Dry Pipe Questions

[Marc Leduc]

Recently purchased my first SXR 800. It came with the stock exhaust installed and a dry pipe (not installed because he said an O-ring went). I took it out with the stock exhaust and it ran great, but I thought I would try out the dry pipe this weekend. I re jetted the carbs, and installed the pipe (already had the hood insert, etc..). It was not easy to get a good seal at the O-rings and initially I had some smoke and sludge coming out and broke the silicon sleeve. I seemed to have solved that problem so I took it out for a test spin today.

The ski rode fine no problems, although I didn't really push it very hard at all. I then took it to the shore to check under the hood and noted that it was very hot where it hooks up to the waterbox. Did some trouble shooting and although it definitely had water flow while, the pressure didn't seen to be high enough (at idle speeds) to get water to the bypass tubing to go to the waterbox.

My question for everyone...is the dry pipe worth all this hastle, and should the water pressure to the pipe be higher? I hooked a hose up to the inflow and there was plenty of pressure out the pisser and to the water box. So I am wondering if this is normal and you only really get good flow to the waterbox at higher RPM's or if my inflow tubing needs to be larger, or any other advice people may have. I am looking forward to enjoying this ski for a good many years.

Thanks!

 

[aqualocos]

My opinion....

Yes that pipe rocks and rips your arms out!
Sure there is more presure in the cooling when u hit it hard...but usually we use a presure valve to let water true only with more presure from pump you dont want water in there when your ad low rpms...i had a 160 jet in the stinger...u can setup a dual cooling to cool engine and exhaust separately...the coupler is a pain in the ass but worth it use factory drypipe hd coupler kit!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk

 

[user_error]

Before you go and rail it hard I recommend cleaning out the small jet in the end of the pipe, the one that feeds the waterbox. Depending on water temp in your area you can run anywhere from a 160 to a 200 jet.

I also recommend replacing the factory dry pipe coupler with a oem kawasaki coupler from a 650sx or x2. The black rubber coupler that mates the oem exhaust chamber to the stinger. Put that piece on and you will not have any sludge or exhaust leakage.

Lastly, when using/installing the dry pipe I have only ever used two o-rings, not all 3. Use the one that sits on the bottom of the manifold and the one that sits in the outer ring of the pipe. When you install the pipe apply some high temperature silicone into the end of the pipe (where the o-rings sit) and press the pipe and manifold together with the silicone in there. This will seal it completely, along with the kawi coupler. Let the silicone dry before riding.

Wash rinse repeat

 

[Marc Leduc]

Before you go and rail it hard I recommend cleaning out the small jet in the end of the pipe, the one that feeds the waterbox. Depending on water temp in your area you can run anywhere from a 160 to a 200 jet.

I also recommend replacing the factory dry pipe coupler with a oem kawasaki coupler from a 650sx or x2. The black rubber coupler that mates the oem exhaust chamber to the stinger. Put that piece on and you will not have any sludge or exhaust leakage.

Lastly, when using/installing the dry pipe I have only ever used two o-rings, not all 3. Use the one that sits on the bottom of the manifold and the one that sits in the outer ring of the pipe. When you install the pipe apply some high temperature silicone into the end of the pipe (where the o-rings sit) and press the pipe and manifold together with the silicone in there. This will seal it completely, along with the kawi coupler. Let the silicone dry before riding.

Wash rinse repeat

Thanks for the info. Do you usually get any flow through the bypass tubing to the jet at idle speeds? I am guessing that is normal but I wanna make sure. Thanks