SX/SXi/SXi Pro Clearing water from exhaust

JHD

Site Supporter
Location
Colorado
I always blow out the exhaust before leaving the lake then again at home. My SJ blows dry the first run at home but I still get moisture out of the sxi after 5 or more runs. It won't shoot water but I can feel the moisture on my hand and see trace amounts on the ground. Seems that I can't get it to blow 100% dry. Is this typical? Is there be a pool in the water box causing this? Is this enough moisture to worry about over the winter or do I need to run again and again and again until it's totally dry?
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
If you are seriously worried about it, fog the motor with fogging oil then remove the hose going to the waterbox and stuff a rag into the exhaust stinger.
 
Location
dfw
I always blow out the exhaust before leaving the lake then again at home. My SJ blows dry the first run at home but I still get moisture out of the sxi after 5 or more runs. It won't shoot water but I can feel the moisture on my hand and see trace amounts on the ground. Seems that I can't get it to blow 100% dry. Is this typical? Is there be a pool in the water box causing this? Is this enough moisture to worry about over the winter or do I need to run again and again and again until it's totally dry?

PWC exhaust systems do not completely drain. You should dry rev it until the head gets too hot to touch for more than a second. Do it once at the lake and once at home for good results. This method and using TCW3 oil will minimize rust. Always prop the hood open until the hull is completely dry or else your ski will become a greenhouse.
 

JHD

Site Supporter
Location
Colorado
Thanks guys. I vacuum out any water in the hull and always leave the hood off or open. Probably never ran it long enough to get the head that hot. Maybe 5-10 seconds.
 
Location
dfw
Thanks guys. I vacuum out any water in the hull and always leave the hood off or open. Probably never ran it long enough to get the head that hot. Maybe 5-10 seconds.

You can hold full throttle for 20-60 seconds before it gets hot enough. Dont try it with a cold engine because afterfires are more severe and can blow a hose off, or burst a waterbox. Avoid holding steady part throttle because it heats up a lot faster and will usually do a diesel runaway. People on the beach will think you're crazy for doing 3x the "normal" blow out but it does wonders for corrosion prevention.
 

550/440

Maybe I'll get it all the way around NEXT time....
Location
Arizona!
Yeah, always clear your engine by holding it full throttle for 20-60 seconds.




Really though, please do not do this. A couple quick revs is all you should need.
 
Location
dfw
Yeah, always clear your engine by holding it full throttle for 20-60 seconds.




Really though, please do not do this. A couple quick revs is all you should need.

It doesnt do a very good job of clearing out water or getting additional oil into the engine and exhaust. Crack open several old engines and corrosion issues become obvious. The conventional wisdom of the group has completely missed this.
 
Last edited:
Location
Australia
I've always been overly worried about water getting back to the cylinders and crank case via daily evaporation/condensation cycles.
So I've been trying out an idea for a few months now. After flushing and running the motor dry a few times I've been ventilating from the flush fitting with a small computer fan (graphics card size) mounted in a plastic junction box. It's powered from the same 12V trickle charger connected to the battery during periods of non use. After a couple of weeks I can start the motor and get no water from the exhaust.
The idea is that air is continually drawn back through the exhaust and also through the water galleries which eventually dries these areas out.
For the first few days it makes my garage smell very 2 strokey.
Pedantic? Yep, but I don't have to worry about internal corrosion either.
Apart from the smell I can't think of any adverse effects from doing this.
 

Poizen

Mical
Site Supporter
Location
South Africa
Seriously all abit over board

Couple blips and spray engine bay with q20/water repellant

No need to get so technical
 
Location
dfw
I've always been overly worried about water getting back to the cylinders and crank case via daily evaporation/condensation cycles.
So I've been trying out an idea for a few months now. After flushing and running the motor dry a few times I've been ventilating from the flush fitting with a small computer fan (graphics card size) mounted in a plastic junction box. It's powered from the same 12V trickle charger connected to the battery during periods of non use. After a couple of weeks I can start the motor and get no water from the exhaust.
The idea is that air is continually drawn back through the exhaust and also through the water galleries which eventually dries these areas out.
For the first few days it makes my garage smell very 2 strokey.
Pedantic? Yep, but I don't have to worry about internal corrosion either.
Apart from the smell I can't think of any adverse effects from doing this.

Cheap and easy solution. It may be easier to mount the fan in a cork and plug it into the exhaust outlet. This way the engine would dry out before the exhaust.
 
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