At home anodizing

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Has anyone done it? It seems simple, although dangerous, from what I have found in my searches.

I made a part of 1/4" plate and would like to protect it. I don't need to dye this part but I have other parts I want to make that I would like to dye.

I'm a DIY guy and would like to be able to do it on my own unless its a lot more expensive or too dangerous.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I looked into it a few years back. You can do small one off's easy enough with decent results.

There's a good writeup on google where a guy was doing knives. I believe one of the ingredients was coke or pepsi.
 
another option is to Powder Coat. Tons of DIY kits and tons of stock color powder. Look at automotive market as there are many catalog houses that have kits ready to go in many price ranges.
 
In my experience powder coat always seems to hold up better. Anodized parts always seem to get scratched up and oxidized. Anodized looks better at 1st but rarely last long. Even trying to remove powder from parts in a sand blast cabinet always seems impossible. If it were me I'd go powder just seems cheaper and easier
 
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yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
Run your boat a few times in the salt, then watch your powdercoating bubble and peel the rest of the year.
 
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OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Powder coating is worthless in the salt.

I have had a couple parts anodized over the years and have always found someone to toss it in with another batch for me. X-Scream and Thrust have both hooked me up before. I had to wait til they were doing a batch for the right color but it was well worth the wait each time.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Salt. Xscream is local and they have been riding at the same lake recently. I only just met pat and Jason but maybe I can work something out with them.

I really like working on my own stuff though, so if I can do it myself I'd like to. That feeling of accomplishment is always nice.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Well I think the same way you do so I say do it once just to say you did.

Here's the forum post that I mentioned earlier, the guy lays it out pretty good.

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?fid/41/tid/737177/

This is hard to appreciate with pictures and the glare from the scanner has pretty much obliterated some areas of the knife but you can get the idea from the pics. The whole of the liners and clip is purple/blue in color and quite attractive.

I anodized the liners and the pocket clip of my Spyderco Salt that I rebuilt the body on in a very primitive but effective way. I did it with three 9 volt batteries using homemade jumper cables and crimping alligator clips to both ends of them. Each jumper cable is about 8" long and the two for doing the anodizing are about 12" long. Each wire (four in all) has rubber coated alligator clips and an alligator clip on each end.

I ran the 9 volt batteries in series by clipping the first jumper to the positive terminal of one battery. Then I took the other end of that jumper and clipped it to the negative of the second battery. Then I took the next jumper wire and hooked it from the postive of the second battery to the negative on the third. Using the remaining clip installed wires I hooked on to the negative on the first battery and one to the positive on the third.

I then poured some diet coke in a glass bowl and clipped a scrap piece of titanium to the negative and dunked it in the coke. Then I thouroughly cleaned the titanium I wanted to color with acetone. When it dried in a few seconds I clipped the pocket clip to the positive jumper and dunked it in. Within seconds it turned to a very attractive brilliant purple color. I then reclipped the other end and dunked the second half of the clip. Both sides were anodized in a few seconds time. I then did the liners on the folder the same way. Total time was about 10 minutes once I got it all set up.

This was so easy it makes me wonder why anodizers sell for as much as they do. You don't need all that gadgetry to make a working unit. I mean a read out and a power light is all nice and everything but it is not needed to get the job done. With a block of wood some scrap wire and some rubber gloves you can do it yourself in minutes. Just take precautions to make sure the work area is dry, and that you have your feet grounded and rubber gloves on.

The color changes according to the voltage run through the metal. You could theoretically run as many 9 volt batteries as you wanted in series but anything above about 40-50 volts starts to get into the dangerous shock potential where it could actually stop a heart if it bites you. So four batteries is about as far as I would go with this method unless you took extra precautions to insulate and make sure of safety measures before proceeding.


If you try it later with some titanium and use the towel method or brush method by soaking a paper towel or a small brush in Coke it works well for making a specified pattern to just a small specific area. You have to touch the clip to the wet towel draped over the metal or arrange the cut out paper pattern you pre-made after soaking it and then hit it with the current to the area you want to cover in a color pattern by anodizing.

So, just hooking an alligator clip to the wet towel is not going to do anything. I would imagine for making some custom shields for knife handles and ear rings or other small parts that this would be a great thing to start doing.

For the clip and separate parts where you don't need to do a pattern the dunk is better suited and also much faster. If you do try the towel method, clip one alligator clip to the part you are coloring and use the other to touch the wet rag or pattern draped or set on the metal and check the metal after doing the pattern. If it worked you have it hooked up right if not you need to reverse the alligator clips by hooking the one you were using to touch the metal to the part and then use the one you had clipped to do the touching. It either works immediately or it doesn't. It is fun to do also.

I will be doing another set of liners here shortly on a folder I just started. That will be in another thread later on. Stay tuned.

Steve

Oh yeah. You can see more on this here at this link.

http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how20/3f178ca927d05010vgnvcm1000004eecbccdrcrd.html

NOTE: if this link doesn't work copy and paste the whole address in your browser.

It is an article on anodizing using 9 volt batteries. In this write up the author did a titanium birdhouse. The article came out in Popular Mechanics but it did not go into as much detail as you really need to know to get it done. I think I filled in the gaps for anyone wanting to try it.

Steve
 
I have a powder shop... And in my other company that is closely related to saltwater sports every part we use is anodized. Not powdered. This should show which is superior. But there are many scenarios where I don't care because of the certain color or custom affect I'm trying to achieve.There are many different types of anodizing as well as thickness' also keep that in mind.
 
Hi guys, I have experience with anodizing. I do a lot of hobby machining and wanted to have lots of tiny parts I build done in multiple colors. I found it to be a very expensive process if you send them out to be done at a metal finishing shop. And you have no control over what dyes they use or how much of an anodizing layer is applied. I found some places use the cheapest dyes they can find. Most are not uv stable and will fade the colors quickly in bright sunlight. And if its not done right it will be very easy to scratch also. I think a lot of shops only do enough to make the part take color, not enough time in the bath to produce a nice thick coating. A mill spec type 2 anodize will actually build up a layer on and in the metal. So it is extremely durable. I started doing it at home with a kit I bought from a search on the net. To do it right its fairly expensive to set everything up. But when I first started out I used a battery charger and rit dye. Now I have most of the right stuff to do a good job on my parts. But for just a few parts a guy can do it cheap with a battery charger at home. For good results use a quality uv stable dye. To do it right and get great results there are many chemicals and processes involved to color a part. They dyes are cheap for a 2 gallon bath. I think the most I have paid for any color was 18 bucks. And the color selection is fantastic. The guy in the post above is doing titanium. That's a whole different process. Much safer with only one chemical. Baking soda water, works much better then any kind of soda. And it allows you to see the color change as it happens. But who has titanium parts on their ski anyway, so back to aluminum. I paid 250 for my kit that included all the chemicals needed except the acid which you can source locally. Mine is for a 2 gallon bath, Meaning all my stages of chemicals are in 2 gallon containers. The bigger you get the more you can do or bigger single parts. Then you need a nice dc power supply, 12 amps per sq ft. So get a 35 amp or bigger supply for a 2 gallon set up. And a way to heat some of the stages to a controlled temp. And ventilating systems for the nasty chemicals. Actually the worst one is battery acid and its very diluted. The fumes produced are the same as charging a battery. Its kind of a pain in the a$$ and a time consuming deal. But some good hobbies are like that. There's tons of articles that can explain it much better then I can on the net and some good vids on you tube also. But if anybody decides to try it I am happy to try to answer questions. I would post pics but I have no idea how.
 

Joker

...chaos? Its Fair!
Hi guys, I have experience with anodizing. I do a lot of hobby machining and wanted to have lots of tiny parts I build done in multiple colors. I found it to be a very expensive process if you send them out to be done at a metal finishing shop. And you have no control over what dyes they use or how much of an anodizing layer is applied. I found some places use the cheapest dyes they can find. Most are not uv stable and will fade the colors quickly in bright sunlight. And if its not done right it will be very easy to scratch also. I think a lot of shops only do enough to make the part take color, not enough time in the bath to produce a nice thick coating. A mill spec type 2 anodize will actually build up a layer on and in the metal. So it is extremely durable. I started doing it at home with a kit I bought from a search on the net. To do it right its fairly expensive to set everything up. But when I first started out I used a battery charger and rit dye. Now I have most of the right stuff to do a good job on my parts. But for just a few parts a guy can do it cheap with a battery charger at home. For good results use a quality uv stable dye. To do it right and get great results there are many chemicals and processes involved to color a part. They dyes are cheap for a 2 gallon bath. I think the most I have paid for any color was 18 bucks. And the color selection is fantastic. The guy in the post above is doing titanium. That's a whole different process. Much safer with only one chemical. Baking soda water, works much better then any kind of soda. And it allows you to see the color change as it happens. But who has titanium parts on their ski anyway, so back to aluminum. I paid 250 for my kit that included all the chemicals needed except the acid which you can source locally. Mine is for a 2 gallon bath, Meaning all my stages of chemicals are in 2 gallon containers. The bigger you get the more you can do or bigger single parts. Then you need a nice dc power supply, 12 amps per sq ft. So get a 35 amp or bigger supply for a 2 gallon set up. And a way to heat some of the stages to a controlled temp. And ventilating systems for the nasty chemicals. Actually the worst one is battery acid and its very diluted. The fumes produced are the same as charging a battery. Its kind of a pain in the a$$ and a time consuming deal. But some good hobbies are like that. There's tons of articles that can explain it much better then I can on the net and some good vids on you tube also. But if anybody decides to try it I am happy to try to answer questions. I would post pics but I have no idea how.

You might be able to start recouping money now
 
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