Bought a Rickter, don’t know much about it…

Location
Utah
So I bought a Rickter XFR recently after owning mostly stock 550/650/750 Kawasaki’s for the past 10 years. For the price it seemed like a great deal to get into something I could start doing some tricks on while still rec riding with friends. But I’m still just getting my feet wet with modified stuff so I’ve got a few questions….

The guy that sold it to me didn’t know much about it at all, he had bought it from a guy in Havasu as a pair with a Superjet he wanted. From what he told me, the original builder bought the Blowsion Rickter kit and used a 2014 Superjet donor. That seems to check out with the amount of blowsion parts on it.

Guy that sold it to me also said it was a 760… but based on the case and cylinder it would be a 701?

62T case 61x cyl and Factory B pipe
SBN 44’s?
Not sure if it’s the stock pump off the SJ

Biggest thing right now is I was told that, based on the color of my head pipe, it’s getting too hot. Pisser water is about 120-125 at the hottest. Engine is plenty cool to touch, but our no-wake zone is 150yds so that’s after a high idle for 2-3min. But the chamber is definitely getting hot, and was starting to melt the water lines crossing over it.
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It’s got single cooling, run about like this diagram but with only one inlet on the manifold. Blowsion flow control valve between T and stinger.
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What I drew:
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This should be plenty to cool a mostly stock engine right? The water lines are free and clear. Should I plumb in dual cooling? It’s all set up for it except for the hole being tapped into the pump. The second cooling line is capped coming out the back and into the engine compartment as well as a second pisser already installed.

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Getting hot was my biggest concern. Second to that the only other problem I’m having is the engine bogs heavily when I turn hard left… doesn’t matter which way the ski is leaning. The only thing I could think of is the steering cable binding, but watching the throttle body while moving the controls it doesn’t seem to be moving at all. Any ideas?
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those carbs are 38 not 44. 38 is 3 bolt holes on top. 44 and up are 4 bolt.
You running a stock syphon/bilge? can you show us the other side of the pump from the back?
 
Location
Utah
those carbs are 38 not 44. 38 is 3 bolt holes on top. 44 and up are 4 bolt.
You running a stock syphon/bilge? can you show us the other side of the pump from the back?
The siphon style bilge is still installed, as well as a rule 500. Thanks for the carbs.
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smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
In case the Blowsion Flow Control Valve is sticking or the cracking pressure is too high, remove the guts of the FCV or remove it completely so a steady stream of 3/8" Water goes into the Stinger to cool things down.

Also, would open the Head Pipe Top and Bottom Screws to One Full Turn Open from closed. This is more Water than needed, but do it to see if the Pipe cools down.

If the Pipe doesn't cool down, then there is a clog or clogs somewhere in the Cooling System.

Once the Cooling System is clean and clear, go back to the correct Cooling Settings for the Head Pipe and the Stinger.

Also check that the Waterbox Baffles aren't broken and the Long Rubber Exhaust Hose coming out of the Waterbox passing by the Carbs is not crunchy or collapsed.

The Blue Hose on the Pump Left is the Vacuum Bilge. The Orange Hose on the Right is the Cooling Water Supply. Make sure the Exhaust Manifold is connected to the Orange Line. This Tube should come out on the same side of the Bulkhead.

Check that the Cooling Supply Line has not Heat-collapsed or Kinked and is blocking the full flow of Cooling Water to the Manifold.
Agreed with this ^^^^. Your pipe chamber has gotten hot enough to burn all of the paint off of it. My bet would be that the head pipe screws are either closed or clogged. That's WAY too hot for your chamber.
 

bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
No need for dual cooling. I'd run a second water outlet for the head that just dumps overboard to increase flow if you live somewhere warmer like I do, but I run a single input cooling system in 120* heat and 85* water and 210psi compression without issue.
 
Location
Utah
In case the Blowsion Flow Control Valve is sticking or the cracking pressure is too high, remove the guts of the FCV or remove it completely so a steady stream of 3/8" Water goes into the Stinger to cool things down.

Also, would open the Head Pipe Top and Bottom Screws to One Full Turn Open from closed. This is more Water than needed, but do it to see if the Pipe cools down.

If the Pipe doesn't cool down, then there is a clog or clogs somewhere in the Cooling System.

Once the Cooling System is clean and clear, go back to the correct Cooling Settings for the Head Pipe and the Stinger.

Also check that the Waterbox Baffles aren't broken and the Long Rubber Exhaust Hose coming out of the Waterbox passing by the Carbs is not crunchy or collapsed.

The Blue Hose on the Pump Left Side is the Vacuum Bilge. The Orange Hose on the Right Side is the Cooling Water Supply. Make sure the Exhaust Manifold is connected to the Orange Line. This Tube should come out on the same side of the Bulkhead.

Check that the Cooling Supply Line has not Heat-collapsed or Kinked and is blocking the full flow of Cooling Water to the Manifold.

Thanks for all this. Had to take the head pipe off to adjust the screws, they were all completely closed and closed tight enough to strip the hex key for the top and bottom… ended up having to weld a nut onto the top screw to get it out, heat and pb blaster got the bottom out. There was a bit of fouling on the top screw.

Ordered new screws and a gasket for the head pipe then I’ll be able to test once they get here. Didn’t take the guts out of the FCV but I adjusted it until I was able to blow through it with some effort.

What’s the best way to see if things are cooling down while riding other than temp of the pisser water? Just the sizzle test that factory recommends?
 
Location
Utah
No need for dual cooling. I'd run a second water outlet for the head that just dumps overboard to increase flow if you live somewhere warmer like I do, but I run a single input cooling system in 120* heat and 85* water and 210psi compression without issue.
Definitely warm here, Southern Utah. So same temps you just described here soon.

The small black hose that runs off the head in this pic that is kinked and tied off is the one to run overboard, correct?
 

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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Definitely warm here, Southern Utah. So same temps you just described here soon.

The small black hose that runs off the head in this pic that is kinked and tied off is the one to run overboard, correct?
That is for the stock exhaust. I would cut a short piece of primer line and fill with silicone and use that as a plug for that fitting.
 

bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
The small black hose that runs off the head in this pic that is kinked and tied off is the one to run overboard, correct?
No, cap that and ignore. On most stock heads you have to drill and tap a new hole on the side for the second outlet. I like to do it right below that fitting in the pic.
760 heads run this dual outlet setup from the factory. The 62t 701 in my raider has a head that has the second port drilled and tapped but plugged from the factory.
 
Location
dfw
The small line is a bleeder that attached to the stock exhaust. Most people cap it without problems.
 
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