FX1 Build; Wide Tray, Shortened Pole, Kawasaki 140mm Pump Swap

Last Summer, I bought a beautiful FX1 from the second owner, who owned it for 25 years. He took such great care of it and I promised him that I'd do the same. It was pretty much stock, except for turf, a Skat Trak prop and Jet Dynamics ride plate and intake grate. I love the lightweight feel of it, and the way that the small hull carves, but the power of the stock 701 left a lot to be desired, especially compared to the ported & piped 718's in my Blaster and fixed steer Superjet. After doing tons of research I figured out exactly what I'd like to do to improve the few shortcomings of a stock FX1. These include; building the 701, shortening the pole, adding foot holds, upgrading the exhaust piping from 2" to 2-3/8", widening the tray, and adding a 140mm Kawasaki 650 pump.

I plan on keeping the FX1 as stock looking as possible, especially since I'm starting with such a nice ski. I pulled the stock 701 out, removed the turf, removed the pole, and stock pump. In this thread I'll outline what I'm doing, along with lots of details of the process, and part numbers for parts that I'm using.

First I shortened the pole by 2-3/4". The previous owner gave me an extra pole (he replaced this pole with another OEM pole years ago after the rivets came loose). He had already cut 1.5" out of the bottom of the pole, but never put it back together. I cut 1.25" from the top of the pole. I cut some of the styrofoam out from around where the holes for the rivets will go and JB Marine Welded stainless washers on the back side of the pole on the top, because when you put the top back together, you can't access the back side of the pole. I then spread JB Marine Weld on the top steering plate and the pole after I scuffed both surfaces with some 80 grit sandpaper. I then used stainless steel 3/16" rivets to hold it together. One the bottom of the pole I also cut some of the styrofoam out from around the holes and used stainless pan head screws, washers on the back, and stainless lock nuts (from other skis that I parted out) to hold the pole into the aluminum pole mounting base, along with JB Marine Weld. On the bottom you can reach in there to tighten nuts down, unlike the top where you can't. I'm very happy with how it turned out. I've heard people shorten their FX1 pole 2", 2.5", 3", and 4" so I decided to go somewhere in the middle.

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Next, I scraped the turf and padding off and marked the lines for my cuts. I spaced them 16-1/2" apart. That's currently where I am now. For some reason, at all points it measures 16-1/2" across, but the camera made it look like it was farther apart toward the back. This is where I currently am with the project.

To all of the guys that widened their tray before, does everything look good now with where I marked the rails?
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Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Couple different ways to do the wider tray.l preferred to keep the stock look by leaving the back of the gunwales and just doing a foothold surround.The flat part (at the rear) is not as wide like factory,but still maintains the look. but that’s just one way.
 

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Couple different ways to do the wider tray.l preferred to keep the stock look by leaving the back of the gunwales and just doing a foothold surround.The flat part (at the rear) is not as wide like factory,but still maintains the look. but that’s just one way.
Thanks for the feedback. That's what I'm looking for.......I want to keep it stock looking while still making the tray wider. If I understand you correctly, I would just taper the back in a little bit, so (referring to my picture) instead of the front and rear most sections of the tray both being 16.5" wide, I would taper it so the rear is about 15.5" wide and the front is 16.5" wide?
 
Thank you for the ideas! I appreciate everyone's feedback. I also have a SXR800 prop that I'll be using on mine because from everything I've read, it's the best prop for excellent down low, and all around performance. I planned on cutting it back 4 or 5mm and I also was going to have the blades of the prop thinned down because it's so heavy. Did you have your prop blades thinned down on yours as well?
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Thanks for the feedback. That's what I'm looking for.......I want to keep it stock looking while still making the tray wider. If I understand you correctly, I would just taper the back in a little bit, so (referring to my picture) instead of the front and rear most sections of the tray both being 16.5" wide, I would taper it so the rear is about 15.5" wide and the front is 16.5" wide?
l can take some measurements on mine which may help answer your question.Also,you can only go so far forward with you cut to widen the tray. @brapperdoodle can chime in on this area.
 
Got my tray cut out and it's all defoamed. The foam was absolutely soaked. It seemed like the water made its way in from the 2 holes that the factory used to inject the foam, and from the plastic steering cable tube where whatever sealant they used came loose. I'm thrilled with how it came out. You'll also see in the pictures where I ground through where the pump mounts, a little bit, so I'll be building it back up from the inside of the hull.

Then I got ready to cut the hole for the larger 2-3/8" exhaust tube in the rear of the hull, rather than use the stock 2" tube. I marked a 1/4" around the hole and then made the cut. It looked great, but when I put the new 2-3/8" exhaust tube in, the hole was way too big (about 3/16" around all sides of the new exhaust tube). I messed up badly on that by not measuring the size of the original hole. I would assume I can just fiberglass over it and then cut the hole again, but this time the correct size?


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Looks like the pump is going to fit perfect. I made a new rear exhaust tube out of 2-3/8" aluminum tubing and I cut out the flange from 1/8" aluminum plate. I've got to have my welder TIG it next. It took some time to get the angle of the tube and the flange just right, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Next, I'm going to run a second 3/8" through hull cooling line so I can use the stock siphon bilge along with an electric Rule 500 unit. Once the weather gets warmer I'll be able to start on the fiberglass work.




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I got my LPW 718 with a 46mm Mikuni and West Coast Wet Jet intake manifold roughly assembled. I also got the Factory B Pipe powdercoated candy purple metallic. The progress is slowly moving along.MEMO0030.JPGMEMO0032.JPG
 
It's been a while and unfortunately I never had this project done and ready for the water last Summer. I am going in a completely different direction with the pump swap. I got a really high quality @tom21 144mm pump tunnel for the FX1, and @sasquatchcrap cut down a driveshaft to pre-2008 Superjet length. I rebuilt the stock midshaft with all new OEM components, changed the midshaft housing out with a good one where the rubber wasn't separating, and I got a OEM Yamaha 144mm pump freshly rebuilt with OEM components along with a 65v GP760 / GP800 reduction nozzle, and I adapted the X2 steering and trim nozzle to it. I also got a Hooker 9/15 prop and a DG Quadrafin ride plate.
 
I think you can't go wrong with either conversion as they are both so much better than the 122 stocker. I went with the kawi pump because I had gotten the pump and driveshaft from a friend who was going to do his fx and never did. I did put a tbm pump cone in mine wich also made a big difference. I also ended up d cutting my ride plate just like my superjet and I like the way it rides and handles better than both the protec and riva groovy I have for it.
 
I think you can't go wrong with either conversion as they are both so much better than the 122 stocker. I went with the kawi pump because I had gotten the pump and driveshaft from a friend who was going to do his fx and never did. I did put a tbm pump cone in mine wich also made a big difference. I also ended up d cutting my ride plate just like my superjet and I like the way it rides and handles better than both the protec and riva groovy I have for it.
How does your pump swapped FX1 compare to your Superjet? I have a RN Superjet with a @tom21 fixed steer hood and a LPW ported 718 and I'm curious how the two hulls with pretty much exact same drive lines will compare.
 
Location
dfw
Opening up the exhaust won’t help if you are running a pipe. The pipe needs back pressure in order to work. The Kawasaki 140 is best if you want to keep the stock inlet. Changing the inlet and using a Yamaha 144 will make it pull harder at low speeds and prime faster in rough water. Getting the inlet large enough is important for low speed performance.
 
The fx1 is narrower and a lot lighter so it has always been a lot sketchier at high speeds unless there is a good chop on the water. The 140 has made a huge difference in throttle response from bottom to top of the rpm's. It carves a lot better with the tom 21 tubbies but not as good as my 2006 superjet did. I am building an 07 superjet now that I think will be even better than any of my previous 4 superjets were and they were all easier to ride than the fx1. fx1's are not for everyone as they can be a real challenge to stay on top of. I bought mt first one new in 1995 and I still haven't mastered it yet!
 
So I finished cutting the bottom of the FX1 to fit the Tom21 144mm pump tunnel and I am very happy with how it turned out. No turning back now! Luckily there are great members that have posted threads here that have helped me through this process tremendously. The new pump tunnel fits like a glove. I'll fill the gaps with thickened epoxy and chopped fiberglass strand once I drill the holes for the pump in the tunnel and then have the entire pump and pump tunnel assembly aligned.

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Location
dfw
I like slots in the gunwales for general riding. If the top edges are too thin I have to wear boots to keep from bruising my legs.
 
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