Custom/Hybrid Carbon fiber and resin relp

So I'm in the process of restoring a custom freestyle hull and I was hoping to get a few pointers and tips. So currently I have the bottom of the hull all sanded and I have repaired a few holes and previous patch work and now I'm in the process of smoothing everything out. I have already ordered a 6k 2x2 twill carbon fiber cloth and I plan on buying another visual, purple in layed carbon fiber cloth. My first question is should I wait till I buy my visual cloth and lay them both at once or does it matter if I lay my first cloth and let cure then lay my second cloth? (I do plan on vaccum bagging after wet layup). My next question is, after the carbon fiber has been laid, what do most people do if they want to keep it a visual carbon fiber? Should I just put a few coats of resin on top to seal it off or is there anything specific anyone is using to coat the bottom of the hull? I have some experience with laying up fiberglass and pouring resin but this is the first time I'm tackling carbon fiber so any tips and pointers that I should look for/do would be greatly appreciated.

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hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
Do the layers together for a stronger bond. To get visual from wet layup you will need to clear, sand, repeat until you're happy. If you see carbon dust stop sanding and apply more clear. Then never ride it if you want it to stay nice.

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Do the layers together for a stronger bond. To get visual from wet layup you will need to clear, sand, repeat until you're happy. If you see carbon dust stop sanding and apply more clear. Then never ride it if you want it to stay nice.

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When you say clear do you mean just clear resin or with a clear coat of paint? I have heard of people clear coating the resin, but didn't know if this would hold up properly.

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hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
You could use resin I guess. Just be a lot of work to get it slick. The epoxy I use (us composites3:1)isn't really good for glazing. It gets hot when it kicks. Leaves pinholes and inconsistencies. There's probably better resins for this. Most of the visual carbon you see these days is coming straight out of the mold looking that way.

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I use west system epoxy and I have found that it works good for achieving a nice smooth and clear finish over but my worry is that it's two viscous and will flow down any of the non horizontal faces on the bottom of the ski

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Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
West system makes resin that is UV resistant. There is also other composite clears out there that are much more durable then clear coat paint.

Why did you go with 6k? Cost?
What OZ?

All repairs need to be vaccum bagged(sounds like you are going to do that) and everything should be layup at once for the strongest chemical bond.
 
West system makes resin that is UV resistant. There is also other composite clears out there that are much more durable then clear coat paint.

Why did you go with 6k? Cost?
What OZ?

All repairs need to be vaccum bagged(sounds like you are going to do that) and everything should be layup at once for the strongest chemical bond.
It's a 6k 2x2 twill 11oz cloth, partially went with this because of cost partially because it was an impulse buy just to give me a reason to get started on my jetski.... I only have enough to do two layers on the bottom with this cloth, what carbon would you recomend for the engine compartment, and tray?

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Also what type of composite clear would you recommend? I should have corrected my self when I said clear coat I didn't mean an automotive clear coat, I'm planning on going with a WR-LPU polyurethane two part topcoat, is there something else that you would recomend that you'd consider to be better?

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im doing something similar on my superjet. us composites has some carbon on sale. i want to put a layer on the bottom of the ski and come back with several coats of resin to build it up. its the bottom so uvlight isnt really a concern. i wont be bagging anything unfortunately but ive seen it done to a friends ski and it came out nice and protected the bottom from beaching.
 
That's what I was thinking that it wouldn't be exposed to that much UV since it's the bottom but Since I'm doing all this work I want to protect it with a top coat

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Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
.. no offense, but a 22oz layup would be a complete waste of time. You said holes in the bottom.. unless I miss understood something. Most hulls are 60-100oz below the engine. Any structure area, I never go less the 60oz layup. When bagging, not really any point in messing with anything less then atleast 19oz+ material. I personally only buy 12k. I also do it professionally, time is money and laying up more layers eats up a lot of time.
 
.. no offense, but a 22oz layup would be a complete waste of time. You said holes in the bottom.. unless I miss understood something. Most hulls are 60-100oz below the engine. Any structure area, I never go less the 60oz layup. When bagging, not really any point in messing with anything less then atleast 19oz+ material. I personally only buy 12k. I also do it professionally, time is money and laying up more layers eats up a lot of time.
Oh I didn't mention I'll be laying carbon fiber in the engine compartment and tray. In the engine compartment I'll be laying 2 layers on the very bottom and then a layer around the whole engine compartment. And for the tray I'll be doing 3 layers. For both of those I'll be using 12k 2x2 twill 19oz carbon.

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Question, how many layers should I lay for the tray, I plan on pouring expanding foam then sanding it to shape and laying carbon over it. Is that 60-100oz you mentioned a good guide line or should I go heavier?

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Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
There is no tray, ie your building it from scratch?
Also, how much do you weigh?
 
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