Trebsdub, Carter makes a great kit for an easy cut and glass setup on what he has posted above. I like the straight cut, the rear of a blaster is definitely week, but much of the damage that comes on the rear end is due to the forces that are applied to the rear lip of the ski rather than to the vertical surface as it meets the water. The upward pressure when you land tends to bend the lip upwards, weakening and cracking it over time as you jump (and jump you will!!!).
I cut my hull -3 following the contour of the original hull (considered the straight cut) and removed the rear lip. 2+ years later the hull is still in great shape and extremely strong. The straight cut has survived many big air landings, backy flat landings and sand bar hits without issue.
The straight cut requires you to be extremely nose high to put the rear of the hill parallel to the water surface where the hardest hit would cause damage.
When I cut my hull, I found it easier to recover from big airs as believe the slight reduction in bouyancy in the rear of the hull eliminated the well known "blaster bob" that is difficult to fight on many landings without falling off. My hull tends to land, sit and then I am able to power away without an issue, it does not land and then "bob" back out of the water and unhook the pump.
You should definitely take the opportunity to ride a few versions of what you think you might like to get a better understanding of the handling characteristics prior to picking up the grinder, know before you go and make sure all your hard work gives you the desired handling characteristics you are seeking.
My next build will include a straight cut rear, with a small lip, probably just enough to get my fingers under it, but not enough to give the water something to break off like the stock 2 inch plus lip ( it is necessary to get the ski off the beach, no lip is a pain).
Post up some pics of the build!