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this is the last project like this i am taking on... i think. i did it at 1% per others recommendation. didn't want the duratec geling up inside the HVLP gun. we'll try 2% on the top deck for kicks, and see if that makes a difference starting at 220. i had to much texture to go through, i would...

and scratching does not show? that is what i always wondered... scuff... wet sand scuff or dry?

i am a painting novice... because you have two coats of clear it on now, do you have to scuff it before you lay more down?

thanks for the tip - will make the switch sooner then :)

i am on 220 right now - i will finish that dry then make the switch to wet and report back.

paint is looking beautiful. can't wait to see it complete and on the water (bet you can't either!).

this...project...sucks...errr. must think positive... end result. can't wait to get the bottom done... once the mold is done and i can flip it over, i am confident the top will go a LOT faster. there is a STUPID amount of sanding in a project like this. when you think your done with a phase...

diggin' the out of the box thinking. i was thinking when i get to the top down portion of my hull build, i was going to mold the hood into the ski and create a lid like you did (XFS style). i am using a RRP Handlepole right now, but don't know if i want to rely on only it for fresh air for the...

true - after reading threads like this, it makes you do weird things...

You need to read this thread: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/9841-FX1-144mm-Bottom-Replacement study it well.

need...more...time. i have not been able to touch this all week like i had planned after work and won't tonight as it is my mothers bday. hope to wake up early in the AM Saturday and get the last of the duratec put down, so then hopefully sunday, finish the sanding / polishing. ugh, wish i...

Thanks Steve. Yes - still a LONG way to go. The top *should* be a lot faster, as I won't have to build the flange like I did on the bottom which was the most time consuming so far. For the top plug, I am going to leave the hull in the bottom mold, flip it over, then use the bottom mold flange...

Thanks for the comments guys! :beerchug: Time has been the biggest issue for me - this has all been done mostly on Saturday and Sunday mornings/afternoons. Last night I did the first pass on sanding the Duratec primer. Sanded through in quite a few spots which means two things: I did NOT...

Hull Plug Bottom Approach The hull that I am replicating is considered the "Plug" (I will use this term from here on out), from which I will pull the "Mold" off of. First thing is to "true" the Plug, as it had 2 years of abuse, lots of gouges, missing chunks, etc. All hardware had to be...

Workshop I do not have a garage (only a large shed in my backyard). Michigan winters are LONG and COLD. My basement was the best and only solution. I framed in a temporary room with 2"x4"s, and used painters clear plastic sheeting as the walls. I made sure to build this room in a location in...

Introduction Before I start, I have to give a big shout out and thanks to Gordon (Flash-FX). Without seeing his bottom hull build thread almost 5 years ago now, I would have never attempted this "madness". He has been my #1 resource and source for inspiration. A few things: Those who have...

hair spray as a mold release? hmmmm i would wax the mold many times, and use PVA as your release agent (moral of the story, if you are going through all this work... do it right).

more then likely vinyl ester resin.

you need to head over to: http://compositescentral.net/ for the rideplate, you need to figure out your target thickness. go to: http://uscomposites.com/ they list how thick one layer of cloth is. add up the amounts to get an idea of how much you might need. can't mix gelcoat / epoxy. do the...

Aaron - tell me more of this gas tank? How much to get me one!?