Pisser with 90 degree elbow inside hull??

[zimmy]

Are you able to make any of these for us? What do you think they would cost?

 

[Kny21]

Don't see why you couldn't cut the existing barb off and use something like this... if you can't find the correct metric size I'm sure you could find something close and tap to correct thread. Searching "female 90 to 3/8 barb" pulls up an array of plastic ones too.

 

[XJCrawler]

Are you able to make any of these for us? What do you think they would cost?

Could do a few to test and if there was enough interest after do a full production run

 

[zimmy]

Shot you a PM!

 

[DAG]

Ok I’ll give this a shot. Here’s the prototype I decided to make. I was shooting for something that didn’t require any special cutting or taping as most people probable don’t have a metric tap set at their disposal. This is a 1” dia alum sleeve that will screw overtop of your current ADA pisser replacing the nut that they come with. On the opposite side I taped M10x1.5 for a set screw. The idea for this was the ability to restrict water flow so you can keep your engine water temp at 120 degrees all year long. 90 degrees to the bottom I taped 1/8” NPT for a McMaster #5346K17 fitting. As all ADA pisser threads don’t have the lead-in starting at the same place you can use small spacer washers between the hull and the fitting to insure a 90 degree runout. This was pretty time consuming so probable not going to make them unless there was a lot of interest. I would have to make runs of 50 to be worth wile, but just wanted to give you guys some ideas.


I’m not a huge fan of how far they stick out (2 inches from hull). I could easily shrink another ½” but would require people to cut the current barb off the ADA fitting, leaving the threads but removing the flat. Style over convenience?

 

[zimmy]

I like both, haven't heard back from XJ on a price yet. I like this idea of being able to use the fitting that is already in place along with the added water restrictor, but like you mentioned, it might be a little long if you have to keep the barb in place, might be better with the barn trimmed so it is close to the side of the hull.

 

[DAG]

I like the idea of as low profile as possable. Here's a comparison photo to get an idea of how much could be cut down

 

[Wizards Powersports]

I like the idea of making it more low profile by cutting off the barb on the ADA fitting. I think most people have a hacksaw and file!

Adding the water screw is a great idea also. What about making it out of smaller OD round stock and running a stainless washer up front, to bring the size down a bit?

Good work though, I think there is a market for them.

 

[DAG]

Agree, a smaller OD would be aesthetically better. The limiting factor in regards to the OD is the 1/8” NPT. Because the threads are tapered they need some meat to bite into. Currently that wall is only 1/4" in thickness once its drilled for M12.



A work around this would to use a McMaster 53525K16 fitting. I could shrink the OD down to 5/8” and tap the far end where the water restrictor was going to go. And the overall length could be 1.25” Advantages, takes less time to make aka lower cost and all-round lower profile, also with the NPT at the end you can turn it in until its perfectly 90 degrees, aka no shim washers. Disadvantage no built in water restrictor

 

[madscientist]

http://www.rhaasproducts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3waywo

thread in your barbs and go

 

[Ducky]

http://www.rhaasproducts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3waywo

thread in your barbs and go

Its a cool product but its not as sleek as people like it, and you are stuck with that pisser pattern.

 

[XJCrawler]

I like both, haven't heard back from XJ on a price yet. I like this idea of being able to use the fitting that is already in place along with the added water restrictor, but like you mentioned, it might be a little long if you have to keep the barb in place, might be better with the barn trimmed so it is close to the side of the hull.

Was away for the past week, pm'd you back

 

[Vumad]

It's not going to work just cutting off your existing barb and tapping it for an npt fitting. Here's the pisser I quickly mead up, I have a much nicer head design on my laptop at home.

Are you trying to use an existing 90 or making a 90? I would assume the best thing to do is the remove the bard from the pisser and just extend the thread, then just have a 90 with the same thread as the lock nut that screws on to the outside. I guess if you are trying to use existing parts then going inside may be necessary but if making something it would seem like going outside would guve better flow.

 

[Vumad]

I'm sure you could just cut the barbs off a billet one, drill it out to the correct size and tap it to accept a 90 deg brass fitting.

Yeah that is an idea too! My question there is how much would the 3/8 line be further restricted by inserting the brass fitting inside the line. Might be ok if it was a 1/2 pisser I guess.

I was thinking more along the lines of a 2 part pisser, where the barb is removed, and it screws into a female thread on the 90 degree elbow that also keeps it tight against the hull. nice, low profile, it would make me happy!. I will take a look at what you have mentioned here too! Thanks for the feedback all.

There are premade options for going on the outside if you can find the riht sizes.

 

[OCD Solutions]

Those have been mentioned already but it was noted that the threads on the pisser are metric and hard to match up.

 

[ticega306]

i was bored so i modeled this quick on Solidworks. Dimensions are not all accurate but it gives a visual idea of what DAG is suggesting.

basically an adapter with mm threads on one end locking the pisser to the hull, and NPT threads on the other end to fit standard barbed fittings. if its made out of hex stock there would be place to get a wrench to it if needed.

 

[yamanube]

The problem with all of these is the threads on the pisser fittings is not NPT and sometimes of questionable tolerance, they also are not very long so depending on how thick your hull is, might not seal up very well. The best option is probably a completely new fitting that has female NPT threads that allow you to thread a 90* fitting into.

Simple sketch, no scale.

 

[DAG]

yup, to do it right it will take a completely new fitting. The problem is who's going to buy a $50-$60 fitting just to have the water line turn 90 degrees when a straight fitting is less than $10. I don't think volumes would get high enough to get the price down to what most people would be willing to pay just to have a "clean" look under the hood.

I hope i'm wrong. If someone could do a $20 fitting like @ticega306 has i'll buy 2http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?members/ticega306.3663/