WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
I have searched and searched for some good rickter fs1 builds. Anyone point me in the right direction? Just looking for some tips and tricks. Thanks in advance fellas
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Surfriding Little help.
- Thread starter WILKEY
- Start date
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/121051-Okie-XFS-771-Build&highlight=
This one is pretty good. Ill be building one this weekend and I plan on doing a detailed build.
I know Taylor Curtis has something in the works as far as a Rickter Build Guide. It will include some video's and how to's for all the visual learners.
This one is pretty good. Ill be building one this weekend and I plan on doing a detailed build.
I know Taylor Curtis has something in the works as far as a Rickter Build Guide. It will include some video's and how to's for all the visual learners.
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WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
That would be amazing! I appreciate it man. Can't wait to see your build
- Location
- Down stream of Harrisburg, PA
So for those of us that haven't had to assemble a rickter- where does the difficulty come into play? I mean, how does it vary from say, a Superjet? Just curious.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
The adjustable motor mounting system is the only real PIA compaired to a reg SJ build. Motor alignment takes a bit longer. (buy plenty of shims.) Other then that is pretty strait forward and everything bolts right up for the most part.
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shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Wilkey I am no expert, but I have helped put mine together, then tore it down and put it back together again, so I got some practice on the fs....lol Hit me up if you have any questions.
you're building one this weekend? already?
Yeah! Well hopefully.
The hard and time consuming part is installing the pump shoe and getting the pump aligned perfectly. According to Taylor Curtis, this is where most people go wrong causing lots of vibration and stripped drive shafts. He said it takes him about 5 hours to install the pump shoe, drive shaft, and midshaft for the first time. This is where the most attention to detail must be given on a new hull to ensure longevity of your parts.
I don't have the patience to do this so I'm having Taylor do it for me... That is well of course if USPS delivers the pump and such that were suppose to be there 2 days ago. As far as the tracking goes... My package has been off the grid for a couple days. Who knows where it is?
From my understanding there are a couple small things that must be done when switching to a Rickter
- You need the longer Rickter RRP tubes, these are 28" tubes rather than the standard 23.5" tubes on the RRP pole
- You should use a SN steering cable as it's a little bit longer than the RN cable
- You use different bolts to attach your motor mounts to the hull, I think they were M8, can't remember the length. I think he said you need battery box bolts too, can't remember if they were longer or shorter.
- You need an internal fuel fill system
- You need to purchase a RRP ride plate
Aside from that, it should be a pretty easy transfer over from your current set up. At least thats what Im hoping for.
This is why Taylor is going to assemble some instructions and he's even selling a complete kit of everything you need to transfer your current set-up over to a Rickter. Its comforting knowing you have everything you need before you start to build.
Call me Crazy, I think Im going to be able to knock this build out in a day or two. I see people saying their builds took 8+ days. Im on a time schedule here! I want to ride and am only going to be in CA for a week. This is no winter build. It also helps I'm on "Thanks giving break" so I don't have work or school I need to worry about. I can spend all day doing to build and calling and bugging people to figure out how to do things.
The hard and time consuming part is installing the pump shoe and getting the pump aligned perfectly. According to Taylor Curtis, this is where most people go wrong causing lots of vibration and stripped drive shafts. He said it takes him about 5 hours to install the pump shoe, drive shaft, and midshaft for the first time. This is where the most attention to detail must be given on a new hull to ensure longevity of your parts.
I don't have the patience to do this so I'm having Taylor do it for me... That is well of course if USPS delivers the pump and such that were suppose to be there 2 days ago. As far as the tracking goes... My package has been off the grid for a couple days. Who knows where it is?
From my understanding there are a couple small things that must be done when switching to a Rickter
- You need the longer Rickter RRP tubes, these are 28" tubes rather than the standard 23.5" tubes on the RRP pole
- You should use a SN steering cable as it's a little bit longer than the RN cable
- You use different bolts to attach your motor mounts to the hull, I think they were M8, can't remember the length. I think he said you need battery box bolts too, can't remember if they were longer or shorter.
- You need an internal fuel fill system
- You need to purchase a RRP ride plate
Aside from that, it should be a pretty easy transfer over from your current set up. At least thats what Im hoping for.
This is why Taylor is going to assemble some instructions and he's even selling a complete kit of everything you need to transfer your current set-up over to a Rickter. Its comforting knowing you have everything you need before you start to build.
Call me Crazy, I think Im going to be able to knock this build out in a day or two. I see people saying their builds took 8+ days. Im on a time schedule here! I want to ride and am only going to be in CA for a week. This is no winter build. It also helps I'm on "Thanks giving break" so I don't have work or school I need to worry about. I can spend all day doing to build and calling and bugging people to figure out how to do things.
WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
Good info dudes thanks
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
when I did my FS1 it was just like building a superjet.....there wasnt much difference at all
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
i think you guys are confusing the difficulty of building a fr/s-2 and a fs-1.
the fr/s-2 has some tricks since the motor is setback.
the fs1 is really straight forward, like idok said. the motor is in the same position as a SJ. ebox goes in the same spot, midshaft- coupler length is the same, etc.
kurt hit the needs on the head. longer tubes are a must. the SN steering cable is needed for it is longer than the RN BUT, the throw is not as long as the RN. its .5 less IIRC. i would go with the Thrust Innov. extended RN cable. same throw, just longer. nice piece. i know the pump isnt setback on the fs1 like the fs2 so you will be able to route the steering cable on the side of the waterbox like normal.
your really going to want to get the Cold-Fusion Midshaft Spacer (http://cold-fusion.pinnaclecart.com/driveline/midshaft-spacer/) so your midshaft doesnt wear a ring in the firewall. since there is no recessed ring area, the midshaft will make one on your hull if you dont use the spacer.
the fs1 does not have adjustable motor mount plates like the fs2 so alignment shouldn't be very hard.
i would recommend either an new style xscream waterbox or the atp waterbox so you can route the breather tubes nicely and you can fit a piece of foam up there for added flotation.
if it hasnt been re-turfed, do it. very important. the stock fs1 turf is so slippery.
thats about all i can think of.
re-enforce it.
the fr/s-2 has some tricks since the motor is setback.
the fs1 is really straight forward, like idok said. the motor is in the same position as a SJ. ebox goes in the same spot, midshaft- coupler length is the same, etc.
kurt hit the needs on the head. longer tubes are a must. the SN steering cable is needed for it is longer than the RN BUT, the throw is not as long as the RN. its .5 less IIRC. i would go with the Thrust Innov. extended RN cable. same throw, just longer. nice piece. i know the pump isnt setback on the fs1 like the fs2 so you will be able to route the steering cable on the side of the waterbox like normal.
your really going to want to get the Cold-Fusion Midshaft Spacer (http://cold-fusion.pinnaclecart.com/driveline/midshaft-spacer/) so your midshaft doesnt wear a ring in the firewall. since there is no recessed ring area, the midshaft will make one on your hull if you dont use the spacer.
the fs1 does not have adjustable motor mount plates like the fs2 so alignment shouldn't be very hard.
i would recommend either an new style xscream waterbox or the atp waterbox so you can route the breather tubes nicely and you can fit a piece of foam up there for added flotation.
if it hasnt been re-turfed, do it. very important. the stock fs1 turf is so slippery.
thats about all i can think of.
re-enforce it.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/17913-Idok-s-ski-s/page2
here's some pix from my build.....(end of 2nd page)
this hull had grey primer sprayed all on the inside of the engine compartment......So, I ground that all out..filled the bondline with a recipe from Tem. THen put one layer of 17oz cloth dyed black + west systems
Painted the bottom with interlux bilgekote..good stuff, went on really nice. Then added the scupper blockoff with a modified fuel filler just so if it needed to float for a couple hours it wasnt an issue
for me the noserail is MUST...it sucked without it, wasnt any fun eating spray all the time..
and yes, the stock turf sucks.....needs HT and good padding
for the breather tubes I just slit them a few inches and the regular roundie cable worked just fine routed under the batt box and inbetween the engine mounts
here's some pix from my build.....(end of 2nd page)
this hull had grey primer sprayed all on the inside of the engine compartment......So, I ground that all out..filled the bondline with a recipe from Tem. THen put one layer of 17oz cloth dyed black + west systems
Painted the bottom with interlux bilgekote..good stuff, went on really nice. Then added the scupper blockoff with a modified fuel filler just so if it needed to float for a couple hours it wasnt an issue
for me the noserail is MUST...it sucked without it, wasnt any fun eating spray all the time..
and yes, the stock turf sucks.....needs HT and good padding
for the breather tubes I just slit them a few inches and the regular roundie cable worked just fine routed under the batt box and inbetween the engine mounts
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masterblaster
X-H2
some good info here wilkey..when ya gonna strart puttin that thing together...you got some pretty good turf skills,sounds like you should do that right off the bat also with some decent padding also.
youd think for what these cost RRP would have fig out how to install decent padding and actual hydo turf that works by now?
youd think for what these cost RRP would have fig out how to install decent padding and actual hydo turf that works by now?
WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
In gonna ride it a couple times to see where the strap will go.then returf it.
masterblaster
X-H2
when ya gonna start building it?
WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
Comes next week not sure when ill have time to start. Gonna be a slow process.
- Location
- Wilmington Nc
Who did you get one from? What did you get? Get that hip looked at? I'm gettn back surgery Monday so I'm down for the winter tryn to find a hull myself.
WILKEY
SO FAR CHANGE SUCKS!!!!!!
Got it from THRUST. It's a fs1. It's a start for now. Upgrade in a year or two. Hip will be ok for now. Got denied insurance for smoking to much. Oh well, I wait long enough Obama will insure me ill just have to go sit in a tanning bed for a couple days.....
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- Location
- Wilmington Nc
Yea that will do it shoot me some pics when you get it.
I just built the Evo in a short period of time, 2 days if you even want to call it that.. It was so painless I feel like I didn't even need to take pictures and make a build thread. I think build threads are fun when people have problems and they show their unique and creatives ways to get around it.
Honestly, it was like building my superjet all over again where a small hold up here and there. I was able to build the whole ski with a mechanics tool kit (mines ~300 pieces) but I did need to visit a friends to grind off the tabs on the water box / fuel tank hull tabs. I think an aftermarket water box would have been nice like Zach mentioned, they are a tad bit smaller and makes for a little better fit but stock works fine. I just ran out of money.
Im doing some pretty gnarly custom stuff on my ski so it's not 100 percent done yet but the basics are. Ill post some pictures and make a thread when Im done.
Honestly, it was like building my superjet all over again where a small hold up here and there. I was able to build the whole ski with a mechanics tool kit (mines ~300 pieces) but I did need to visit a friends to grind off the tabs on the water box / fuel tank hull tabs. I think an aftermarket water box would have been nice like Zach mentioned, they are a tad bit smaller and makes for a little better fit but stock works fine. I just ran out of money.
Im doing some pretty gnarly custom stuff on my ski so it's not 100 percent done yet but the basics are. Ill post some pictures and make a thread when Im done.