Super Jet 701 motor issues

bondra131

Thaat's braptaastic!
Had the signs of a vacuum leak (rpm climbing when ski runs out of the water) would idle just fine in the water and also just could not tune the ski very well and the tuning would change daily. So I tore it down and both crank seals appeared to be leaking and also a large section of 1211 had fuel all over it. I cleaned up the mess really well and put in brand new seals and used yamabond, torqued all bolts to 2.8kgm just like the cases say to do so. Except one rear bolt #6 in the pattern I think it was. The case threads were stripped so I just left that bolt loose.. Is that vey crucial? Because after all of this work, rpm still climb when out of water. This ski just won't idle out of the water. And for the first 10 minutes of riding, I was stoked. I had not yet touched carb adjustments and it was running pretty damn hard not rich or lean on top or bottom. I felt that fixing the vac leak did a lot of good. But after 10 Minutes of riding, out of no where it instantly became loaded up and girgly super rich.. And would not clean out. I then leaned out the high speed adjusters 1/4 turn and this helped a lot but the ski seemed to feel like it did before the crank seal rebuild. (Not consistent) sometimes it will hit decent on bottom and other times its loaded up. It felt like a new ski for a whole 10 minutes then went right back to how it was when the seals were blown... Could this be because of the bolt that isn't very tight in the case? I figured it would hold a seal without it.. It has some pressure on it; not completely loose. Or could there be another issue with the ski that share the same signs of a vac leak? Inputs anyone? I've been dealing with this tuning bs and not getting what I want out of my ski for 2 years now and it's gotten very old... I put a ton of time into working on it and get no where. I need a little help from someone who knows more about these skis than I do. It's a fresh motor rebuilt crank and pistons and sleeves all done right. Carbs are rebuilt. All intake gaskets are new. Head orings are new and head bolts and girdle nuts are torqued correctly.. Either that loose case bolt caused it to leak again or there's another issue here that is not a vac leak. Any info or tips will be much appreciated! Thanks to anyone who reads all this and has advice
 

Byeai

"Cheetos-Man"
Location
Melbourne FL
Do a leak down test but I can almost garentee is that bolt it's there for a reason helicoil it if you want crap fix or just buy a new case sound like you got the single carb case so shouldn't be too much money

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 

bondra131

Thaat's braptaastic!
Wouldn't be worth it to have a time insert installed? Those are a fix... I have 62t cases man got them for 100 bucks that was a steal since I see them go for 150-200 usually.. I'd rather get a time insert than buy new cases. These cases are in great shape other than the one stripped bolt hole down there.. I am going to pressure check
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
This probably isn't the issue, but is your fuel system holding pressure?

To me it sounds like an exhaust leak. Runs fine for X amount of time, then burble burble bs.
Try running w/o the hood for poops and giggles.
 

bondra131

Thaat's braptaastic!
Yes, I found the one way valve broken on the breather to the tank a month ago and bought a brand new one. Every time I pull a line off the tank it blows out a ton of air. Even after sitting for days. It's very pressurized, all good there
 
Top Bottom