! EME1000 My Pulse Line Has Water In It!

W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
I bought a EME Ski with a EME 1000 in it two years ago. Due to work and various issues I only rode it twice. It ran strong and was fun those days. No hard crashes, no sinking, great power. I cleaned it nicely and put it away for just over a year. It was fogged.

I put fresh fuel lines and fuel in it last week and it started right up. It didn't idle well like it did before - it idled very high and a little rough but I figured that was air in the fuel lines (I could see some bubbles). I headed for the lake that afternoon and when I got it in the water it wouldn't turn all the way over when I tried to start it. I was thinking that maybe my starter had cooked...

I went to work for a week and ordered a OEM starter. I was going to change it out today. I pulled my tank and the flywheel cover off just to look around to make sure all of the teeth were there and the bendix looked OK. It was bone dry in the flywheel case and everything seemed to be in order. I pulled the plugs, and they looked OK - oily, but OK. With the plugs out I turned the flywheel by hand. The motor turns smooth and easy. As I was looking around I noticed what appeared to be a slug of water in my pulse line! It was. I unhooked the carb side of the line and lowered it below the block and some water ran out. I cranked the flywheel by hand and more water would shoot out with each pulse. I probably got at least a cup of water out of the pulse line before I stopped....

What is the next step here? I didn't get water in the engine due to a major mishap so I have a case leak somewhere? I should do a case leakdown test next and see if I can find a leak? Do I need to split the whole case and look at the crank for rust, etc?
 
kurtwolff

kurtwolff

Location
Mooresville, NC
If you are blowing water out of a pulse line you have water in your engine. Need to turn it over with plugs out and see what blows out, then get it running ASAP...
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
@amitchell I guess that means I get to learn more about jet ski engines than I ever have. I don't have much experience, and I have never pulled a crank out so - hopefully I can lean on some of the board members for assistance. I have a SJ manual and an Octane manual. Between the two I hope it all makes sense. Today I'll pull the motor out.

It was a LOT of water. I would guess it is a well over a pint now. I have it almost upside down with the plugs out and the carbs removed. How much water is residual in the exhaust system? I can't figure out how this would happen. If you took a ski like this and put it up against a wall on it's tail (I didn't do this) would this happen? How disappointing.
 
amitchell

amitchell

Location
Victoria BC
Yeah if you stood the ski up that could happen for sure.

I was reading a thread the other day, it was said that one of the cons of a lay down style of pipe like your power factor is that water can potentially back flow into the engine. Who knows if that was the cause.

Its always good practice to blow out the engine well when removed from the water.

Do a leak down test before you split it apart, to see if it did have a leak. Then do one at assembly again.

This manual should get you started.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/d09ct9u1plmros1/Yamaha+Superjet+Service+Manual.pdf
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Agree with ^. I would plan for a crank rebuild or a replacement and not risk destroying a cylinder, head or cases...in addition to the crank. Unless ur pockets are deep and u don't mind risking the entire engine id leak down test it and do some crank work. That sucks like he77 though.
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
So this is looking like a complete tear down, yes? Starting with the head, just keep taking pieces off layer by layer?

While I have it apart, should I change anything else since I'm in there? Rings? I don't even know what gaskets, etc this engine uses. Thanks for the support guys. I'll post some pics once it is all apart. Who can do the crank rebuild?
 
amitchell

amitchell

Location
Victoria BC
Yes, full tear down. Change everything that needs changing... new gaskets and oem crank seals. Ask EME about crank rebuild, and potential boring if needed. You don't know until its apart and people see pics though.

While your at it rebuild those carbs and do new fuel filters and lines if needed. Check midshaft and pump bearings/seals while the engine is out. You are better off freshening it all up in one go and not worrying about it for a while.
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
I bought this as a "fresh build".... so I was hoping to get a good season or two of real riding on it before I had to go this far. The initial leakdown test was good. Pressurized to 8psi. 10min later it was at 6psi. It does look like there may be a crack in the case. Some grey oil water was seeping out. This is the FWD L side just ahead of the boss where the pump water enters the engine.
DSC_0477.JPG
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
I got the head off, easily enough. O-rings look good. Cooling passages are clear. DSC_0481.JPG

What is the best way to split the cylinders from the lower case? There is some sort of black rubbery sealant. Is there a puller type tool that will run on the studs?
 
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speedysprocket

speedysprocket

Alex
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Just find a couple points where you can carefully pry between the case and cylinder and go back and forth to carefully break that seal. Don't pry on the mating surfaces of the cylinder or cases.
And DO NOT have your cylinders bored. They are nikasil and likely still fine as they don't rust. New ring for sure though. Cylinder base gaskets and crank seals are standard Polaris 777 parts you can order online or from a local Polaris dealer. Call EME about rings, or if you know the piston size, EME gets those parts from The Crank Shop in Vermont. They're a snowmobile place and the ones who actually cast those cylinders.
Sorry about your water luck, though.
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
I appreciate the support of everyone here. I'm super bummed... but hopefully I'll learn a lot and get this thing up and running quick. Reading the Octane manual it says that honing/deglazing needs to be done in the cylinders before new rings so they can break in with the honed (roughened) cylinder surface keeping a slightly more oil ubricated surface for the new rings? Is that true with the Nikasil?
 
speedysprocket

speedysprocket

Alex
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Wumpscut223 said:
I appreciate the support of everyone here. I'm super bummed... but hopefully I'll learn a lot and get this thing up and running quick. Reading the Octane manual it says that honing/deglazing needs to be done in the cylinders before new rings so they can break in with the honed (roughened) cylinder surface keeping a slightly more oil ubricated surface for the new rings? Is that true with the Nikasil?
Click to expand...
NO! Those aren't stock Octane cylinders (steel bores). Do not attempt to hone! Take better pictures of the bores and post them. And tell us if there are any grooves in the walls. They should be ok.
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
@speedysprocket I am used to following manuals. I'm not use to "sorta" following manuals. I won't be doing any honing. I'll be finishing the teardown today or tomorrow. Lots of pics to come. Cylinder walls and rings look good to me for now.
 
W

Wumpscut223

Location
New Orleans
@amitchell Yes, no rust in the cylinders, domes, pistons, wrist pins, upper bearings.... I haven't split the case that holds the crank yet. I just need to figure out the right part numbers and what to order. What are the correct needle bearings for the wrist pins? What are the right c clips? What rings do I get? etc... I'm kinda lost since there is no manual and I wasn't the original builder.

I'd like to ship the crank out tomorrow. I still don't know who to trust with this rebuild. They will change the bearings, make sure the crank is true and change the connecting rods (they are rusty)? I assume with this level of horsepower I need it pinned or welded?
 
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