Case question!

Not sure, LOL. I do know I want to keep it around 900 cc. Don't know if I want to go with stock stroke, oem crank, and bigger cylinders or stoker, A.M. crank and smaller cylinders. Also, not sure on top end power valves or no power valves.
So many options theses days :)
 

Roseand

Ready to RIP
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Not sure, LOL. I do know I want to keep it around 900 cc. Don't know if I want to go with stock stroke, oem crank, and bigger cylinders or stoker, A.M. crank and smaller cylinders. Also, not sure on top end power valves or no power valves.
So many options theses days :)
What's your budget?

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5K I don't want something i'm going to have to hone and bore and replace the crank in every other year, I want the reliability of oem. I have a 701 that has an ungodly amount of hours on it with the original crank, on the original bore with a nasty 90s race port job. When this thing goes I'm going to mount it on my garage wall, lol.
 

Roseand

Ready to RIP
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
5K I don't want something i'm going to have to hone and bore and replace the crank in every other year, I want the reliability of oem. I have a 701 that has an ungodly amount of hours on it with the original crank, on the original bore with a nasty 90s race port job. When this thing goes I'm going to mount it on my garage wall, lol.
You can get a billet, powervalve 967 stock stroke Engine tech short block for 3500$.

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5K I don't want something i'm going to have to hone and bore and replace the crank in every other year, I want the reliability of oem. I have a 701 that has an ungodly amount of hours on it with the original crank, on the original bore with a nasty 90s race port job. When this thing goes I'm going to mount it on my garage wall, lol.

Once you dump close to 5k into an engine, you don't take it apart because it needs it, you take it apart and replace parts as insurance. No one wants to lose a rod and have it saw a nice billet cylinder in half. It's called preventive maintenance. I ran 2 seasons on my dasa 1000, pulled apart, inspected and replaced top end bearings after one season. I was also burning close to 2 cases of oil a season.
 

Ducky

Back in the game!
Location
Charlotte, NC
If you want the reliability of OEM, you either need to stick with an OEM motor, or shell out the money necessary for new parts and have it properly assembled and tuned.
 
I go through a little more then a gallon of oil a year. I get the whole porventive matinance thing and agree. Just think internal parts shouldn't be wearing out in a year or two, but that's coming from a mildly tuned 701 bont know how these bigger motors hold up. I'm I wrong to think I can get more then a hundred or so hours out these bigger cc motor?
 
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