Super Jet FL "winter" build- superjet RN- shortened, widened, rockered

Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
So I've ridden a standup no more than a half dozen times, on a superjet and a super freak, and I've decided to go all out with my first build (mainly bc I'm addicted to projects)

So I picked up a 04 superjet with side damage and a crappy foothold job.


Then started cutting the tray and footholds out
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Defoaming sucked but the pressure washer helped
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So I started cutting and glassing and sealing everything
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This little bit is awesome
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My drain plug idea, i wanted it to be flush
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New footholds- rev
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I dug these out to reuse for my SN ride plate
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Exhaust and pvc pipe secured
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Early stages of making my own front foothold
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2 part expanding foam sucks to work with, but I have the Home Depot pink foam under the tray
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Going with a CarterB rocker kit, he lives near me and let me check out his gen2 and gen3, decided on the gen3 to reduce splash.

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For the drain, I'm using a versiplug max in the pvc

Motor and paint has yet to be decided, I'll cross that bridge when it comes.

I already built my 144 pump, gonna change the prop to a 9/15 most likely
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It also helps that I work for JetManiac when I'm not in school, been there 2 years and just now decided to build a ski. I get bored easy and need projects, usually building and flipping cars or messing with dirt bikes.

To be continued..



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Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
After I made that cut, I realized I didn't measure right and take into account the awkward shape, I then had to recut the outside edge to make the sides parallel


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Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
tzane said:
Cool, just curious. Lots of superjets getting shorted right now. I'll be doing mine here in a few months.
Click to expand...

I did angled cut as you can see, but I really believe straight cut would have been much easier, so take that into account when you decide.

I don't want this project to drag on, but I have limited time to work on it while in school, hopefully get it done by spring break or early summer.


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Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Chase Musetti said:
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Click to expand...

Is that a dremmel attachment or a die-grinder?

Not sure what the issue you had with the foam was. Maybe it was just the sanding you didn't like. If however it was the pour and shaping that was the issue... you can cover the foam with visqueen or drop plastic to control how it expands. You can use tape or even push it with your hand. Just have a glove ready because it can get very hot when expanding if you have your hand on the plastic. Don't try to push it too much, especially with a tool because you can pop it. The best method is to create a barrier solid barrier behind the plastic (tape, cardboard, hand) and let it expand the direction you want it to under its own power. That eliminates the mushrooming.
 
Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
Vumad said:
Is that a dremmel attachment or a die-grinder?

Not sure what the issue you had with the foam was. Maybe it was just the sanding you didn't like. If however it was the pour and shaping that was the issue... you can cover the foam with visqueen or drop plastic to control how it expands. You can use tape or even push it with your hand. Just have a glove ready because it can get very hot when expanding if you have your hand on the plastic. Don't try to push it too much, especially with a tool because you can pop it. The best method is to create a barrier solid barrier behind the plastic (tape, cardboard, hand) and let it expand the direction you want it to under its own power. That eliminates the mushrooming.
Click to expand...

Dremel attachment-$15 attachment-crazy..

The frustration with the foam was pouring and controlling it properly and not wasting, I barely had enough. And I made the mistake of trying to move it and having it "pop". But I also know the way I used it was different since I had to remake and shape the part of the side wall.


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Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Chase Musetti said:
Dremel attachment-$15 attachment-crazy..

The frustration with the foam was pouring and controlling it properly and not wasting, I barely had enough. And I made the mistake of trying to move it and having it "pop". But I also know the way I used it was different since I had to remake and shape the part of the side wall.


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Click to expand...

You can't touch the foam with anything or it will pop as you learned. Next time place a piece of plastic over it. Something it wont stick to like painters drop plastic or visqueen. Tape the edges to the hull. Make your pour and then close up the other side. As it expands up, keep your hand there. It will hit the plastic and your hand and begin expanding in a different direction. It wont pop because you are not moving it, rather you are redirecting it and it is expanding normally. You can make some moderate pressure changes (how much depends on the shape, how much expansion, etc) as needed. You can also make a jig out of cardboard or other materials and then put plastic over it so it guides the foam to expand in a more complex shape.

For example on your try rebuild, if you had cut out a piece of cardboard to the approximate shape, leaving a little bit extra room to have some foam to shape, then put plastic between the cardboard and foam, you could have done it in one easy pour.

Try to limit the wrinkles in the plastic just because they get into the foam. They are not a big deal if they are there. You can use a heat gun to shrink the plastic onto your shape if you like.

This is how I laid up the back of my X2 when I shortened it. Plywood covered in plastic then heat shrunk. It also how I shaped my X2 plug in one pour. plastic taped on, then cut and shaped.

I realize this isn't a huge help because this job is already done, but I thought you could see how it works for you on your next project.
 
Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
Vumad said:
You can't touch the foam with anything or it will pop as you learned. Next time place a piece of plastic over it. Something it wont stick to like painters drop plastic or visqueen. Tape the edges to the hull. Make your pour and then close up the other side. As it expands up, keep your hand there. It will hit the plastic and your hand and begin expanding in a different direction. It wont pop because you are not moving it, rather you are redirecting it and it is expanding normally. You can make some moderate pressure changes (how much depends on the shape, how much expansion, etc) as needed. You can also make a jig out of cardboard or other materials and then put plastic over it so it guides the foam to expand in a more complex shape.

For example on your try rebuild, if you had cut out a piece of cardboard to the approximate shape, leaving a little bit extra room to have some foam to shape, then put plastic between the cardboard and foam, you could have done it in one easy pour.

Try to limit the wrinkles in the plastic just because they get into the foam. They are not a big deal if they are there. You can use a heat gun to shrink the plastic onto your shape if you like.

This is how I laid up the back of my X2 when I shortened it. Plywood covered in plastic then heat shrunk. It also how I shaped my X2 plug in one pour. plastic taped on, then cut and shaped.

I realize this isn't a huge help because this job is already done, but I thought you could see how it works for you on your next project.
Click to expand...

No I appreciate that advice, there is definitely a learning curve, but now I know for future


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AJs

AJs

Location
Mn
how much was the carter B nose kit and how difficult of a project would you say rockered nose is. I have little experience with fiberglass besides basic patches and putting in a set of foot holds
 
Chase Musetti

Chase Musetti

Location
Winter Park
AJs said:
how much was the carter B nose kit and how difficult of a project would you say rockered nose is. I have little experience with fiberglass besides basic patches and putting in a set of foot holds
Click to expand...

He sells them for $250. The instructions and template is easy to follow. Fiberglass work isn't hard, just read and watch videos for good technique. I'm currently still fiberglassing mine in and blending it. Anyone could do it, just time consuming. Go for it!


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