Good mods for flatwater for a Squarenose?

BombThreat · Mar 24, 2007

Im close to finishing my engine so it's just about time to start doing things to the hull I guess. One problem... I dont know ********!:biggrin: I have searched and info specific to SN's seems to be more scarce then RN's mod info. Would it be too much to ask for some help on what mods might I as well do while the ski is completly apart?

The things I'm pretty sure I'll be doing are:

*Installing REV footholds (got 'em on sale)

*Reinforcing the inner bond lines between the bottom and top deck (would this be worth my time since im kinda stuck inland?)

*Yamaslut hood mod

*Installing turf

*Repaint the inside engine compartment...just to make it look good

urr: (any recommendations for prep/paint?)

I'll be truthfull, I don't know jack about these things but I do plan on riding it alot this year and learning freestyle. So even the smallest hints/tips/tricks/mods will be very helpful. Thanks!

Frosty · Mar 24, 2007

reinforce under the handle pole braket too... hood straps for sure... maybe a scupper or one way checkk valve. sounds like you got everything else covered.

D-Roc · Mar 24, 2007

a hood mod is good one, reinforce sides because they are weak, footholds are great for freestyle. short RN pole conversion is important too. I just finished mine and actually rode it a bit today. SN are good enough to freestyle on and once you get all the good bolt ons and motor built up you can switch it all to a RN. i'll ride a SN for a bit yet. here's a few of how mine turned out, don't ask me about paint stuff, i am a spraybombin hack at best. It ain't pretty but i like it better then my kawi.:biggthumpup:

BombThreat · Mar 24, 2007

nice paint d-roc

She's a sleeper. Can I ask you a few questions though? Whats the advantage in relocating the gas cap directly on the tank? It also seems like you like to keep everything neat in the engine compartment... I'd also like to do that as best as possible. Where do you recommend getting nice flexable/transulsent fuel lines and filters, ect?

BombThreat · Mar 24, 2007

Oh yeah I forgot to ask, does anyone have some good info on how to mod the older SJ pumps with that bilge hole? I heard a few people saying it could increase speeds of 2-3 mph!

D-Roc · Mar 24, 2007

BombThreat said:
Oh yeah I forgot to ask, does anyone have some good info on how to mod the older SJ pumps with that bilge hole? I heard a few people saying it could increase speeds of 2-3 mph!

i filled mine in with a rubber plug. i have my pump out for resealing so i might try and jb weld it. I liked the rubber plug because if it came out it was soft and would not do as much damage as a chunk of jbweld. the fuel line i got on ebay, and i actually found some nicer fuel filters today from a local tractor/hardware store. i will put them on before the next ride. the internal filler allows you to show off your motor everytime you refill. best results when flexing while undoing the cap!:biggthumpup: It clean because i just assembled it all. our dirty riverwater will make it tough to keep pretty, it's only new for a day.:sneaky:

BombThreat · Mar 25, 2007

All the bilge mod intailes is filling in that hole somehow? Is there anything else involved?

Another thing, since I'll be doing alot of glasswork and I havent done any before. Are there any good guides/how-to's for beganners? Also what types of glass / epoxy should I be using?

Thanks

Frosty · Mar 25, 2007

i usually buy my epoxy from us composits (on line). becaues most of my work up here in the the north is done during the winter, i usually get the 4:1 fast hardening hardener.
http://shopmaninc.com/epoxy.html

for the bond line i've both 2 part marine foam and epoxy with filler

http://shopmaninc.com/foam.html

http://shopmaninc.com/westfillers.html

D-Roc · Mar 25, 2007

BombThreat said:
All the bilge mod intailes is filling in that hole somehow? Is there anything else involved?

Another thing, since I'll be doing alot of glasswork and I havent done any before. Are there any good guides/how-to's for beganners? Also what types of glass / epoxy should I be using?

Thanks

yeah on my ski i put it together with ebay and other aftermarket parts so i may have not had that whole stock bilge setup to begin with. My pump does have that large 3/4" hole that i put the plug in and i also have a newer stock rideplate that doesn't have all the jazz to hook up the bilge hose. so for me it was as easy as pluging the pump hole and capping the old thru hull fitting to keep water out.. the tech FAQ has some glassing threads i believe. also spend a couple hours reading other people's buildup threads. alot of glasswork gets done and explains the why's and how's of reinforcing.

meatball · Mar 25, 2007

It will not add 2-3 mph, mabye a bit more bottom end, but your increasing water coming out, and not water velocity. I drilled mine off, filled the hole with JB weld, and grinded it with a dremel to make it look like it was never there. If you have the plastic exit nozzle that was on some of the sqaures, get a metal one, it makes a sizable difference.

D-Roc · Mar 25, 2007

meatball said:
. If you have the plastic exit nozzle that was on some of the sqaures, get a metal one, it makes a sizable difference.

how does that make a difference? i got a pos plastic one but figured it was pretty much the same.

sjweber · Mar 25, 2007

Don't forget about the electric bilges. those come in handy if the motor craps out on you and the hull is full. I am doing the bonline now and reinforcing the sides. Debating on carbon or glass and paint. I have a scupper, but would probably go with a one way from HD if I did it again. Yeah the round nose pole conversion is huge. I love it.
You have all the right ideas. Glass is not as bad as you think. I used west system. but the guys say anything similar will work.
Good luck, I love to see people rebuilding squares. :biggthumpup:

meatball · Mar 25, 2007

Well for one, the bilge humps is tons smaller. And they are machinable for larger diameters. Ask Chuck, he'll give you the lowdown. I would quote him but cant find the post.

I cant make a direct comparison between my two skis because of the different parts, but the steering is relatively the same, and I swapped the bars at one point, so thats no nevermind either. The metal exit nozzle just feels more 'accurate'. I swapped the plastic one over to my sitdown as well last summer, and it made a few subtle differences in acceleration and handling. That huge hump certainly should have an effect on water turbulence as well.

ANT · Mar 25, 2007

you'll definetly notice the difference on the bottom, i had the same issue with my ski, all i did was fill it with silicone and hose clamped a garden hose over the hole. it's not a big difference but its there.

romack991 · Mar 25, 2007

My plastic nozzle does just fine and its been bored to ø85. Even has trim.

BEFORE/AFTER

TRIM/SAME BUT CLEANED UP

^and yes my ski was sitting on a 5 gallon bucket...:icon16:

thelovewalrusman · Mar 25, 2007

The 5 Gallon ski stand thats just how we roll in Indiana

romack991 · Mar 25, 2007

i have since upgraded to sawhorses

thelovewalrusman · Mar 25, 2007

Dang sawhorses....I wish I had some of those..wishing upon a star. I am still settling for the shipping pallet ski stand

D-Roc · Mar 26, 2007

my plastic nozzle does not look like that!!! hmm i am going to go re check but i am most positive i don't have that huge bulge in the side.

Good mods for flatwater for a Squarenose?

BombThreat

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