastically close to spot on oem. Roll tip or thin and spray, works great.
 
What's with the roll tip? Does it really make a better finish than just a brush or roller? I ask because my steel yacht is up for a topside coat and can't spray where it is.
 
I used Dupont Nason Series Single Stage Urethane. This is basically their dump truck line of paint. It was always very durable. Hope I never paint a ski again!!!!!!!!!!
That nason is good stuff. I painted my jeep and ski with products from the coating store. It sprayed nice and has held up very well.
 
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