Chopping a ski

Been looking at ski chopping the rear, Thought I would ask a few questions, and if I like the idea I have a project for my weekend… Sorry about all the q's at late, x-2s are new 2 me...
1: what is the advantage.
2: what is the process, of doing it. Best way, tools used, amount to take off etc..
5:how do you cut the ride plate to suit..
 

Winter X2

Winter X2
Location
Harrisburg, PA
I chopped my ski two weeks ago. I used a Sawzall!!! I took 2", but some people only take 1-3/4". The advantage of the shorter cut is that you won't get into the foam on the back. Nothing that a little marine tex won't fix though. Not sure of the advantages, because I haven't rode mine yet, but I heard they make a big difference. Just make sure that you have a straight cut. Use and level or straight edge and mark it. Then, Start chopping!!! As far as the ride plate is concerned, that is in my future. I will keep an eye on this thread to see what other members have to say about that. Good Luck!!
 

Wilke

X2 stole my life
Location
Indialantic, FL
Been looking at ski chopping the rear, Thought I would ask a few questions, and if I like the idea I have a project for my weekend… Sorry about all the q's at late, x-2s are new 2 me...
1: what is the advantage.
Loosens up the rear of the ski, makes turning quicker/sharper. Disasvantange is you lose some high speed stability.
2: what is the process, of doing it. Best way, tools used, amount to take off etc..
I used a hand saw, marked it off and cut away. A sawzall would probably be best/easiest. Anywhere between 1-1/2" and 3" has been done. The more you take off the looser/less stable it gets.
5:how do you cut the ride plate to suit..
Cut it flush with the rear of the ski to start. Then if you want you can reverse D cut it later.

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Location
Barrie, ON
The best thing to use to cut it is a cutting disk on your grinder. Cuts really easy and leaves a smooth edge. You can also use the same cutting disk to cut the rideplate.
 

Wilke

X2 stole my life
Location
Indialantic, FL
Just don't inhale, lots of dust that way I'd assume. I actually used the hand saw and then went back with the dremel to clean up the edges, probably took 3-4 times longer then if I had the right tools on hand though (make do with what ya got).
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
Just don't inhale, lots of dust that way I'd assume. I actually used the hand saw and then went back with the dremel to clean up the edges, probably took 3-4 times longer then if I had the right tools on hand though (make do with what ya got).


Respirator is MANDATORY for the grinder method. You'll be dead before you finish if not....LOL
 

Octane_114

LeT tHe gOOd tImEs RoLL
Location
Charleston S.C.
i second that... grider is the best way, must use respirator, only set back depending on your riding when cut the back it turns real sharp and quick... you can no longer take long curving turns... i have two skis on lake ski one surf ski i only cut 2 inches off of surf ski...
 
ok so once you cut it do you need to glass or resen it?? and do most people put a new eyelet hole for trailer transport, so 1 3/4 would be best... Does anyone have pictures of the rideplate with the d-cut.?? (STOCK RIDE PLATE RIGHT!!) no reason to get an aftermarket 1?
 
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shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
More then likely the green goo they used to glue the topdeck to the bottom will be brittle as hell. So even if you dont hit foam you will get alot of micro canyons where the top and bottom meet. I would always seal this seam up with EPOXY, even if you dont hit foam. Just my opinion though.
 
i cut mine 3 inches. I used a circular saw with a fine toothed blade ( like those used for cutting vynal siding) fliped the ski upside down on some sawhorses, and as long as you enter the cut at 90" it will be smooth and VERY straight. i sealed it back up with some chopped fiberglass and resin, then sanded smooth. the cut makes the ski pop the nose out easier, also turns are snappeier. kinda bouncy at speed, and less stable, its better for freestyle and playing around, not so great if you want to build a speed machine. the deeper cut also makes it super easy to install a scupper.

i cut my stock rideplate down with a sawzall, and then used a body grinder to smooth it out. since i cut out the back two mounting holes, i had to use some super strong RTV to "glue" the plate in.
 
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