Connecting rod bearing failure.

Blew out a rear crank seal. Upon disassembly I noticed the crank is super noisy, especially the connecting rod bearings. Both rods have several bearings with stress "fractures". What causes this? High compression, age?
 

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Interesting. Bad winterization? Maybe they were there when I got the crank. Normal humidity in my area is about 10 percent. Only used on the river. How can I prevent this in the future when I get a new crank?
 
Location
dfw
Use TCW3 oil and get the engine hot on the trailer before you leave the lake and again when you get home. Almost no jetskier does this thoroughly enough, thats why almost all cranks out there are rusty. Make sure you store it with the hood cracked open. Unlike an outboard, our exhausts and engine compartments hold water so extra precautions are needed to prevent corrosion.
 
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Use TCW3 oil and get the engine hot on the trailer before you leave the lake and again when you get home. Almost no jetskier does this thoroughly enough, thats why almost all cranks out there are rusty. Make sure you store it with the hood cracked open. Unlike an outboard, our exhausts and engine compartments hold water so extra precautions are needed to prevent corrosion.
I've been running Maxima 927 since 2009. Hoods always come off once home. Engine bay is usually dry within the hour as the outside temp is usually 110-120⁰ and about 10 percent humidity.
 
Location
dfw
One of the great aspects of Arizona! Florida may be more of a challenge. Here in north central Texas, its not terrible but I do have to make an effort to keep everything as dry as possible. I have found plenty of skis in this area that have been destroyed because of careless storage. Maxima 927 is alcohol, and to a large extent water soluble. I wouldn't use it if I lived on the coast.
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
While water ingestion and corrosion play a very large role in crank failures.
if you popped the rear seals out ? Your crank has developed fairly large deflection.
this is from wear. High compression, excessive timing advance. Lean - high rpm running, and water ingestion are all leading causes.
as suggested, running quality 2-stroke oil will give longest service life. High compression, and excessive ignition timing work hardest at shortening life span. You need to find the performance balance to fit your riding objectives. Judging by the ski photo in your avatar, you live for high comp and strong timing to do the tricks your after. Sorry to say, its the name of the game.

for discussions sake, what is your comp? What ignition? And about how old is your crank? Is it a stroker?

P
 

bird

walking on water
Site Supporter
Use TCW3 oil and get the engine hot on the trailer before you leave the lake and again when you get home. Almost no jetskier does this thoroughly enough, thats why almost all cranks out there are rusty. Make sure you store it with the hood cracked open. Unlike an outboard, our exhausts and engine compartments hold water so extra precautions are needed to prevent corrosion.
My only run by me SXR crank was still super smooth bearing wise after 1200 hours. There is no reason to get the engine hot at home again.... I blow out my water box on the trailer/float after running it.
Even running Amsoil Dominator, which is NOT TCW3 rated(probably exceeds it by leaps and bounds), my crank was oily when I took it out. I had the perfect little patch of oil that drained to the bottom of the case as well. I did not find any signs of corrosion or rust. Riding in super humid Wisconsin Summers, or freezing temps with condensation.

I've been running Maxima 927 since 2009. Hoods always come off once home. Engine bay is usually dry within the hour as the outside temp is usually 110-120⁰ and about 10 percent humidity.
I'm going with the bearings bad before you installed this crank.
 
While water ingestion and corrosion play a very large role in crank failures.
if you popped the rear seals out ? Your crank has developed fairly large deflection.
this is from wear. High compression, excessive timing advance. Lean - high rpm running, and water ingestion are all leading causes.
as suggested, running quality 2-stroke oil will give longest service life. High compression, and excessive ignition timing work hardest at shortening life span. You need to find the performance balance to fit your riding objectives. Judging by the ski photo in your avatar, you live for high comp and strong timing to do the tricks your after. Sorry to say, its the name of the game.

for discussions sake, what is your comp? What ignition? And about how old is your crank? Is it a stroker?

P
Different ski than in the photo. This was out of a superjet. Newmiller machining head, just tested it after the seal popped at 180psi. Has a MSD enhancer module. I use the SJ mainly to chase my wife around on her STX15F.
 
My only run by me SXR crank was still super smooth bearing wise after 1200 hours. There is no reason to get the engine hot at home again.... I blow out my water box on the trailer/float after running it.
Even running Amsoil Dominator, which is NOT TCW3 rated(probably exceeds it by leaps and bounds), my crank was oily when I took it out. I had the perfect little patch of oil that drained to the bottom of the case as well. I did not find any signs of corrosion or rust. Riding in super humid Wisconsin Summers, or freezing temps with condensation.


I'm going with the bearings bad before you installed this crank.
That's what I'm thinking. Used crank, I just tossed it in when I built this ski.
 
Location
dfw
Racing oils are made to work at high temps and the more you pay the less petroleum they tend to have. Cheap boat oil has the most corrosion protection and corrosion tends to be a big killer of PWC. Very few riders will be around long enough to ever see this with their own eyes.
 
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