I Can NOT get my coupler off!!

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
On the engine or midshaft? Use a propane torch on the coupler only and apply it quickly. The coupler is made of aluminum and the crank or midshaft is made of steel. The coupler will expand faster than the crank and this reduces the friction between the two. If that doesn't work, put the piece outside or in the freezer if just the midshaft and after a few hours, torch the coupler again for that additional temperature variance.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I tried a bunch of stuff to prevent damage to the midshaft and ended up just clamping some vice grips as hard as possible on it and hammering on the coupler. Obviously I didn't care about the old coupler but it worked like a charm. Rope down the spark plug hole works like a charm getting the coupler off the engine.
 

THRUST

ThrustInnovations.com
flatten 2 sides of the raised area on the midshaft to hold it like a bolt .
then run a breaker bar inbetween the teeth on the coupler after heating like mentioned before and it will come loose if not give a few taps on one tooth with hammer to help free it up then repeat
 

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
And it takes ALOT more heat than you would think!!! I have a propane torch about the size of a 1 liter bottle and I had to heat for 15 minutes and it then spun off real easy.

The 1st 2 I ever did I heated for 10 minutes and was about to break the housing, the 15 minutes of heat is where it's at!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
When you do finally get it off, make sure you use anti seize on the threads when you put it back together so you don't have this problem the next time around.

Yamaha uses some serious Loctite or similar that is why it is such a pita.

We put it in a lathe chuck and low gear the spindle then use the heat and bar method. It sucks but it works.

I would offer to do it for the guy but geopgraphy is a b itch.

Brian
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
Both mine came off relatively easy the other night. That removal tool on an impact is the ultimate. I friend of mine has one and has done a few couplers and it works like a champ with heat.

I pipe wrenched the mid shaft, heated the coupler with mapp gas for under a minute (aimed the flame directly at the center of the coupler) and used another pipe wrench to grab and remove the coupler. The coupler was bent like the rest of the boat, so I didn't care to mess it up. And the coupler on the motor I heated the same, used a cold fusion flywheel tool, and a pipe wrench on the coupler to remove it.

They both took some muscle. Maybe the extra heat from the mapp gas helped? It was literally smoking hot in under a minute. I was worried to heat it any more.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
If you heat the coupler for more than a minute or two, you'll expand the midshaft too much and it'll take much more heat to get that extra expansion between the two. Blast the coupler at the threads and about halfway up the diameter, then back on the threads once more. If you can grip the midshaft and grip the coupler, it'll slide right off unless someone put some sort of glue on it.
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
If your having trouble removing either part of the coupler, your using the wrong tools.

I have an old pump shaft I cut in half and welded on a piece of angle to hold it in my vice. Slip the midshaft on the pump shaft, put a piece of pipe between the fingers of the coupler. Push down to unscrew, works like a charm.

For the crank coupler I attach my flywheel holder tool to the flywheel. Put a piece of pipe between the fingers of the coupler. Push down to unscrew, works like a charm.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Sweet! I got the mid shaft one off just needed more heat like you boys said, now for the motor if I heat too much it will wreck the seals on the block right
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I've never heated the coupler on the engine side for fear of wrecking those seals. Rope in the cylinder and crank on it with a steel pipe or 2x4. At least that's how I've done all my motors.
 
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