Are Solas mag pumps still eating bearings?

Just received my solas mag 144 pump. While I was looking for bearings I ran across the thread about this pump eating bearings and ruining all sorts of other fun stuff? Is this still an issue with these pumps? I don't wanna have stupid issues like this on my new ski. Thanks
 

Byeai

"Cheetos-Man"
Location
Melbourne FL
Take it to a machinist and give them the pump and bearing and say you want a thousandth press fit

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

eastcoastjumper

James
Site Supporter
Location
Long Island
I have 2 of them. One the bearings slid in real easy(purchased this year), the other older one took a little more to drive them in. To be honest I hammered them in with a hammer and sockets in a way to not destroy the bearings/races.(god forbid) I also never checked any clearances..lol

Use new OEM seals and fill the pump with synthetic ATF. The light fluid keeps the high rpm spinning bearings better lubricated and cooler than any grease will. It doesn't fling out and is easy to service. Use a tiny bit of waterproof marine grease to seal the rear cone o ring. Make sure it spins smooth when you are finished. If its tight or feeling funky you did something wrong pressing the bearings in.

I rode mine a few times and slid it out to check it and it spun even easier/faster. Checked it again at the end of the season and changed the fluid and its still running great. I ride way more hours a season than your average person.... This pump is goood.
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
You should NEVER use a hammer to install bearings.......

I am currently working on a write up on a Solas pump build for The Watercraft Journal online Magazine. I should have it done, and submitted next week. I use the cool / Heat method. I have built hundreds this way with no issues. Parts go together by hand, NO force needed.

We sell Solas pumps, and I occasionally STILL see them out as much as one thousands. Some are better than others. If anyone buys a pump from me, they come done, and ready to build. We turn each pump, to open up, true it up, and reduce press. I turn every pump, regardless of original size.

I offer this service for people who have bought pumps elsewhere for 45.00

Also remember Drive, Mid shaft, and engine alignment are curtail. Carl at Cold Fusion sells an excellent tool to do the job properly.
 

eastcoastjumper

James
Site Supporter
Location
Long Island
You should NEVER use a hammer to install bearings.......

I am currently working on a write up on a Solas pump build for The Watercraft Journal online Magazine. I should have it done, and submitted next week. I use the cool / Heat method. I have built hundreds this way with no issues. Parts go together by hand, NO force needed.

We sell Solas pumps, and I occasionally STILL see them out as much as one thousands. Some are better than others. If anyone buys a pump from me, they come done, and ready to build. We turn each pump, to open up, true it up, and reduce press. I turn every pump, regardless of original size.

I offer this service for people who have bought pumps elsewhere for 45.00

Also remember Drive, Mid shaft, and engine alignment are curtail. Carl at Cold Fusion sells an excellent tool to do the job properly.

There is no reason you can't install the first bearing into the pump using a socket that fits the outermost bearing race and softly pressing it in with a hammer. There is also no reason you cant install the second bearing onto the drive shaft using a correct sized deep socket against the innermost bearing race again softly with some lube and a hammer.

**The only step that is crucial is inserting the drive shaft into the pump with the bearing attached, and through the front bearing. Which using your heat the pump/freeze the shaft and bearing method lets it slide right in there.
 
I have a 20 ton press, I've been using it to press bearings since I was 13, I will prob send you my pump John, unless you wanna trade my pump for one of yours I just opened mine its brand new haha
 

eastcoastjumper

James
Site Supporter
Location
Long Island
20 ton press or not, the last step of putting the shaft into the pump is where people are destroying their bearings.

Hard to describe to someone who hasn't built a pump before, but unless you have some kind of perfect sized pipe to put around your drive shaft and hold the front bearings inner race, the ball bearings start to crush inward against the race when you put the drive shaft though and it catches. They should make a pump bearing tool(maybe they already have a factory tool) that works with a press where you are limited on space between the hydraulic pump and the base. From the top you would also need a special flat race driver that touches both the inner and outer rear bearing to press it in evenly and not crush those ball bearings either.

@john zigler your writeup will surely be a good read and help the masses with their bearing problems. I'm not arguing my way over yours, all I was getting at is I was successful building my pumps my way because I took note where there was going to be an installation problem and didn't beat the sh it out of it like @JetFiend is making it out to be.

You can be scared of a hammer or not, talk sh it about my way I don't care. I'm not interested in paying a shop to build my ski for me so I will figure it out my way and you are free to use yours. I bought a 300 dollar mag pump off some drop ship website for a reason. This isn't your 160mm billet pump we are talking about.
 
$_12.JPG

Here is the bearing driver
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
I am NOT here to argue..... You can build your pump any way you want. But, if you are going to advise others IMO it is wrong to do so in the manner you are doing it. This is the way I do it. I have 30+ years experience, have built thousands of pumps. (Kawaskai, Yamaha, Honda, Seadoo, Polaris, Etc.) Hundreds of Solas Yamaha pumps with no issues.

I have had MANY customers build pumps in the way you are doing it, and still have bearing failures. When I build the pump for them, their problems all go away.

Here is how I do it;

1 - freeze the shaft.
2 - clean all oil from new bearings, warm and install BOTH bearings on the shaft by hand. NO press, or hammer needed.
3 - completely pack bearings and cavity between bearings with grease.
4 - again cool shaft and bearings
5 - install front seal in the pump
6 - warm pump housing
7 - install shaft, bearings into pump housing again BY hand. No hammer, or press

By doing it this way you are not putting ANY lateral force or stress on the bearings.

I will say, OE aluminum pumps are more forgiving. This is the way I build all Yamaha Pumps, but is most curtail with a stainless housing.
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
I have a 20 ton press, I've been using it to press bearings since I was 13, I will prob send you my pump John, unless you wanna trade my pump for one of yours I just opened mine its brand new haha

If you want to send your pump in to me, I can true it up (Or trade for one done if yours is new). 45.00 + s&h
 
It's not very thick. It's comparable to lower unit fluid use in boat out drives. It still much thinner than grease...
Plus an automatic transmission uses its fluid as hydraulic fluid, so it needs to be thin for that purpose. Thus, the bearings and everything else in there are designed to operate in that fluid. You're putting a thin oil in a bearing that was designed to be run in grease. That's a big difference to me...
 
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