My notes from a Mikuni seminar by Herb Kane

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
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Herb Kane is the guy behind the SBN carb, did most of the calibration (tuning, he called it calibration) for oem companies back then, and he gave a seminar back at the World Finals back in 95 or 96. Here are my notes off the SBN manual they handed us.

HP/10 = fuel flow required
110HP/10 = 11gph
H-series (regular SBN) = 35liters/hour = 9.24gph
I-series (Sea-doo) = 40liters/hour = ~110hp
(all of these are for 6000rpm, the fuel flow does increase fairly linearly above that)
smaller needle valve for high vibration (size doesn't matter really)
DF62 = 17gph

44's like total jets of 220-230 (low+high)
46's like 240
(these are for un-modified carbs only)

Anyway, that's what I have written. I wanted to save it for posterity since my manual is getting kinda dirty after sitting in the garage for 13 years now and the ink is fading.

Something else to add, if you are wondering if you're way off on jetting, close both low and high screws and take it out for a spin (you'll need a little throttle to get it started probably). That way, you're running on the fuel supplied by the jets only and will know pretty quickly if you're way off.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
this is probably a dumb question..
but sitting here ( at work) without the manual in front of me, or the carb cutaway pic.

how does closeing the adjustor screws make it run ONLY fuel thru the jets?

( not arguing, I am ASKING..)


I have been told ( and beleive) the same about the needle size... just small enough to NOT vibrate and leak..


Herb Kane is the guy behind the SBN carb, did most of the calibration (tuning, he called it calibration) for oem companies back then, and he gave a seminar back at the World Finals back in 95 or 96. Here are my notes off the SBN manual they handed us.



Anyway, that's what I have written. I wanted to save it for posterity since my manual is getting kinda dirty after sitting in the garage for 13 years now and the ink is fading.

Something else to add, if you are wondering if you're way off on jetting, close both low and high screws and take it out for a spin (you'll need a little throttle to get it started probably). That way, you're running on the fuel supplied by the jets only and will know pretty quickly if you're way off.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
EDIT.

I see now, the adjuster screws basically control the fuel thru a bypass in addition to the jet itself.




this is probably a dumb question..
but sitting here ( at work) without the manual in front of me, or the carb cutaway pic.

how does closeing the adjustor screws make it run ONLY fuel thru the jets?

( not arguing, I am ASKING..)



I have been told ( and beleive) the same about the needle size... just small enough to NOT vibrate and leak..
 

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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
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at peace
Darin, the fuel flow figures.....are those constrained by the fuel pump or constrained by the carb fuel flow?
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Darin, the fuel flow figures.....are those constrained by the fuel pump or constrained by the carb fuel flow?

I'd say the pump unless you have a carb with modded circuitry like the older Novis that I think limits flow.
 
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