How have you shaved weight off your SJ?

Jawbreaker

Rick James Edition
Location
Music City, TN
I wanted to start a thread to see what creative ways people have come up with to shave weight off their oem SJ hull.:rolleyes:
So lets hear em! Whatcha got?:biggrin:
 

Boris

The Good Old Days
I'm playing with an idea, it might be dumb but here goes nothing.

After seeing (in another thread) how a hull and top deck can be split with little to no damage I started thinking how everyone re-enforces their hulls because the SMC is rather weak.
The hull is also on the heavy side so I thought about having it sandblasted.
Not just to clean the inside but to blast off some of the thickness than adding glass or stronger materials (carbon/kevlar).

Would loosing a third of the hulls thickness and re-enforcing with more exotic materials result in a stronger lighter hull ?
 

Mile9c1

X-H2O.com
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I'm sure it would but I'm thinking about a $100 square hull.
I don't even know how much a bottom deck would cost.

I don't know either, but carbon fiber is expensive, and so is your time. Think of the resale value too.

I think you'd have a hard time consistently sandblasting to 1/3 the thickness. Also, you'd wreck the integrity of the hull that was left behind. And reinforcement that isn't perfect laid will add extra weight but no strength (for example, if you use too much resin).
 

Boris

The Good Old Days
I hate to admit it but you are correct.
Although my time or resale value wouldn't be a concern there is the cost of materials.

Well there goes that theory out the window. :biggthumpup:


I guess air bladders instead of foam and/or more power would make more sense.
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
*Kart tank save a couple pounds over OEM
*If you are running MSD TL you can save anouther 10 by running a lead acid motorcycle battery.....4lbs, that will last you about an hour of riding time,
*Carbon fiber ride plate can shed anouther 3-4lbs off the rear of the boat. Weigh an aluminum plate sometime.........its rediculous
*I milled part of a RIVA manifold out to recess the reed cages and lost anouther 2.3lbs.........now the entire manifold and reed cage assembly weighs less than a RIVA manifold alone.
*Replace the factory waterbox! Running a X-metal box will save you almost 10lbs
* Lose all the OEM rail guards, front bumper guard, tray pads ect and just turf it. I bet you save 6lbs just in getting rid of that garbage.
*Take a grinder and remove the overhang that usually is visible along the bond line of the SJ. That may save a few ounces. Also clearence the rear of the tray for a trim system or cut it off the rear lip. This will not only save a little more weight but prevent the rear of the ski from catching water when the nose shoots up.


*You can also just reinforce the top deck of the ski and not continue onto the bottom deck. That will save a few pounds and if you are a flatwater rider it is doubtful that you need all that extra reinforcement on the bottom. The bottom deck is typically 2-3 thicker anyway.

** Be picky in what parts you buy. A b-pipe weighs less then say a Protec pipe. A RRP weighs more than a Waterdawg pole or X-metal pole. If your goal is to save weight don't make decisions that add weight........but its all in what you value. If you want a tank of a hull, reinforce the crap out of it, but lbs add up quick. If you want pole adjustablity, get a RRP. It will cost you a few pounds but it is all a matter of what you want.
 
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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Carbon fiber ride plate can shed anouther 3-4lbs off the rear of the boat. Weigh an aluminum plate sometime.........its rediculous

I don't know....stock rideplate is pretty light already.
 
The first thing I done (which I am sure most others have done) remove all hose clamps and brackets replace them with zip ties. Also remove all the factory stuff. Water seperator battery vent tube ... all that stuff.
 
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