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That would hurt.

I can see how someone could F this up. Its just a generic install instruction for all pistons. Figure 3 is incorrect for our pistons. Pro-X is assuming you can see the semi circular notch on the ring ends and are smart enough (no disrespect) to align that with the pins in the ring groove. So...

The cascade lacrosse helmets are very nice, I have been meaning to pick up a cpx-r on a local used site, just been lazy lately. I cracked my head a few times on the bond rail and hood attempting rolls. I won't try it again until I get the helmet. http://www.cascadehelmets.com/CPX-R

That thing is embarrassing.

I would go to pwctoday.com for Vintage Kawi stuff.

I wouldn't do anything until you get that 650 in it. No sense paying twice for parts/upgrades.

You can find Tygon fuel line locally at an auto or powersports store. Or get Jetmaniac/Thrust OEM equivalent line. Ditch the selector, most others will agree. Replace the filter/filters as well.

Jet surf boards http://www.jet-surf.com/en/

I restored the plastic fairings on a motorcycle with an equal mix of Boiled Linseed Oil and Acetone.

You mean the steel tubing with holes? Just go chop a street sign down.

Worked great, but I always used ratchet straps on the rear of the skis to hold them down. So the bracket was only put under strain while pulling the skis up the boat launch.

This is the only pic I could find of my old setup. I welded a horizontal cross bar on to the stem. Then welded on a vertical piece at each end for the stolz stop to bolt too. Also shows a bit of the carpeted bunks.

You could use outdoor carpet from a carpet supplier. I used some for my old double trailer. It worked great, just make sure to use stainless staples. I bought a yard for about $10. I think it was 80" wide.

Do you know if that ADA is shorter than the UMI plate?

$500 - $600 for above.

Potentially. Crank, 2 pistons, 2 bores, one dome, gaskets and seals.

Looks like a crank bearing went.

Some like to go parallel like @Harbor some like true dual. I preferred true dual because its a bit of insurance. I run my B-pipe now with true dual for the same reason. Both have pros and cons like Harbor said.

I would run dual cooling with that pipe, it makes heat. Both to the manifold, tap the other side of it. Front of head to pisser, rear of head to bottom of chamber near coupler.

I actually think that a flow control valve that was adjustable to turn off at a certain pressure would be helpful here. It could eliminate water injection modules for simple cases.