DASA 850 noise

I bought a new ski in March, rode it once in July, and then started making the noise in the video. I suspected the bendix was fried. Finally pulled the flywheel cover off last night (home remodel and two kids 3 and under) and seemed like the bendix was loose/had some play. I didn’t see any bushings or the spring that goes in between the cover and bendix. Can anyone confirm my suspicion of needing a new bendix? Does a DASA motor use the same bendix as a Yamaha?

Thanks for the help

(Working on uploading video)
 

Attachments

  • 1796FC8E-5569-41E9-8947-A869635740CF.jpeg
    1796FC8E-5569-41E9-8947-A869635740CF.jpeg
    182.8 KB · Views: 69
Location
Stockton
Disregard if your aware of this already. Those TL lightened flywheels like to spin the ring gear around the flywheel hub if they are not pinned in 2 places. Even when pinned they can spin…. You can paint mark the ring gear to flywheel and verify it’s not spinning when cranking…
 
Disregard if your aware of this already. Those TL lightened flywheels like to spin the ring gear around the flywheel hub if they are not pinned in 2 places. Even when pinned they can spin…. You can paint mark the ring gear to flywheel and verify it’s not spinning when cranking…
Definitely wasn't aware. This is my first TL set up and big motor so all of this is different to me. It makes me cringe to attempt to start the ski when I know that noise is coming. Just feels like I am going to snap something. Is there another way to test this?
 
I didn’t see the washer on the exterior but did find my spring inside the cover. Need to pull the flywheel to see what the backside looks like. I did find some metal shavings in the flywheel cover. Not much; is that normal?
 

Attachments

  • E26202A8-4373-436E-9D69-88E8000B2FFC.jpeg
    E26202A8-4373-436E-9D69-88E8000B2FFC.jpeg
    174.7 KB · Views: 52
Location
Stockton
Definitely wasn't aware. This is my first TL set up and big motor so all of this is different to me. It makes me cringe to attempt to start the ski when I know that noise is coming. Just feels like I am going to snap something. Is there another way to test this?
No other way that iam aware of, BUT, you can visually look at the flywheel, look to see if gear was pinned to the hub when it was lightened. They drill a small hole 180 degrees apart, half the hole is on the hub and the other half is on the toothed ring gear, then they drive in a small roll pin…. Look for thise roll pins and if the half holes are walking away from each other.. if it’s not pinned then you’ll have to mark the hub and ring gear and crank the engine a few times to see if the ring gear is advancing… You should probably verify this before you remove the flywheel.

Also I follow the MSD instructions and boil the flywheel for 5 minutes to pre expand the hub before installation, help prevent keyway cracks.. The keyway roof is also shaped like a radius to help but it will grab the keyway and you gotta dig the keyway out of the flywheel once it’s removed.. least on mine it does.. also boil time is just from memory, I can double check fir you later..

I’ve found those shavings in mine too..but my bendix needed a rebuild kit.. but seems I always see that too
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
check the ring gear and the starter side of the bendix.
Last time I had a similar issue and metal shavings it was the starter side gear on the bendix, I had a slightly rounded off tooth that made my engine sound like a jackhammer grinder hybrid.
 
Before I fudge anything up, I was trying to remove the flywheel and it started to get pretty tight to turn the wrench and then the flywheel would turn with each crank of the wrench; what am I doing wrong if anything here? Just using a cheap flywheel remover? The bolt seemed to be screwing in with each crank of the wrench too. Should I use a different head attachment on the puller?
 

Attachments

  • 90E1165E-9581-4610-88A6-568448CE9CB0.jpeg
    90E1165E-9581-4610-88A6-568448CE9CB0.jpeg
    131.5 KB · Views: 35
  • 0A2F38EE-036F-43D3-9471-C6F14C98A8C8.jpeg
    0A2F38EE-036F-43D3-9471-C6F14C98A8C8.jpeg
    90.6 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
It’ll get tight before it pops, that’s normal.
I typically remove the bolt and use a smaller socket cap bolt In the snout of the crank for my puller bolt to sit on, prevents thread and snout damage.
If your using the flyhweel lock tool properly and it’s still spinning the flywheel then your ring gear sounds like it’s stripped. You’ll have to put a rope down your sparkplug
Hole and lock the motor up that way to keep the crank from spinning.
 
i also do what dylan said about the socket on the crank snout. Get the puller tight and then whack the end of the puller bolt with a hammer a few times. the shock helps it pop.
 
Perfect! Thanks for the tip on the socket. I will try that tonight.

I put the flywheel locker on afterwards but then didnt crank down anymore...figured I would make the post before I screwed something up.
 
You don't ever straight pull a taper fit. You hand tighten. Tap the end with a brass hammer. Tighten more. Brass hammer. Tighten more. I've never had one not pop. Cavemen reefing the puller down is why so many things get fubar
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Before I fudge anything up, I was trying to remove the flywheel and it started to get pretty tight to turn the wrench and then the flywheel would turn with each crank of the wrench; what am I doing wrong if anything here? Just using a cheap flywheel remover? The bolt seemed to be screwing in with each crank of the wrench too. Should I use a different head attachment on the puller?
You can put a 17mm open end wrench on the end of the flywheel bolt and it will keep the flywheel from moving.
 
Finally got a new bendix installed and everything buttoned back up...noise is still there. Put my ear closer and sounds like the starter is fried. Sounds like a winch when its engaged. Does a DASA motor use a OEM yamaha starter or is there a better option? Thanks!
 
Top Bottom