Budget 1200 Blaster Build

[Jarrett Simmons]

Started this project with the intention of building a 1200 on a budget but poop happens... I have done the 1200 conversion before but went off to school so sold it.

I started off by buying a blaster that had a b pipe, buckshots, and a newly rebuilt 701. Rode the ski once and the engine ripped but parted it out and got more than the price of the blaster for the engine and parts.

I then bought a gp1200 with a 175 hours that came with a trailer for 2000. Parted out the pump and excess parts and sold the the trailer to make up most of the cost of the 1200. The 1200 started at idled fine, however once i started riding and came to a plane the engine would cut off. I would then have to restart it and then it would run then die again. The pistons and cylinder are in great shape. The battery seemed pretty weak and eventually died after restarting the ski so many times. I got a carb rebuild kit thinking that was causing the ski to die. The ski also wasnt getting gas when i tried starting it the next day on the trailer. Any ideas?


Removed all the foam in less than an hour


Ive begun prepping the ski for paint. Still deciding on colors. The last ski i painted came out great but thinking of trying some new colors

Last ski


I also bought a skat trak 16/23 for the stock pump and painted the pump with some protective textured paint. I got it off ebay for 150.

I also ordered an ada racing conversion kit. Next thing to be done is to have the 1200 waterbox cut, shortened and welded. I plan on modifying the gp1200 exhaust outlet.
The ski came with a custom steering stabilizer set up so i will need to make something custom in order to utilize the 1200 steering cable.

Does anyone know if the gp1200 stock airbox will fit in a blaster?

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[Quinc]

Sub'd!

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

The 1200 steering cable turned out to be frozen, so i went ahead and ordered a rad dudes b2 cable with the tobtek adapter. Primered the engine bay and will be priming the whole ski soon. Thinking of all black with red accents with possibly a ipd graphics kit.



Painting the engine black, with carbs, head, and exhaust red

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[Jarrett Simmons]

Primed the bottom side. Will be redoing the red, used old paint which bubbled

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[Jarrett Simmons]

Pulled the cylinder.. not so happy to see the results. Piston 3 is toast. The cylinder walls look clean. Does anyone have advice on the pro x pistons on stock bore with gasket kit vs going .25 over and having it bored?

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[Jarrett Simmons]

Also what reasons could have caused this besides a lean carb?

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[CHRISRACERX]

Probably from a lean carb. I think the fuel starts in front carb n works it way back. By the time it gets back to rear it's all leaned out. Only use the mikuni kits when rebuilding. They seal the best. One other thing to check for would be if the oil line was cracked and leaking. They get brittle over time n crack, stretch n fall off. Order 6 of the longest Oem lines n cut them to size. Make them a tad longer if you can. If your going to premix, that's 1 less thing to worry about. The pro-x pistons are made by art. Same as the Oem. Same thing, different box n $. Bore all 3 cylinders the same. They don't have too but with as much hrs it has it will freshen the bores straight. Ask your machine shop if they can bore it .10 over first to see if it cleans it up. If not then go bigger.

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

Probably from a lean carb. I think the fuel starts in front carb n works it way back. By the time it gets back to rear it's all leaned out. Only use the mikuni kits when rebuilding. They seal the best. One other thing to check for would be if the oil line was cracked and leaking. They get brittle over time n crack, stretch n fall off. Order 6 of the longest Oem lines n cut them to size. Make them a tad longer if you can. If your going to premix, that's 1 less thing to worry about. The pro-x pistons are made by art. Same as the Oem. Same thing, different box n $. Bore all 3 cylinders the same. They don't have too but with as much hrs it has it will freshen the bores straight. Ask your machine shop if they can bore it .10 over first to see if it cleans it up. If not then go bigger.

Thanks. Im gonna order 84.25 pro x pistons. Im currently rebuilding the carbs so that will solve that. Once i get the carbs ill bring it to a machine shop down the street and have em bore it. Will probably order a full gasket kit too

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[CHRISRACERX]

If you order a gasket kit, don't shy away from the WSM kits. The gaskets are same quality as Oem n there metal gaskets for Yamaha PV 800 & 1200 engines are identical. But I wouldn't use there carb kits. If you need the stock specs let me know. I have them. When I was a tech I was given these small books with all the carb, engine n electrical specs. They are like gold

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

If you order a gasket kit, don't shy away from the WSM kits. The gaskets are same quality as Oem n there metal gaskets for Yamaha PV 800 & 1200 engines are identical. But I wouldn't use there carb kits. If you need the stock specs let me know. I have them. When I was a tech I was given these small books with all the carb, engine n electrical specs. They are like gold

I went cheap at got 3 carb kits from jet ski plus which probably falls under the chinese crap category. In hindsight i would have probably gotten the mikuni kits. Im hoping to use the stock airbox. Will it fit? Also i removed the choke plates so will i need to cap the holes where the plate pins were? Ill probably end up ordering the wsm gasket kit.

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[Jarrett Simmons]

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[CHRISRACERX]

You will need to order a 3 cylinder primer assembly. It will have the plugs. Don't know if that air box will fit in the b1 hull. Might be able to bolt 3 singles on like the wr3's n early SJ's. You can find them used all day long. Make sure you pull everything apart on carbs. Fuel screws and all. Don't loose the tiny washer on the fuels crews. They fall off sometimes. Make sure the check valve in the kidney looking piece is completely flat. Kit should have a new one. Replace anyway if it is flat still. The primer is better than the choke on the 1200's. Especially if they are 97 year carbs. They had smaller choke plates and were tougher to start cold. Also if that big air box does fit. Use the velocity stacks inside. They do help

 

[ajmps1]

No replacement for displacement! Punch that sucker out!!!

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

Have ordered 84.25 pro-x pistons, oil block off and new fuel lines. Underside and engine bay have been painted, will begin painting top side this weekend

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[Jarrett Simmons]

Got it painted and starting reassemble

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[Jarrett Simmons]

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[CHRISRACERX]

Looks great. what types of paints did you use on out and inside.

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

Looks great. what types of paints did you use on out and inside.

Used Awlgrip- 545 Epoxy Primer which requires converter 1:1 and reducer
For the black exterior paint I used 62017 super jet black which also requires converter and reducer.
For the interior, I used some Snow White Awlgrip which I had left over from an old project

 

[Jarrett Simmons]

I picked up the honed and bored cylinders today. I had 2 Riva Racing Coned Filters so I ordered one more and 3 adapter plates. I have read mixed info on whether I will need to change jetting for the filters. Some say I have to use 1.5NS, 115g, 100 pilots, 135 High. I have all stock jetting currently. Riva suggested stock jetting with 1.25 turns out on the high, and 1 turn out on the low although some have said it wasnt ideal. Any feedback on running aftermarket flame arrestors with stock jetting?

 

[CHRISRACERX]

Make sure you wash your cylinders before assembly. I fill a bucket up with dish detergent n water and dunk the parts in n out a couple times. Then rinse with water. Dump bucket n redo process. I dunk n rinse at least 3x's. Then dry off with a towel n blow compressed air to complete the drying process. Then take fogging oil or 2 stroke oil and oil up the cylinder walls so they don't rust. Ready for assembly.

Jetting will be fine at stock specs with the flame arrestors. Will probably have to open up the high speed just a tad.