Super Jet Bad ground wire? 1990 Super Jet 650

[Brink420]

Just picked up a gem, 1990 SJ 650, super clean. Here's why happened, took her out for the 1st time and she ran great, ran for 25 minutes straight. after stopping to slug down a brew the ski wouldn't start back up. Just a clicking sound. Worst part, i had to call my brother who towed me back in on a sea doo, lame! Found the battery terminals were fried and the battery (a champion from 2006 lol) was probably the culprit. I am assuming it is a bad cable? Bad negative cable? Ski turns over still so I know it's not seized. Here's some attached photos. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you community.

 

[JetManiac]

Replace battery since you know it needs it anyway. Check battery cables. Then test it again.

The only other starting parts are starter and switch and solenoid.

 

[Brink420]

Update: Replaced the battery and cables, still nothing. Must be a bad starter? Please help

Also, WHERE DO I PURCHASE A NEW STARTER? I am a nOOb to the SuperJet lifestyle, lol.

 

[paczowski123]

Had the same thing happen to mine but no fried cables. Just a clicking after turning off and running fine all day. Opened up the Ebox and put a remote starter on the relay terminals and it turned over.

 

[Brink420]

I am lost here, please help. When you say remote starter? I am lost. What remote starter? Help me better understand here... Did you have to replace the solenoid? Should I purchase a new starter? What should I do and where should I purchase replacement parts? nOOb here.. Thanks for all the help community

 

[paczowski123]

It's a remote starter I had in my tool box, can be purchased at auto parts stores that had teo leads and once the bottom is pressed it makes the connection. I'm not a fan of arcing a screwdriver to test around all that fuel. To test solenoid you open the e box and you'll see the two battery wires bolted to the two terminals. You can either jump those two terminals with a screwdriver or use a remote starter like I did. If it turns over like mine did its prob the solenoid, if not there's prob a ground problem or another problem. Others will also probably chime in, new solenoid can be purchased new or used can be found as well, I posted a wanted ad for a new/used and got many people that had them. This site rocks plenty of people willing to help/sell parts!

 

[Fro Diesel]

Disconnect the black and white wires leading to the ebox. This is the kill switch for the start stop switch. I rarely see the oem starters go bad.

 

[paczowski123]

Wouldn't he not be getting the clicking if his S/S was bad? If start or lanyard kill switch was bad it wouldn't click at all if his stop was bad it would turn over just not fire correct?

 

[BrightE's]

I picked up a pretty roughed up 93' 650 last year that had this exact problem. It turned out that none of the components were broken, it was just a matter that the starter was not getting the current it needed because of oxide build up on some of the wired connections to the battery.

I was getting solenoid clicking, but no start. I sanded the battery wire terminals, as well as the terminals on the battery, and Vvrooom! She started right up, and hasn't had a problem since. Try to clean up all the connections that are exposed, see if that does anything first before you go pulling components out.

 

[paczowski123]

That's strange you got the clicking and it wouldn't spin the starter. Did you jump the terminals on the solenoid to see if it did it then? Mine clicks but doesn't spin, but if I jump the solenoid terminals it fires..seems if corrosion was the culprit it wouldn't even for when jumping the terminals unless the solenoid added that much resistance. But still don't see it adding much more than the long terminals of the remote starter...

 

[BrightE's]

That's strange you got the clicking and it wouldn't spin the starter. Did you jump the terminals on the solenoid to see if it did it then? Mine clicks but doesn't spin, but if I jump the solenoid terminals it fires..seems if corrosion was the culprit it wouldn't even for when jumping the terminals unless the solenoid added that much resistance. But still don't see it adding much more than the long terminals of the remote starter...

I don't think it is about the solenoid if it is corrosion. It could still switch, and there be no start. The corrosion is an amperage restrictor. The low trigger switch of the solenoid might not take more than 500-1000 mA. Where the actual starter has a draw of possibly up to an estimated ~30 amps based on the gauge of the wires used to supply it. If the corrosion is bad enough to restrict the current that much, the connection might not even be meeting the starter's turning threshold.

 

[paczowski123]

Oh yeah I was just asking to compare it to mine and his situation. His sounds like resistance/ground if he's melting wires where as mine might be relay related as once I jumped the solenoid mine fired right off.

 

[Myself]

Why is everyone making this so complicated? Get a voltage meter.....measure battery voltage.....hit start button and see if there's a huge voltage drop. If not, then reach under exhaust manifold with voltage tester lead and touch it to the starter lug....hit start button......do you have 12v to the starter? If yes, then the starter is bad.....exhaust will need to come off to replace it. If no 12v to starter or way less then open e-box and measure voltage at solenoid. 12v in....hit start button...12v out to starter. If no 12v out or a lot less then the solenoid is faulty....piece of cake!

 

[paczowski123]

I don't think we are making it complicated...we were simply discussing the situations...based on our posts it seemed we knew how to test..just discussing it and comparing the situations.

 

[Myself]

Sorry, that comes off sounding kind of ruogh. I just mean break out the meter and start with the basics.