120 horsepower question??????

LIVE2RIDE Powersports

LIVE2RIDE Powersports

Live & Die 2 Ride
Location
WorldWide
I bought a gp800 ski for the engine. I want to drop it into my fx-1. But now I’m having second thoughts. It needs new crank seals.I was going to leave it stock at around 120hp. What engine could I buy or build that’s equal to this, without all the horrible and expensive mods? I WANT SICK BOTTEM END….
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Call Art @ Jetworks and ask about his 4mm stroker package.
I think it might be what you're looking for.
 
thegoldenboy

thegoldenboy

RN Surgery... soon
Location
Toronto
Agreed with Matt. Get a 4mm crank for now and run it this year. See how you like it.

If you still need more bottom end send your topend out the following year, run 84mm slugs and a nice port job.

Its a good way to have a motor in stages.

If I'm correct you'll be around 745cc with a stock bore and 4mm crank. I didn't do the calculation, just approximated.
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Don't get hung up on HP numbers.

Instead, talk to reputable builders about what they have to offer.
You'll find HP numbers vary greatly depending on whom you talk to.
 
Superjetjim

Superjetjim

X-
Matt_E said:
Don't get hung up on HP numbers.
Click to expand...

Spot on Matt..

It’s little to do with HP (which is typically near peak RPM anyway) - its all about the BARP (or Torque in real terms) - is about the hit and how quick you reach the peak RPM not how much BHP the peak RPM generates. BHP is for high end speed and pulling tall props for max speed when racing. Torque is for launching out of the hole for maximum height or 'pop' off a wake (too much torque can actually be a pain when racing because you struggle to keep the ski in the water/hooked up!) The stroker motors provide greater torque by moving the crank pin further out from the centre of pivot (think leverage)

Hope this helps you some..:friday:
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Without getting too much off-track here: Talk to some builders that have good names (i.e., TeamScream, Jetworks, JSU, WatCon, etc).
Much better info than what you'll get here, for the most part.
 
WaveDemon

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
thegoldenboy said:
Agreed with Matt. Get a 4mm crank for now and run it this year. See how you like it.

If you still need more bottom end send your topend out the following year, run 84mm slugs and a nice port job.

Its a good way to have a motor in stages.

If I'm correct you'll be around 745cc with a stock bore and 4mm crank. I didn't do the calculation, just approximated.
Click to expand...
are you suggesting he drops in a 4 mil crank now and does port work next year?

it doesn't work that way.
 
F

FL-cracker

X-H2O
Location
old exit 72 Melbourne
Man, In that light weight package, you may just want some dual carbs, and freestyle porting... Another option would be to go with a flattop piston setup (stock stroke). I would prefer to use the Kawi Flattops, as they are much cheaper then the R@D's.... Flattops alone are said to provide +10%hp over domed pistons.

Just another thought, as stroker's can get quite expensive....

And Remember, you are not adding that extra 30lbs of weight of the 66E either.... Good choice for that little boat. IMHO
 
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