VXSXH20
Sionis Industries
- Location
- Mid-Atlantic
-I am in the process of De-foaming whats left in my Octane hull, I know these Wammer/Polaris Hulls leak in water like Swiss cheese. However, I am going to need to put something back into the Hull Tray. It is going to be damn near impossible to seal up all the leaks, Knowing water will make its way back in... I need something that will not absorb the water. I plan on still running my drain plugs as well.
-I have heard of many options based on search after search. I know there are cheap alternatives compared to the mail order materials that come in 2 part pouring process.
I wanted some insight as to what is best for my application. Hopefully this thread can dial in someones decision making process a little easier.
The most common ways I have Seen or Read About are the following:
-The 2 part Poured Foam Method-Often the most expensive in material cost.
-The "Plastic" 38mm Ping Pong Ball Dry Fill, As well as the Ping Pong Ball Reinforced with 2 part Foam -Can be Expensive due to cost of Ping Pong Balls and Foam
-The Extruded Poly-Styrene Board ( Green or Pink ) available at Lowe's and Home Depot- Cheaper and Readily available -Cut to shape and Stuff In Place
: A note about the Poly Board-Must be Closed Cell material which will not absorb water-White Styrofoam is a waste as it will breakdown and absorb water.
-The "Great Stuff" Spray Can Foam Method-Not Advised as it is said that it will not dry completely and will still absorb water-Also costly if using a lot of cans.
-The Plastic Soda Bottle Method- The Cheapest I seen Yet, Still effective
-The Pneumatic Rubber Inner tube Method- Don't have much to describe other than that, I really haven't seen it done.
* I have not worked with 2 part foam and don't really know how much I would need, I don't have an issue using the foam as it seems it would be less time consuming after I re-glass my tray back together, and CAP or SEAL off my pump inserts and around the exhaust tube etc. But So far I have not seen anyone use my idea that I have been tossing around, I have heard that kayak makers use them...
-I am thinking about cutting up and packing a bunch of FOAM POOL NOODLES inside and closing it back up. They Don't absorb water that I know of and are pliable to fit curves and compress into the gunnels. Plus they should still allow for any water to still make its way down to the drains at the bottom most point of the rear Hull extensions. Please Advise If anyone has tried this method and has had a positive or negative experience. I really don't want to cut this thing back up in a year or 2. Thanks -JW
-I have heard of many options based on search after search. I know there are cheap alternatives compared to the mail order materials that come in 2 part pouring process.
I wanted some insight as to what is best for my application. Hopefully this thread can dial in someones decision making process a little easier.
The most common ways I have Seen or Read About are the following:
-The 2 part Poured Foam Method-Often the most expensive in material cost.
-The "Plastic" 38mm Ping Pong Ball Dry Fill, As well as the Ping Pong Ball Reinforced with 2 part Foam -Can be Expensive due to cost of Ping Pong Balls and Foam
-The Extruded Poly-Styrene Board ( Green or Pink ) available at Lowe's and Home Depot- Cheaper and Readily available -Cut to shape and Stuff In Place
: A note about the Poly Board-Must be Closed Cell material which will not absorb water-White Styrofoam is a waste as it will breakdown and absorb water.
-The "Great Stuff" Spray Can Foam Method-Not Advised as it is said that it will not dry completely and will still absorb water-Also costly if using a lot of cans.
-The Plastic Soda Bottle Method- The Cheapest I seen Yet, Still effective
-The Pneumatic Rubber Inner tube Method- Don't have much to describe other than that, I really haven't seen it done.
* I have not worked with 2 part foam and don't really know how much I would need, I don't have an issue using the foam as it seems it would be less time consuming after I re-glass my tray back together, and CAP or SEAL off my pump inserts and around the exhaust tube etc. But So far I have not seen anyone use my idea that I have been tossing around, I have heard that kayak makers use them...
-I am thinking about cutting up and packing a bunch of FOAM POOL NOODLES inside and closing it back up. They Don't absorb water that I know of and are pliable to fit curves and compress into the gunnels. Plus they should still allow for any water to still make its way down to the drains at the bottom most point of the rear Hull extensions. Please Advise If anyone has tried this method and has had a positive or negative experience. I really don't want to cut this thing back up in a year or 2. Thanks -JW
