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Glad you figured that out. looking at the first pic that you posted of the carburetor, it appears that the butterfly might be worn along the shaft axis (ends). look a little closer at that. Worn butterflies that slide back and forth let air in the wrong place at idle.

The Boyesen manifolds were used on 1000 and 1200CC motors. Do You need that much intake volume on smaller CC motors?? Probably not. Here's what I did a few years back... To increase the velocity on my 2-SS865 motors with FS 48mm carbs (past tense), I epoxied the intake tracts full length with...

When is the carburetor too big?? Basically the tell tale indicator is a low pop off, because of a weak signal. Making things hard to tune for crisp response. Must resort to borderline tricks to fake out mismatched parts/pumps and over ported cylinders... Kevbo quote: "Im happy to take a small...

I think what Mikuni is referring to is that a condition can exist with stock style (high restriction) "air filters" and lower pop offs. It's like pulling the choke on throttle off deceleration. Too large of a carburetor(s) on a motor would do that. You end up tuning yourself in to a corner...

Pop off and the dead horse... And let's not forget about the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW! It's name says it all. It's for adjusting the IDLE MIXTURE. It's simple. Along with the idle speed stop, it's the first thing you should tune. If your ski has the wrong size pilot (L/S) jet and your pop-off is far...

When does the pop-off start?* It generally happens when the butterflies start to open and expose airflow past those little drilled metering holes, located above the closed butterfly. The lower the pop-off (richer), the easier it is to let more fuel flow. The higher the pop-off (leaner) the...

When I test/pop-off (dual carbs) my goal is to get them as close to identical as possible. On the bench, metering side cover off, and drained lines (you know this already). The actual pop-off is really just a hiss. Get them to start hissing at the same time. Gently press down on the front needle...

The UMI system uses big o-rings that seal out water for about a minute (sloppy weak design). Spend the extra loot and look into something like... https://www.thrustinnovations.com/product/1-thrust-innovations-ot-steering/ The over the pivot saves cutting the pole down. I spent more in...

From the pictures you took, the damage looks like impact damage. Probably when (at the factory) the assembler had the engine hanging from a chain swinging around, smacked that spot and "bruised" the fillet coat. It doesn't look like any major structural damage, just a crack to trap bilge sludge.

The last time I talked with Rick, (BTW a real nice and knowledgeable guy) was about a year ago to return my SS865 cylinder they had sitting around for over 2 years...waiting for sleeves. I sold that setup here on the X cheap to pay for some vet bills. (Not whining, just sayin). I've got some...

If so that's really sad. I need sleeves and pistons for my SS900 (hens teeth)

What's your secret on how to contact XScream? I'm a long standing customer of them (Bought 4 motors/cylinder kits from) and get a full mailbox when I call.

What difference in performance are you talking here? Just curious what it can do VS a regular old rebuild.

HD, do you recall what pitch 144 prop you have in that ski?

Since the dust has settled years ago, I found that the "B" pipe is good for a stock motor mod. The minute you start going bigger, use the PFP. The big problem with the PFP is that it isn't designed to fit with all the stock trimmings, 4.8 fuel thank, battery tray, ect. 97 SJ sums it up with...

I know this is a ancient thread, but how many of you are running the PFP on small bore motors? (701 and up). Or is every one still on the "B" pipe...

Looks like a traditional rear crank seal leak seizure. Pressure testing the crankcase (& looking for leaks) would be a good idea when you have a piston looking like this. Also running out of fuel like Kevbo mentioned is something to keep an eye on. Take a look at those 2 little basket filters...

By now, most of the X-2 nozzles out there are pretty well shot out. This thread is a general what to do to get things tightened up again. Some of the sizing will be custom for your own "degree of current wear". Basically, you first need to clean up the 2 big holes on the nozzle, making them...

Take a look at this build thread. It covers a lot about bonding to the hull & making attach points. There's a lot of details explained. & this hull is also for sale. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/phantom-resurrection.203319/

Bad reeds normally give a false rich condition. If everything else was good, the new reeds should clean & crispen things up. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk