B pipe getting to hot

Location
Broward
Ive seen a couple sj's with the b pipe with a weird colored finish to them... it looks as if they got to hot, or is it just dirty? Going to look at this ski tomorrow but dont know if thats normal or notScreenshot (62).png
 
yeap,got hot.probably from sand blocking the adjusting screw holes in the headpipe.other than damaging the coupler and paint it's really not a deal breaker
 
Location
Broward
update: I bought the ski but the chamber is overheating every time i ride it, it sizzles all the water immedietly. All 3 screws are frozen.... the bottom 2 are closed and top is open. Checked every single cooling line and they are not clogged or anything. What else should I check
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
i removed all the screws and put compressed air in all the holes, what should i soak it in

Soak it? You can use penetrating oil on the screw if they are stuck but it sounds like you removed them? No need to soak the pipe. Just flush it with the hose and ensure it's clear of all debris. If you want to soak it, dawn or simple green water should be fine to clean it up. Check the adjustment screw internal holes with a small drill bit BY HAND. Do not damage the hole or break the bit. You're just gently making sure the hole is clear. It's a SAE diameter not metric.

You can get some metal polish and a 6" drill buffer attachment to try to clean that chamber up some (a bench grinder with a buffer disc is better if you have a bench ginder that can take a buffing pad).
 
Location
Broward
IMG_1907.PNG
With the head screws removed water would shoot out of every hole perfectly, all the cooling lines in the ski are clear... waiting for some new screws to check if it still gets sizzling hot. Anything else i should check before i put it back on
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
View attachment 335711
With the head screws removed water would shoot out of every hole perfectly, all the cooling lines in the ski are clear... waiting for some new screws to check if it still gets sizzling hot. Anything else i should check before i put it back on

Water is coming out of the pipe BUT is water going INTO the pipe. Put the 3 screws back in and put your finger over the cooling outlet. Close 2 screws at a time and leave the other out numerous turns. Ensure each of the 3 inside holes flows a good stream of water and each of them can be closed with the screw. If they do not flow, then see post #6.
 
Location
Broward
IMG_1908.JPG
Water is coming out of the pipe BUT is water going INTO the pipe. Put the 3 screws back in and put your finger over the cooling outlet. Close 2 screws at a time and leave the other out numerous turns. Ensure each of the 3 inside holes flows a good stream of water and each of them can be closed with the screw. If they do not flow, then see post #6.
Tested all 3 of the screws and water comes into the pipe, this pic was taken without the water fitting closed because it would spray to hard. I guess the only thing left to do is put the pipe back on with the new screws. Is there any possible way that the engine itself is getting too hot which is what makes the pipe hot? When i rode it the pipe was way hotter than the motor so i dont think thats the case
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
View attachment 335713
Tested all 3 of the screws and water comes into the pipe, this pic was taken without the water fitting closed because it would spray to hard. I guess the only thing left to do is put the pipe back on with the new screws. Is there any possible way that the engine itself is getting too hot which is what makes the pipe hot? When i rode it the pipe was way hotter than the motor so i dont think thats the case

Good work.

Yes. You could have blockages elsewhere. Corrosion in the engine. I had mud dobbers make nests in my inlets and outlets. You can be tuned too lean. Etc.
 

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
was the stock head taped for an additional 3/8" barb? why? do you have a single cooling line coming in from the pump or two?
try running both cooling lines coming off the head to the top of the head pipe. and the bottom of head pipe to stinger and pisser with a T. I had a ski that the chamber got way hot on and I went through all the things you did. I finally tried t-ing both lines of the head to the head pipe and that increased the pressure in the head pipe and solved the hot chamber issue for me. Easy and worth a try.
 
Mine was pretty discolored before I powdercoated it. Haven't done a sizzle test in awhile but it's not melting couplers and it rips so I'm happy
 
Location
Broward
Switched screws and it no longer overheats, question though: Does anyone feel like after they go slow or idle for a while and you punch the throttle the hit you usually get off the pipe is delayed, almost like a turbo lag. Is it a carb problem?
 
Location
GA
Switched screws and it no longer overheats, question though: Does anyone feel like after they go slow or idle for a while and you punch the throttle the hit you usually get off the pipe is delayed, almost like a turbo lag. Is it a carb problem?
Carb needs tuned. If tuned correctly throttle response should be instant
 
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