Super Jet Cranks - which way to go?

[Pablo]

I've asked some guys that are "in the know", but I wanted to get some more input from guys out there that have gone the different routes and get your experiences. I'm replacing my crank...and rebuilding my oem. Those that have swapped out cranks let me in on how the aftermarket cranks have survived. I've read lots of horror stories about every type of crank (SBT, Hotrod, oem too). I'm gonna have my oem crank rebuilt no matter what, but really want to hear from u guys that are running the aftermarkets and those that are running rebuilt oem's. Give me all the dirt because I'm putting this in a ss big bore billet cylinder/aftermarket cases.

 

[Idok]

OEM all the way...no question

 

[Freakrider]

The big diference is china or taiwan bearings vs oem Seiko Koyo Japanese hard as hell steel bearings !

Hotrods say made in Taiwan right on the box...I was shocked when it arrived and then it had way too much clearence in the rod bearing to run...I returned it and bought oem...

I would rather have a good used low hour oem crank than a new china bearing crank...

 

[tightithrash]

hot rods..... are not the same as the once were..... ask Gomez.

I say OEM or nothing also BUT....... i do have an SBT Crank in my old motor that i ran in my yellow superjet since 07-22-2009 that my brother is now running in his current ski.... had tons o tons of water ingestion and plain sunk.... like todos santos for example.... shes still goin! i pulled the cases to check the crank before we installed it in his ski and everything was good. i guess its hit or miss with SBT but that is my experience. its in a limited 701 and i dont think i would run one in a Big Bore motor.

ive also recently herd that WSM is coming out with cranks i herd from japan that are the same price as SBTs but no core needed. flat out brand new crank. but judging from WSMs previous quality.... could be iffy

 

[shawn_NJ]

OEM all the way...no question

^^^^^^ What he said!

 

[Pablo]

I agree OEM has got to be the best. New OEM is re-donk-ulous for price, but piece of mind is priceless. I have my OEM crank that for sure needs rebuilt. One of my boys hooked me up with a good, used OEM crank. You can buy a new SBT for less than $300 shipped or I can have a hotrods crank for $400 shipped. I've been told WSM is crap. I've also been told the bearing issue has been resolved at Hotrods by non-china bearings. On the flip side of that, I've know a few peeps that have bought an OEM crank and had that fail as well. My thought is: a decent, used OEM crank any better or worse than a new Hotrod or SBT? Doubt I'll try the aftermarket route. I'm changing cranks due to OEM failure. I was swapping cases and had to pull the top end for the swap and found my top end bearings on one rod was shot. It was still functioning, but I was lucky to be making the swap because I doubt I'd have made it another month on that bearing. The bearing rods just fell out of the cage when I pulled the wrist pin. Literally disentegrated in my hands. Scarey but lucky for me.

 

[Matt_E]

The issue with Hot Rods extends past the bearings. The webs are questionable and have been known to crack.

 

[chriselmore_1]

oem or rad

 

[Idok]

I agree OEM has got to be the best. New OEM is re-donk-ulous for price, but piece of mind is priceless. I have my OEM crank that for sure needs rebuilt. One of my boys hooked me up with a good, used OEM crank. You can buy a new SBT for less than $300 shipped or I can have a hotrods crank for $400 shipped. I've been told WSM is crap. I've also been told the bearing issue has been resolved at Hotrods by non-china bearings. On the flip side of that, I've know a few peeps that have bought an OEM crank and had that fail as well. My thought is: a decent, used OEM crank any better or worse than a new Hotrod or SBT? Doubt I'll try the aftermarket route. I'm changing cranks due to OEM failure. I was swapping cases and had to pull the top end for the swap and found my top end bearings on one rod was shot. It was still functioning, but I was lucky to be making the swap because I doubt I'd have made it another month on that bearing. The bearing rods just fell out of the cage when I pulled the wrist pin. Literally disentegrated in my hands. Scarey but lucky for me.

u ride a full carbon boat, and are ordering a full a/m motor setup.....you are not allowed to use the OE is too expensive excuse



sbt makes awesome cranks as well....I wouodnt hesitate to build up a nice LTD motor with one......but for the SS beasts, OEM only

 

[tightithrash]

u ride a full carbon boat, and are ordering a full a/m motor setup.....you are not allowed to use the OE is too expensive excuse



sbt makes awesome cranks as well....I wouodnt hesitate to build up a nice LTD motor with one......but for the SS beasts, OEM only

exactly

 

[McDog]

He rides a fiberglass boat. He didn't spring for the carbon. He did upgrade to a billet powervalve ss motor but he got it on the cheap and has had nothing but bad luck with it.

 

[Pablo]

quit telling people I don't have a carbon boat...ur a carbon snob. i'm gonna go tell the mods to give you an infraction.

He rides a fiberglass boat. He didn't spring for the carbon. He did upgrade to a billet powervalve ss motor but he got it on the cheap and has had nothing but bad luck with it.

 

[Waternut]

Let me make sure I understand everyone correctly here... You can pick a used OEM crank on the boards for $100-$150 that will have smooth bearings and will be dimensionally good. You can get a rebuilt crank for $300-$400 from various different places with new bearings. Lastly, you can get a brand new OEM crank for $900 and that's what everyone is saying is the no brainer way to go??

 

[kevbo]

Shop around, an OEM 760 crank is less than 900. Parker was selling them for 481 a couple of years ago. Greater Yamaha was also cheap.

 

[Freakrider]

Never gamble with less than a low hour oem crank with ported cyl/cases that might get ruined...

 

[waterfreak]

a slightly used OEM crank can be add on the cheap. then, you just get it trued and welded and your a star!

 

[Pablo]

Parker's running from $700 for a 760 crank and $940 for a 650 or 701 crank. Most places I've checked are quoting 1K+ for new, OEM crank.

Shop around, an OEM 760 crank is less than 900. Parker was selling them for 481 a couple of years ago. Greater Yamaha was also cheap.

 

[Pablo]

U got one? I'm ur boy if u do. I'm quoted $385 for rebuild on my current crank, plus $40 shipping for both ways, but I'm out of a crank for about 3 weeks. I'd like to send it off and buy another for my build now.

a slightly used OEM crank can be add on the cheap. then, you just get it trued and welded and your a star!

 

[motoman96]

Have you tried falicon or Art? Art rebuilt my stroker crank with new rods and bearings for WAY less then 385.

 

[waterfreak]

U got one? I'm ur boy if u do. I'm quoted $385 for rebuild on my current crank, plus $40 shipping for both ways, but I'm out of a crank for about 3 weeks. I'd like to send it off and buy another for my build now.

sorry bro!, I don't have one right now...check flea bay, i saw some guys in cali that rebuild cranks with all oem yamaha bearings and rods