Flow control valve
- Thread starter sxrchris
- Start date
- Location
- St Charles IL
It's to dry out the waterbox..
Which helps with lower end cause there's less water built up in box.
Which helps with lower end cause there's less water built up in box.
A lot use them with wet pipes, I have them on both my wet pipe skis.
It's a piece of the puzzle like a lightened flywheel, a smaller mod if you will.
I'am gonna try a 120 main jet inside the line after the flow control valve next, to limit the amount of flow into the box once flow begins above idle
It's a piece of the puzzle like a lightened flywheel, a smaller mod if you will.
I'am gonna try a 120 main jet inside the line after the flow control valve next, to limit the amount of flow into the box once flow begins above idle
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
Yup. It's a $50 part. Expect exactly what it's worth performance wise. A tiny bit of snap.
- Location
- Oklahoma
I put one on the sxr I'm building right now, however I have a ATP waterbox which is supposed to hold way less water than stock, should I just take the fcv off and not have to worry about having trouble?
i try it whit no shim in,it suposed to open easely
- Location
- St Charles IL
You should test the pop off before installing if you can
I usually set mine to 6 psi
I usually set mine to 6 psi
- Location
- Victoria BC
Set it up to open at a certain rpm, test from 2500-3500rpm. This is one of those things the you have to play around with yourself to get the best result for YOU.
Pop off is not a good test (in a FCV case) because everyones water pressure will be different. Water pressure depends on your plumbing, prop pitch, nozzle dia, etc.
You adjust by swapping shims, more shims increases the spring preload thus requiring more pressure to open the valve (compress spring further).
Pop off is not a good test (in a FCV case) because everyones water pressure will be different. Water pressure depends on your plumbing, prop pitch, nozzle dia, etc.
You adjust by swapping shims, more shims increases the spring preload thus requiring more pressure to open the valve (compress spring further).
This can happen, if the ball valve sticks or gets plugged, your going to have too much heat in a hurry. I burnt the waterbox foam and exhaust hose out in 3 minutes.
Not used one since, not worth it imo. Use other ways to restrict/tune water.
Last edited:
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Mine made a huge difference by drying out the water box. It was well worth the $50
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Did you tune it or just start riding? You can't put a pipe on without rejetting the carb. You can't put a restrictor on lines without checking temperatures. Same thing is true of the pipe. If the pipe was tuned before the FCV, the pipe screw probably wasn't the problem. Either way, any change requires the whole package to be checked.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
It's similar to tuning the pipe screws. Set it cool and keep closing the screws until the pipe gets to the right temp.
Do you have the pro version with the spring you twist or do you have the shim kind with no spring? Either way, run it with the largest shim or the least spring pressure. Tighten the spring or use smaller shims until you get the desired result. I don't know exactly what the right temp is, so I don't want to mislead you there. I myself like to make sure there is no steam, sizzle, or any signs of excessive heat on my waterbox after extended WOT.
I probably run my stuff a little cooler than necessary. My pipe doesn't sizzle, etc. My Superjet makes plenty of power for what I like to do and an extra 0.5HP isn't worth it to me.
- Location
- Victoria BC
How many shims did you install? most people use no shims.