b-pipe adjustment screw issues

The Penguin

The Penguin

triple secret probation
Location
down by the river
The used b-pipe I just bought has a few issues with the adjusting screws I am trying to resolve.

The top screw is broken off, and ground flush with the boss - so I don't think removal is an option. Suggestions?

The middle (underneath) screw is stuck. The locking nut is loose - so I'm going to try heating the boss and removing the screw.

The bottom screw is broken off with just enough out of the boss to piss me off. So, I may try carefully drilling the center enough that I can get an "ez-out" started. then heat the boss and try to back it out slowly.

So - that brings me to the next question - what is the best way to heat it? Blow torch? Oven? heat gun?
 
keefer

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
Just do like I have done two other locked up head pipes. Chuck it up with clamps or a vise on a drill press table and drill the top and bottom screws out. Buy the pdiddy oversize bolts with included drill bits and viola U are done. The middle screw is a PIA to get chucked up and I never use it for tuning, so if it is stuck open I just pulled a vacume to suck epoxy into the hole to seal it shut. JB quick works great for this. If you dont want to use the pdiddy screws then you can always drill & helicoil or time cert the holes and use the original replacements. The hardest part is getting the head pipe chucked up straight in the drill press.
 
The Penguin

The Penguin

triple secret probation
Location
down by the river
well, I thought that heating the pipe and removing would be easier than chucking and drilling - but I may end up going that route.

How can I check the mid-screw to see if it is open or closed?
 
keefer

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
Make up a garden hose to 3/8 hose adapter and put a little water under pressure in there by holding your finger over the other one . Not too much pressure just enough to see how much the internal bleed holes are spraying. I have used this method to check for leaks and to rough tune the head pipe before installing it. You can simulate the amount of water flowing through it and see how the bleed holes are adjusted. The system probably never sees much more than 10-15 lbs if that much under normal operation. You could also use low air pressure and soapy water from a spray bottle and check for bubbles at the leak points. I like the water method better because it simulates real time operation.
 
Last edited:
sj1million

sj1million

moto - dirt/h2o
Location
melboring, Fl
The Penguin said:
so, if I want to try heating the pipe in an oven - what do you suggest? 150º for 30 min?
Click to expand...

The idea behind heating is to heat the Al. and have it expand while the steel screw stays (some what) cool and stays small. An oven will heat everything and it will dang near expand equally. Use oxy/acetylene torch and just be carefull!
 
D

Drav

Location
Las Vegas
my bottom one is destroyed too and sits flush =(

EZ-out didnt work, those steel screws are a PITA to get holes in

I havent tried heating it up yet though, I need to buy a torch
 
2

2nd nature

Location
atlanta ga
JACOBSKI had a few bpipes with broken screws. sent them to jet works and had the screw removed with some kind of lazer.little pricy but chaper then ruining a bpipe.
 
The Penguin

The Penguin

triple secret probation
Location
down by the river
OK, 1 down, 1 to go.

used a propane torch (thanks again Mick!) and heated the boss for the mid-screw thoroughly (nice to have heat resistant gloves for this) - and then grabbed the screw with vise grips and backed it out. Crushed the screw in the process, no biggie cause I was planning on buying a new set anyway.

Now - on to the other one. It's the bottom screw, and has maybe 1/16" out of the boss - not enough to grab with vise grips or anything else I have around here. So it should be fun :biggrin:
 
Moondance

Moondance

Just plain me....
Location
Ridin' the Crazy Train
The Penguin said:
OK, 1 down, 1 to go.

used a propane torch (thanks again Mick!) and heated the boss for the mid-screw thoroughly (nice to have heat resistant gloves for this) - and then grabbed the screw with vise grips and backed it out. Crushed the screw in the process, no biggie cause I was planning on buying a new set anyway.

Now - on to the other one. It's the bottom screw, and has maybe 1/16" out of the boss - not enough to grab with vise grips or anything else I have around here. So it should be fun :biggrin:
Click to expand...
Do they have chili peppers on them:jester:
 
dirtyoz

dirtyoz

Location
Alaska
I wonder if cutting or grinding away an 1/8" of the boss to expose more to grab would work. I know it sounds a little "backyard" but maybe better than a plugged hole.
 
Q

QuickMick

Guest
dirtyoz said:
I wonder if cutting or grinding away an 1/8" of the boss to expose more to grab would work. I know it sounds a little "backyard" but maybe better than a plugged hole.
Click to expand...

I wouldnt do that, that will shorten the amount of threads you have.

Bring it to me so I can heliarc a rod to the screw. Ive done that a time or two. after the weld I will spray the screw down with Marvel Mystery oil to loosen it up.

But its your pipe do it either way.
 
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