Factory Pipe Cooling Issues

[MDStandUp]

melted two pipe couplers.

Late last season i bought a WB1. Last year i only ran it once to make sure that it was running ok. which it was. Over the winter i stripped it down and cleaned up the entire thing. At that time i set it up for dual cooling. The dual cooling is 1 to the engine and one only for the exhaust. I set it but tapping into the pump into the bottom of the head, out the top of the head, straight line to pisser, T to a flow control into the stinger. I have great flow out the pisser. It actually is warm and may not even be near 120 degrees since i can keep my hand in the flow of the water. I would of thought it was that i had a screw cutting off the flow but i got the flow.
now the past two (only been out twice) rides i have melted and ripped the coupler off the head pipe to the chamber. The first time i thought it was just old and rotted out. The second time i noticed the entire exhaust to be extremely got. water box out and everything. also before i ripped the coupler i was getting the most heat around the coupler area because it was melting the paint on the pipe the most around there.
any ideas as to what to do or check.
i even disconneted the flow control, pulled the ball and spring for more flow there. while doing that was able to blow air back through the entire system making bubbles come out the pump.
help any ideas.

 

[rollin5150]

You need to open up your water screws on your headpipe. The water from the pisser is just from the chamber the supplies water to the screws. Either that or your water screw ports to the exhaust are clogged.

 

[cattledog]

You need to open up your water screws on your headpipe. The water from the pisser is just from the chamber the supplies water to the screws. Either that or your water screw ports to the exhaust are clogged.

yes clogged, take out the screws and use a very small drill bit or somthing thin and strong a large sewing needle and see if it goes thru, when i bought my sn the screws were clogged up and pipe was very hot

 

[MDStandUp]

do the crews control all of the water moving through the head pipe or just some. it cant be clogged since water is running through the entire system right?

 

[MDStandUp]

could back flushing clear this out? if it was clogged wouldnt no/little water come out the pisser. and if it did would it be steaming hot.

 

[rollin5150]

The water screws control the amount of water being injected into the exhaust. This is what cools you pipe down. The water input and output fittings on top and bottom of the headpipe allow water to be flown through the water jacket in the headpipe and which supplies water to the screw openings.

 

[rollin5150]

could back flushing clear this out? if it was clogged wouldnt no/little water come out the pisser. and if it did would it be steaming hot.

No, back flushing will not clear a clog like this.

Here is a very basic drawing of how it works. The head pipe is a water jacket with three small holes to inject water into the exhaust. The three small screws control the amount of water being injected.

 

[MDStandUp]

got it. ok now next problem. how would you drill them out and insert new screws. the easily visable top screw is all the way in with no head that or screw and nut like on my other skis. i think ive seen a thread on here. anyone know the link?
anyone have a diagram oh how a head pipe and screws work? im a visual guy.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

melted two pipe couplers.

Late last season i bought a WB1. Last year i only ran it once to make sure that it was running ok. which it was. Over the winter i stripped it down and cleaned up the entire thing. At that time i set it up for dual cooling. The dual cooling is 1 to the engine and one only for the exhaust. I set it but tapping into the pump into the bottom of the head, out the top of the head, straight line to pisser, T to a flow control into the stinger. I have great flow out the pisser. It actually is warm and may not even be near 120 degrees since i can keep my hand in the flow of the water. I would of thought it was that i had a screw cutting off the flow but i got the flow.
now the past two (only been out twice) rides i have melted and ripped the coupler off the head pipe to the chamber. The first time i thought it was just old and rotted out. The second time i noticed the entire exhaust to be extremely got. water box out and everything. also before i ripped the coupler i was getting the most heat around the coupler area because it was melting the paint on the pipe the most around there.
any ideas as to what to do or check.
i even disconneted the flow control, pulled the ball and spring for more flow there. while doing that was able to blow air back through the entire system making bubbles come out the pump.
help any ideas.

See post #7 right above...

Take the head pipe off and use a garden hose adaptor and a 'T' fitting with some 3/8 waterline to connect to each end fittings on the headpipe and turn the water hose on and see which screws are open or if any water is coming into the exhaust flow inside at each adjuster screw.
If barely any water comes out...there's your problem.
Can you see what I'm saying?
Chuck

 

[MDStandUp]

yeah i can definitely see what you guys are talking about ans will try that first. i want to say that the top screw is closed (recommended i believe). if i notice that either of the other two are clogged is it possible to clear the clogged holes with something without messing with the screws?

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

If you take off the headpipe you can test the bleeders by simply putting your thumb over one cooling barb and blowing in the other one. With all screws closed the cooling jacket should hold pressure. Crack one screw even a little bit and you should hear it hiss as you blow (the nut locks it, the allen adjusts it). Regardless of what you find by blowing, remove both cooling fittings and all screws that you can still turn. Plug openings with your hands as needed to fill the cooling passage up with water and then shake it like a mofo while letting the water drain out. As the water drains it will take any sand, pebbles, shells, ect with it. Do this a number of times until stuff stops coming out. Inspect both cooling fittings to make sure they aren't obstructed and reinstall. Reinstall the bleed screws (with antisieze) and leave them a combined total of at least 1/2 turn open. You might even want to go more. Which screws you leave open and by how much changes where the pipe kicks in and signs off. You should try changing the settings on the water too see how you like it best but remember that if you get at or below 1/2 turn to keep an eye on how hot things are getting.

 

[t1024j]

i had the same problem causing piston detonation on my exhaust side. took head pipe off. while i was pulling the screws out i noticed the middle screw was sheered(sp) in half so i can't remove it. hooked up my flush kit to one fitting turned water on. all was good until water shot me in the face. the weld where bottom screw is is a hole on the outside of my head pipe. my question is is that fixable? and how do i go about getting the middle screw out?

 

[MDStandUp]

Is there a nozzle inside the chamber. Someone said to check that too. I didn't think there was one unless there is a jacket that runs back off the stinger.

Ask another guy about it and he said some pipes do have one. Wtf. Where does it get water?

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

i had the same problem causing piston detonation on my exhaust side. took head pipe off. while i was pulling the screws out i noticed the middle screw was sheered(sp) in half so i can't remove it. hooked up my flush kit to one fitting turned water on. all was good until water shot me in the face. the weld where bottom screw is is a hole on the outside of my head pipe. my question is is that fixable? and how do i go about getting the middle screw out?

Post a pic of the issue by the bottom screw, it's hard to tell what you are talking about. There is a chance you can get that stuck screw out but it's not a very good one. This is a common problem, search the boards and you will find many techniques to try for getting it out.

Is there a nozzle inside the chamber. Someone said to check that too. I didn't think there was one unless there is a jacket that runs back off the stinger.

Ask another guy about it and he said some pipes do have one. Wtf. Where does it get water?

That is the stinger fitting and pretty much all pipes have them in some form or another. This clogged ALL THE TIME on my old blaster mod chamber.

 

[MDStandUp]

That is the stinger fitting and pretty much all pipes have them in some form or another. This clogged ALL THE TIME on my old blaster mod chamber.[/QUOTE]

thats good to know. but am i missing something. the singer inlet goes in the chamber makes a big loop and ONLY sprays in the exitting exhaust line. someone was saying they thought it Ted off in the chamber and ran back to a spray like pisser closer to the head.
alright ill quite for now. ill discover the issue saturday.

 

[t1024j]

there is a small hole or crack on the out side of my pipe so all the water that is supposed to go into the water jacket for cooling was just ending up in the hull of my ski.

Post a pic of the issue by the bottom screw, it's hard to tell what you are talking about. There is a chance you can get that stuck screw out but it's not a very good one. This is a common problem, search the boards and you will find many techniques to try for getting it out.



That is the stinger fitting and pretty much all pipes have them in some form or another. This clogged ALL THE TIME on my old blaster mod chamber.