Case bolt stuck
- Thread starter shank
- Start date
Freakrider
X247
- Location
- Tampa Bay area
Propane torch carefully heat up aluminum area around bolt and use vise grips. You can first let PB Blaster or Kano Kroil penetrating oil to help assist but the proper applied heat is number one.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Take it to a machine shop. They can timecert it if they have to drill it out.
I would go for the hammer. You need to block the back of the case behind the bolt and use a smallish hammer with firm but not smashing hits to the top of the bolt multiple times. If you can get someone to help and also have vice grips on the bolt putting pressure on it in the undo direction you might get a win. The idea is to jar it enough to break the hold of the corrosion/whatever is inside.
It works. But use caution with the case material.
It works. But use caution with the case material.
- Location
- Maine
My preferred method would be:
Heat up the aluminum near the bolt to no more than 600 F with a torch and apply oil to the threads and let it cool. Do this a few times.
Heat it one last time and either use a stud extractor and an impact gun or muckle onto ot with vise grips and give it some hits with a hammer to try and unscrew it. At first you just want to get a little movement. Then work that movement back and forth (tighten and loosen) to break up the corrosion. After a bit you will be able to loosen it more and more. Unscrew it. If it gets stiff again work the bolt back and forth again until it loosens up.
I can't really relay the virtues of using impact guns when working on old stuff enough. I tore down a neglected '96 engine yesterday with a battery impact and corded impact and didn't have trouble with any bolts and nothing broke. I was using a Milwaukee m12 fuel 3/8 impact for most of it and it is a great little tool. Expensive but worth it if you do a lot of wrenching.
Heat up the aluminum near the bolt to no more than 600 F with a torch and apply oil to the threads and let it cool. Do this a few times.
Heat it one last time and either use a stud extractor and an impact gun or muckle onto ot with vise grips and give it some hits with a hammer to try and unscrew it. At first you just want to get a little movement. Then work that movement back and forth (tighten and loosen) to break up the corrosion. After a bit you will be able to loosen it more and more. Unscrew it. If it gets stiff again work the bolt back and forth again until it loosens up.
I can't really relay the virtues of using impact guns when working on old stuff enough. I tore down a neglected '96 engine yesterday with a battery impact and corded impact and didn't have trouble with any bolts and nothing broke. I was using a Milwaukee m12 fuel 3/8 impact for most of it and it is a great little tool. Expensive but worth it if you do a lot of wrenching.
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- Location
- California
I have had the opposite experience with impact guns. Slow steady pressure works for me. The times I have tried the impact on heads, cases and cylinders it just shears the stainless bolts at the threads.
- Location
- Los Gatos, CA
Wow, what a bear. Glad you got it out without case damage.
You can also try 50/50 ATF and Acetone as penetrating oil if you have another stuck bolt.
You can also try 50/50 ATF and Acetone as penetrating oil if you have another stuck bolt.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
