Blaster any tips to remove yamaha couplers????

[yama-doo]

we are making some more progress on my sons B-1 we got the old engine out and the compartments cleaned BUT the coupler on the B1 Blaster's intermediate housing and the on the 1100 engine are different sizes , so I need to take the coupler off the old engine and install it on the new 1100 ............ problem is neither coupler wants to spin off even with a 4' screw driver as pry bar:crazy: I know they are just threaded on there and granted they have been there awhile but there has to be a way to get these things loose! maybe some type of trick or a new tool I will just have to have???

DOES ANY ONE HAVE A TRICK TO REMOVE COUPLERS ?????



:wall:

 

[btmboards]

they are really tough I did mine when I was rebuilding the engine so I was able to secure the pistons in place with wood. It then to some heat and a 4' floor jack handle. A little heat can be your friend with all these stuck parts

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

Heat and and a 1/2" drive impact with the coupler removal tool.

 

[JetManiac]

Heat is your friend, but be super careful near crank seal

 

[yama-doo]

ok thanks everyone, I'll try some heat if that doesn't work I'll look for the coupler removal tool

 

[ProSouth]

heat the crap out of it, put the plugs in it, hit it as hard as you can with a rubber mallet. unless you dont have compression, then you may need a tool

 

[gaby7mm]

heat the coupler and melt some wax on the tread,wait 10 min and it should realeased easy

 

[yama-doo]

well I was afraid to heat with a act torch cause of the rubber seals and alum coupler so I used a heat gun apparently 5 min heat gun isn't hot enough. I found a scrap steel thing that fit inside both couplers so I welded a socket drive in there and used a impacted gun ..nothing ..... Only one of the couplers on the two cyl has the rubber thread cover that I can try the wax tomorrow but the coupler on the three cylinder has a solid face and no access to threads

we are going to use a spare case and bed plates t0 mock up to add the new engine mounts and mite just do that tomorrow instead for the sack of what sanity I have left

 

[ProSouth]

just replace the seals. if its an older motor i'd do it anyway for a piece of mind. heat that up with a torch

 

[CRJ]

you need a torch to get it off. are you going normal thread direction? the couplers are not reverse thread. left to remove basically lol

 

[yama-doo]

CRJ '
to be honest I could not remember if they where right or left hand thread , So I have tried both directions .



prosouth,
I have a tendency to get a bit carried away with a torch or a hammer :Banane57: I guess the old motor it wouldn't matter it runs as a spare but looks rough so I'd probably rebuild it anyway but the 1100 is the one we just built and don't really want to mess stuff up in that one ......... I just didn't really think about the couple issue in the conversion that will teach me

 

[JetManiac]

You can also change the mid shaft coupler instead where heating the threads on coupler is easier.

 

[yama-doo]

ok thanks I'll see if that intermediate housing coupler will come off any easier

 

[Nate_D]

You really have to heat the piss out of it. Put some pressure (counter clockwise) on the couple while heating it. Once it is hot enough it will almost spin off by hand. I would suggest swapping the midshaft coupler that way you don't have to worry about the seals.

 

[craven]

normally in the world of heating things to get the threads to release the theory is to heat the outer thread to expand it so it is technically loose on the inner thread. So if you are heating it with a heat gun, the outer thread doesnt get hot enough fast enough before the inner thread gets hot and expands the same amount. Essentially just wasting your time. Not saying it doesnt help. What I have done that ha worked 95% of the time is to use a hammer and a short 2x4 (soft punch). Best case you prevent the shaft from spinning by locking the flywheel or the old rope in the spark plug hole trick or what ever. Just take care in not doing something that may damage any parts you are holding with. Next I take the soft punch (2x4) and put it on the one finger of the coupler and smacking the end of the 2x4 with the hammer to try and spin the coupler off in a counter clockwise rotation when looking at the end of the shaft. Some times I have smacked it up to 6-7 times and nothing, then put a light pry bar on it and it comes right off. Word of advise, when you put it back together, use anti-sieze or even oil on the threads. Good luck

 

[MADMAT]

The Canadians and the NY crew schooled me on this! Yellow map gas for friggin 15 minutes...on the hub....it will spin off!! I always had trouble until I some guys helped me/showed me....lots of heat!!

 

[zimmy]

As mentioned, heat heat heat!

 

[High Speed Industries]

If I have a temp gun I usually heat the couplers up to 350*-500*, if I don't have a heat gun I go till starts smoking. If you want to save your crank seal you can cover it with a wet rag, but be careful how you place it or it will keep your coupler cool. To hold the crank in place you can put some rope in the rear cylinder. I've always used a pry bar and a few curse words and they usually come right off. I can imagine a coupler tool would make it easier, but I've never needed one. If you don't have anyone to hold your motor in place you can ratchet strap it to your workbench.
Good luck.

 

[btmboards]

Best/ easiest way to remove couplers

I had to do couplers on two skis this week so yesterday I make this. Only took about 15min start to finish and works perfect. Just three small pieces of 1" angle iron welded to a 1/2" drive socket.
the smaller torch nozzle I took off bc it wasn't heating fast enough.
Put the larger one on (just using regular propan) and heated the coupler from the end (under where the socket tool is sitting) for about 30-45sec or so while using a stray bottle on the seal to keep it cool.
Turned of torch and hit it with impact. Worked perfect took it right off.
After getting couple off I very quickly soaked the crank and seal with water to cool them completely because with the heat still in the crank it will still heat soak everything and heat you seals and what not.
you will probably still need to stop crank from spinning so use a flywheel holder, the rope in spark plug hole or I had the exhaust off anyways so I just held the rear cylinder through the exhaust port

 

[Daralekt]

HAMMER!


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