Super Jet 2000 Superjet Power/Electrical Issues - Need some help!

stredman

stredman

stredman
Location
Fargo, ND, then Chicago, now Louisiana...
I've been having a few issues with my motor and electrical parts. I've noticed a lack of power (almost like it's running on once cylinder). The first thing I did was rebuild the carb, and yes, I used an authentic Mikuni kit.

I also got that tingle in my fingers when touching parts of the tray in salt water. I opened up the e box and found it all corroded, so I sent the entire thing to John at JSS and had it rebuilt with new spark plug wires and everything. I have to say props to him, because it came back looking incredible.

Once I hooked it all back up (with help of some electrician friends - I can't solder), I noticed that I could hear the starter relay popping, but it wouldn't start. I charged the battery and it started, but then the kill switch quit working. I can only kill it by pulling the brown wires.

I decided to take it for a ride and it ran better than ever for the first half hour or so. Then it went back to feeling like it's missing or running only on one cylinder again. Is there an issue that would develop once the engine gets hot?

So - Any thoughts or ideas on all of these issues? Any help would be great!
 
Blastah'- FiveOh

Blastah'- FiveOh

Nuthin' But Salt...
Location
Ewa Beach, Oahu, Hawaii, FiveOh Land
I can relate to all of your symptoms. I ride in the salt 100% and it will play havoc on your electrics. I've had the intermittent power problems on different boats throughout the years and these are some of the things to check. Plus a Blaster that I picked up last year had three electrical problems in a row that were a huge nightmare...good luck.

1) Check the screw-on-tip of each plug and make sure its snug.
2) If you have the stock plug boots, junk them and get a set of MSD's with the crimps (Autoparts store).
a. Pull off the boots and gently grasp the wire strands individually with a needle nose.
b. Tug each strand. They may come out! Mine did on my Blaster last year yet they "looked" great!
c. Cut back the wires to fresh wire (beware of the green corrosion...bad sign) and re test...then install new boots.
3) One way fuel tank check valve...take it off an blow through it...should only blow through one side...if both...get new one. On install, follow the arrows molded on the valve to make sure you got it in the right direction.
4) That tingle you've felt is a live wire grounding itself. Go back and check all the connections including the Ebox...look carefully. Look for any return of the green corrosion.
a. Tip: Run the boat on the trailer/stand in a dark location and move the wires around...look for a spark
5) Starter problems: pull the pipe off and really go over those two wires leading to the starter. My blaster cable was so bad that only the salt corrosion was holding it in place.
6) Starting switch relay problems...dissassemble the start stop switch at the handlebar and go inch by inch along the 4 wires all the way back to the ebox.
7) The most elusive problem I ever found was the ground wire on a friendsJS 550 that bolted to the intake manifold. The wire was attached but inside the plastic butt connector the wires had disintegrated so it was just held in place by the plastic.
8) Finally, you may have a leaking head gasket...pull the plugs and look for water droplets on the plug. Also do a compression check and look for dribbles down the cylinder.
 
stredman

stredman

stredman
Location
Fargo, ND, then Chicago, now Louisiana...
Blastah'- FiveOh said:
I can relate to all of your symptoms. I ride in the salt 100% and it will play havoc on your electrics. I've had the intermittent power problems on different boats throughout the years and these are some of the things to check. Plus a Blaster that I picked up last year had three electrical problems in a row that were a huge nightmare...good luck.

1) Check the screw-on-tip of each plug and make sure its snug. - Done
2) If you have the stock plug boots, junk them and get a set of MSD's with the crimps (Autoparts store). - Brand New MSD Boots- Replaced as part of JSS E Box overhaul.
a. Pull off the boots and gently grasp the wire strands individually with a needle nose.
b. Tug each strand. They may come out! Mine did on my Blaster last year yet they "looked" great!
c. Cut back the wires to fresh wire (beware of the green corrosion...bad sign) and re test...then install new boots.
3) One way fuel tank check valve...take it off an blow through it...should only blow through one side...if both...get new one. On install, follow the arrows molded on the valve to make sure you got it in the right direction. Headed out to do this now.
4) That tingle you've felt is a live wire grounding itself. Go back and check all the connections including the Ebox...look carefully. Look for any return of the green corrosion. - I don't suspect anything in the E Box, but I'll check everything to and from it.
a. Tip: Run the boat on the trailer/stand in a dark location and move the wires around...look for a spark Will do this now as well
5) Starter problems: pull the pipe off and really go over those two wires leading to the starter. My blaster cable was so bad that only the salt corrosion was holding it in place. Going to to this after the first few items... waiting on replacement gaskets.
6) Starting switch relay problems...dissassemble the start stop switch at the handlebar and go inch by inch along the 4 wires all the way back to the ebox. Doing this now as well
7) The most elusive problem I ever found was the ground wire on a friendsJS 550 that bolted to the intake manifold. The wire was attached but inside the plastic butt connector the wires had disintegrated so it was just held in place by the plastic. [I]I'll take a look[/I]
8) Finally, you may have a leaking head gasket...pull the plugs and look for water droplets on the plug. Also do a compression check and look for dribbles down the cylinder. I have seen some water on the plugs... I've ordered a new head gasket. Where would I see dribbles in the cylinder? Remove the head?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great, detailed post!
 
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stredman

stredman

stredman
Location
Fargo, ND, then Chicago, now Louisiana...
Had some unexpected results... The good old-fashioned salt water spray bottle trick in a dark garage turned up sparks all over the rear spark plug wire. Should this be happening with brand new wires/boots/ebox? What's the next step?

The fuel check valve is for air only, correct? I have the return line running in to the 'ON" line on the tank, the supply line running through a filter to the carb from the "RES" line, and a check valve on the remaining line. Check valve was working.

No water on the plugs this time. Do I need to replace the O-Rings on a Riva Girdled head if I open it up? If so, any ideas on where to find replacements/

Thanks for the help so far.
 
stefan

stefan

Location
denmark
That spark wire spark happent too me as well with a brand new jss coil swappede too a norther coil and problem solt jss Will replace your coil
 
stredman

stredman

stredman
Location
Fargo, ND, then Chicago, now Louisiana...
badvinny said:
I dont see anywhere that you put in new plugs, if you havent you should,(I always do the simple stuff first!)
Click to expand...

Good point!

Once the stator is back from JSS, I'm going to replace it, along with my flywheel (given love by #Zero), and a new gasket and flywheel bolt. Do I need to do any cleaning in the flywheel housing? Do I need to re-grease the bendix?

I also have JSS doing their magic to my S/S Switch.

Once everything is back, I'm going to button it all up, dilectric grease everything, and route the wiring harnesses up along the lip of the hood opening. I'll replace the spark plugs (gapped down to .025), and fire it up. I'll also do a compression test at that time to see if there are any issues with leaks between cylinders.
 
JetManiac

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
crab said:
Use dilectric grease on the tip of the plugs. And reduce your gap to .025
Click to expand...

Good advice on the gap, but grease on the tip of the plugs isn't a good idea IMO. Why would you want an insulator between spark plug tip and spark plug terminal?

I degrease and dry the spark plug and always degrease/clean inside of msd boots/terminal, then install boots tight. Never a salt spark issue with them. If you were going to dielectric grease anywhere, then it would be on the outside of boot to wire or plugs.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
Dielectric grease will not conduct electricity. Coating the plug cap and inside of wire boot will create an environment that will not allow the spark to jump anywhere except where it is suppose to which is to the cap from the wire.
 
stredman

stredman

stredman
Location
Fargo, ND, then Chicago, now Louisiana...
I'm ready to lose my mind on this thing...

In fact, I tried to throw it in the lake, but it floated back to me.

Here's the latest:

Ebox was completely redone by JSS
Stator was redone by JSS
S/S Switch was redone by JSS
New plug wires, boots, etc. by JSS
New Pos. and Neg. Cables by JSS
Flywheel lightened and cleaned up by #Zero

I installed everything (including a coating of dielectric on plug boots, all bullet connectors, battery terminals, etc.), took it out, and it ran great - better than ever, in fact. Ran great for about 3 hours one day, then a couple hours again the next. The next time out we went for about 2 hours, then on the way to the beach, it just died, as if I had pulled the lanyard or hit the stop switch. It turned over, but I couldn't get it running again. I did notice I was getting a tingle when the bilge pump was on.

I brought it home, dried it out, and pulled the white/black wires apart. Checked for spark (good on both). It started and ran with no issues. I plugged the wires back in and it ran again with no issues. Out of curiosity, pulled the flywheel cover off to check for moisture. I found just a little bit of moisture (looked like condensation). I noticed that the bottom of the gasket had gotten kinked. I left the cover off for a day or two, then replaced the cover with a new gasket as well as 1211. Started it today and it ran great. I added a second ground wire from battery to flywheel cover (original from starter bolt to battery is also in place).

Took it to the water today, it fired right up, and while leaving the no wake zone, it died. Exactly like the last time. It would turn over, but never fire, as if the stop switch was being held down again. Pulled the black and white wires again, but no luck this time. I was also getting a hefty shock when the bilge pump was on. In fact, I got zapped every time I touched the positive terminal on the battery.

This is a long one, but I'm wound up about it.

1. I'm guessing there's an issue with the bilge pump ground. The heat shrink looks weak. I've been going directly to the battery with the wires, and there is no fuse.
2. What the $#%! is causing the ski to just quit? Is it a ground issue? Does John at JSS owe me a redo? What do I do next, because I'm losing my patience!

Thanks!
 
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