Super Jet Automotive Windshield Adhesive ???

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
As many of you may know, getting the stock sj rail-caps off in one piece can be quite a chore....often impossible. It's because of the super-ridiculous-space age-hard as rock-volcanic glass glue that they use at the factory.
I've managed to get them off intact a few times now.
With only turf remaining on my year-long marathon re-build, I'm debating whether to use them again or not.

Pro: Because of the design, they are softer than turf.
They simplify the turf job. Less contour fitting, more straight cuts.

Con: Contact cement won't hold them for long.
Not so "custom" in appearance.

Butti used some black stuff in a caulk tube last time. It worked well enough. Had to re-glue spots now and then. I don't know what it was.

X2 Frank suggested automotive windshield adhesive.
Thinking about the forces and environment in which it needs to perform, it made sense to me.

Looking for some input/experience/advise where this product is concerned.
 

snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
Butyl is a bad choice (windshield adhesive). It stays soft, and can be dissolved with some mild chemicals, and even wax. I prefer to build up the cap area with 8mm under padding, then turf the whole side with footholds with no seams. Yes, it can be done with zero seams.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I put down a layer of 7mm underpad on top of the rails to give it some cushion and then just use turf. So much simpler and if done correctly, it last for years.

Here's Jen's 07 after more than 5 years.


83f6bb6e5fe92b3631e9ecdbd6ad2c4a.jpg


ebc3f8b72481dcd9a0c894b6a85a74a8.jpg
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
Butyl is a bad choice (windshield adhesive). It stays soft, and can be dissolved with some mild chemicals, and even wax. I prefer to build up the cap area with 8mm under padding, then turf the whole side with footholds with no seams. Yes, it can be done with zero seams.

I was not sure about what windshield adhesive was made of. Thank you!
Butti is the best around here when it comes to installing turf. But he's silly-busy with work. I wouldn't mind using the rail-caps again if it would make the job a bit easier for him.

Got an idea for a better glue?
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
I put down a layer of 7mm underpad on top of the rails to give it some cushion and then just use turf. So much simpler and if done correctly, it last for years.

Here's Jen's 07 after more than 5 years.



83f6bb6e5fe92b3631e9ecdbd6ad2c4a.jpg


ebc3f8b72481dcd9a0c894b6a85a74a8.jpg
That looks very comfortable.
I'm torn.
Not excited about building up the rails and rounding them off as shown. The caps retain the clean lines. Turf without pad might be unfriendly and hard
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
I hate 5200. HATE it with passion.
Really?
It can be difficult...and messy. But it sticks. Maybe too well sometimes.

It's got it's place in marine applications for sure.



At this point I'm really leaning toward using the stock rail caps and finding the right adhesive.
Just to be different, if for no other reason.
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
I have used 3m window weld quite a bit when sticking things to rally cars that I didn't want to come off (carbon kevlar floor protection to name one). I wouldn't hesitate to use it to glue something to jetksi as long I was very confident I wanted it to be there a long time...

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/107695O/3mtm-super-fast-urethane-08609.pdf


That's some interesting stuff.
I am a fan of 3M products.
I noticed in the directions a reinforcement of snowxr's input about butyl.
 
Location
Oregon
My oem rail caps fell off both sides of my ski, so sometimes the Yamaha glue does fail. I reinstalled with the normal weldwood contact cement and if you do it correctly they don't come loose. Use some really course sand paper on the inside of the caps and on the hull. Make sure you let it dry before install.

5200 can take an extreme amount of time to cure, especially if the temps are below 70. My last pump shoe took 21 days to dry with a heater keeping the hull warm. I will never use 5200 again. I think it's called 4200 fast cure, that works better but it's still messy and probably not as strong. I would never use it to install rail caps though.
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
My oem rail caps fell off both sides of my ski, so sometimes the Yamaha glue does fail. I reinstalled with the normal weldwood contact cement and if you do it correctly they don't come loose. Use some really course sand paper on the inside of the caps and on the hull. Make sure you let it dry before install.

5200 can take an extreme amount of time to cure, especially if the temps are below 70. My last pump shoe took 21 days to dry with a heater keeping the hull warm. I will never use 5200 again. I think it's called 4200 fast cure, that works better but it's still messy and probably not as strong. I would never use it to install rail caps though.

Haven't made a decision about what adhesive to use at this point. Doubt 5200 will be involved. However, 21 days to cure is crazy! The temp and weather/humidity had to have something to do with that.
The final decision will be left up to Butti.
He's the turf Guru.
I just want to have all of the materials available to him when he begins to work his magic.
 
You had to do it...you had to make me start searching lol. One of my friend's uncle used to work for a manufacturing place in the U.S. some years ago. I can not for the life of me remember where and doing what, but he used to get this crazy strong adhesive called MarineTough. I spent the last hour trying to locate it online with no success. But I did find some interesting links, if I find any others I will try to remember to post them, but here is one to consider for now anyway....

http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/epoxy-adhesive.htm
http://www.bostik-us.com/market-products/transportation/marine/products/
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexflexset.html
http://www.fixtechmarine.com/marine.html
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom