Installed hooker...now cavitating?

Installed a Hooker 9/15 in my superjet and now I have cavitation issues...Pump "stuffing" was installed in the correct direction and everything was sealed. Only thing I changed other than that was my ride plate...it used to have an extended carbon fiber ride plate...I installed a protec ride plate that is about the same length as stock.

It has a work top loader intake grate in good shape. Wear ring is in good shape as well....Is there something I am missing?

Is there a certain setup with these that works better than others? It mainly just did it when I stabbed it on take off...once I got going it hooked up great. Any input is appreciated!
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Installed a Hooker 9/15 in my superjet and now I have cavitation issues...Pump "stuffing" was installed in the correct direction and everything was sealed. Only thing I changed other than that was my ride plate...it used to have an extended carbon fiber ride plate...I installed a protec ride plate that is about the same length as stock.

It has a work top loader intake grate in good shape. Wear ring is in good shape as well....Is there something I am missing?

Is there a certain setup with these that works better than others? It mainly just did it when I stabbed it on take off...once I got going it hooked up great. Any input is appreciated!

Pop your ride plate off. loosen the for pump bolts, push the pump forward. The seal may not have sealed. I need to do this to mine. My seal is 14 years old now. As they get older you have to put more pressure on them.
 

Don 79 TA

Still Fat....
make sure you put the packing seal in (as its called)
i run that prop on my setup i personally don't feel cavitation or slippage much at all, but everyone's riding style and setup are different
 
was it cavitating on the old prop?

Nope..not one bit...old prop was pitched very high

What is "pump stuffing"?

The correct term for that seal is something weird...stuffing or packing...either way it should just be called a pump seal. But if I would have called it a pump seal, some smartazz would have come through and told me the correct name for it. Figured I would try to cover that.

Pop your ride plate off. loosen the for pump bolts, push the pump forward. The seal may not have sealed. I need to do this to mine. My seal is 14 years old now. As they get older you have to put more pressure on them.

Will do! Thanks

make sure you put the packing seal in (as its called)
i run that prop on my setup i personally don't feel cavitation or slippage much at all, but everyone's riding style and setup are different

I am going to pull the pump back off and see whats going on..it may just not have sealed good. Hopefully thats all.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
what size nozzle are you running? do you have a shorty pump cone?

I had some cavitation issues with low pitched impellers ( concords not hookers) with large bored redution nozzles, combined with a shorty ( wet wolf) pump cone.

its possible that you are simply making enough power to spin the impeller right out of the hole.
this is likely why impros recommends differing pitches for differing engine setups.
 
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If you chose the 9/15 then I ASSUME you have a stock or mild engine setup. Even though the oem pump seal (that rubber round thingy) is in place you could still have an air leak. We got into the habbit of putting silicon on the seal itself to help with any issue existing or caused by dissaymbly and reasymbly.
 
Shine a light into the pump from the intake side, should help the search for any leaks.

Will do!

what size nozzle are you running? do you have a shorty pump cone?

I had some cavitation issues with low pitched impellers ( concords not hookers) with large bored redution nozzles, combined with a shorty ( wet wolf) pump cone.

its possible that you are simply making enough power to spin the impeller right out of the hole.
this is likely why impros recommends differing pitches for differing engine setups.

Running stock pump nozzle and stock pump cone. I was planning on going with a TBM pump cone and different nozzle soon..but I don't have any experience with these sorts of mods. Any recommendations?

Motor: Full 62t, bored bpipe, 175 psi and MSD enhancers...so not stock but nothing crazy.

If you chose the 9/15 then I ASSUME you have a stock or mild engine setup. Even though the oem pump seal (that rubber round thingy) is in place you could still have an air leak. We got into the habbit of putting silicon on the seal itself to help with any issue existing or caused by dissaymbly and reasymbly.

I used Silicone as well but there is a chance something just may not have sealed right. The old seal was trashed so I used one I had laying around..I didn't look at it too closely since it had come out of a ski that had issues...chance it could have been compromised. I will pull it all off and if necessary replace it.

Thanks again guys!


If anyone else has recommendations that may help(such as different nozzle) please speak up. I have a protec nozzle sitting around but im not sure whats up with it..came off a ski I parted out.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
My experience with the protec nozzle was that it cavitated right off of the bottom, but after that it had increased thrust on the bottom end, so it was worth it to me.

its a mix n match game between nozzle bore size, short cone, and impeller pitch at that point.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Motor: Full 62t, bored bpipe, 175 psi and MSD enhancers...so not stock but nothing crazy.

You shouldn't have any cavitation issues with that setup. I run more than that with a stubby cone and a big taper bored nozzle and my engine has instant snap with both top loader grates and wide open grates. You've got to have an air leak that's causing this. Maybe it's as simple as you pinched the pump seal or it didn't seat quite right. I'm not a big fan of using silicone on the pump seal for the sole reason that when you remove the pump, you need to be really anal when removing the silicone because a dried up piece of silicone is an invitation for problems.
 
You shouldn't have any cavitation issues with that setup. I run more than that with a stubby cone and a big taper bored nozzle and my engine has instant snap with both top loader grates and wide open grates. You've got to have an air leak that's causing this. Maybe it's as simple as you pinched the pump seal or it didn't seat quite right. I'm not a big fan of using silicone on the pump seal for the sole reason that when you remove the pump, you need to be really anal when removing the silicone because a dried up piece of silicone is an invitation for problems.

Thanks for the input. My motor responds great...and as I mentioned once I get going the impeller hooks up great...its just right off the bottom it cavitates... really sucks when you want extra thrust going up a wake. I have been lazy the past few days still recovering from the weekend...should get around to fixing the ski later this week.
 
Pulled the pump earlier.

Didn't see any real issues...I did however realize that I didn't put any silicone on the flat side of the seal facing the pump. I cleaned all the old silicone off and applied a nice bead to both sides. I mounted up just the wear ring and made sure everything was sealed using bright flashlight. Sealed up the pump and tighened all the bolts.

Also found out that the "worx' intake grate is actually an R&D. I installed my Worx to see if that makes any difference. Doubt it but you never know. Will find out this weekend!
 
It wasn't but is now.

I have been swapping out ride plates and when I installed this protec ride plate(which is from my old squarenose) I noticed there is a decent gap...probably 1/16th of an inch. I filled it in earlier and also sealed around the other gaps.

Why do you ask?
 
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