Shaft binding after pump rebuild, plus tips & lessons

Caliper readings. Posting these for reference more than anything. Though if anyone has something to compare against, let me know if something’s not right.


42.05mm Solas hub ID
42.10mm OEM hub ID
24.94mm shaft OD where washer sits

41.99mm washer OD
20.67mm washer ID
25.11mm washer notch ID
5.01mm washer thickness
3.38mm washer notch depth
 
Also note, that if the Washer is not flat and perpendicular to the Shaft, it can bind with tremendous force.

This odd feature, a non-perpendicular Washer, is used to keep Pipe Jack Stand Tubes in place and can hold an amazing amount of weight.

The non-perpendicular Washer in a Pipe Jack Stand is called a Lock Washer. It is virtually impossible to move the Jack Tube down without first making the Washer perpendicular to the Shaft. Then it will slide.

Pipe Jack Stand.jpgPUP on Jack Stands.jpg
 

eastcoastjumper

James
Site Supporter
I have assembled a dozen solas 144 and 148 pumps and have never used the oem washer behind the prop. I have always used aftermarket washers. The oem washer with the rubber binds and rubs against the seals, or bottoms out like youre experiencing and locks up the pump.

Also with fresh seals the shaft isnt going to spin fast without resistance. What you're feeling is normal.

Get a few different thickness washers from jetmaniac and reinstall your impeller.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 
Last time I screwed the impeller down, the washer was seated too tight to pry out any other way.

So will excess pressure on the seals from an improperly fitting washer lock up the shaft?


"IF" the spacer washer is hitting the seals, Your seals are not fully seated.....
 
Thanks for all of this! It has been a few years and I forgot how these dang things come apart and go together!
 
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