I know this is kinda out there, but...

swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
what if I shaped a formed a section of sheet metal to the shape of a part I wanted, then built it up with glass top & bottom.

I'm thinking about modifying the bond line on a ski, my idea is to cut off part of it, attach (screw or rivet) some 18 or 20 gauge sheet metal to whats left, then form it to the new shape I want. (I could use Aluminum.) Then glass it (possibly drilling holes so the glass can fuse) and then glassing it up thick into the existing bond line.

This allows me to get the shape I want without molds etc.

I'm a fab guy by nature. My mind naturally thinks in metal, and welds, so this fiberglass business is still a little new to me.

But does this sound like a terrible idea?

Thanks for entertaining my question.
 
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Flash-FX

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
Location
South Jersey Shore
vitalikol said:
It's like foam and glass. I think foam will be better ( extra flotation)
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X-2...

Use sheet metal on a metal car...

The 4-5lb "blue foam" is much easier to work with. Cut basic strips to bond on the side of your boat with bondo, then shape it with 36-40 grit paper. After you get it shaped where you think it needs to be, lay glass over the top. When those layers are done curing, flip the boat over, trim off the jagged edge, and carve out the foam underneath the lip. Then finish up by glassing the bottom half of the lip (rail).
You should end up with a decent looking, and very strong lamination. Dress up the work with some finishing filler.

We're looking forward to some "snow man" dust pix soon.....lol
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Ok, thanks for the suggestions guys.

You kinda hit it on the head. I'm a car guy, so I always think metal.

This is my truck...
DSCN4225.jpg


bedf.jpg
 
WaveDemon

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
FYI non-gelcoated fiberglass will leak water through (very slowly but it will) tiny air holes created when the resin cures. The metal will eventually rust.


how about more info on the truck?
 
S

Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
If you think it will be easier for you to get the results you want using ALUMINUM go for it. Get your shape pounded out and fit then swiss cheese the crap out of it before you glass. 20 guage aluminum with holes cut in it will weigh next to nothing.
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Waternut

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I think it depends on how many hulls you plan to make. If you're thinking more than one, even a rough mold would make more sense in my mind. Fiberglass is not hard to work with at all but if you're not familiar with it, I understand it takes a little initiative to make that jump into something new. However, once you learn that new skill, you'll be amazed how well your fabricators mind can take that skill to the next level.

Personally I think combining metal and fiber reinforced composites (fiberglass and carbon) is a terrible idea because the two often disbond from each other and create even more problems. One note of caution though... If you do decide to use a fiber composite on top of aluminum, DO NOT let carbon come in direct contact with the aluminum. The carbon will corrode the aluminum in a fairly short amount of time and the hull will start to fall apart soon after.
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Thanks for the feed back.

I think the main use is getting lost in translation.
Ive constructed this highly detailed and to scale drawing (LMAO) to demonstrate what I'm suggesting.

hulllcopy.jpg
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
The Bond line/ rails already points down, at a 90* angle. It comes out about 3/4 of an inch (Horizontal, like what is left in the picture) And then down 3/4" (Vertically, which I was intending to remove.)

My goal is to create more surface area, add A LITTLE (don't want to stir up all the FX1 purists...) more stability.

This is where I got the idea.
Fast forward to 3:34 sec.

Here is what you will see.

bondlinecopy.jpg


I don't want to completely remove the all of the existing bond line and risk the structural integrity of the ski, so by removing the Vertical part, and adding/ flaring the bond line out, it will provide more surface area. This thread is to discuss my technique.
Also this could be an effective way to add a rail/bond line at the front of the ski to reduce spray, which seems to be a complaint by some members who have removed that to shorten the nose of their ski and re-shape the rocker.
 
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Waternut

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Shoot, if that's all you're doing, go ahead. The worst that can happen there is it rips off and ends your weekend riding. Heck if you just want to experiment and figure out what works best, you could always just rivet a thicker piece of aluminum to the bond rail for prototyping and once you figure out the best shape for your application, then glass it in.
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Waternut said:
Shoot, if that's all you're doing, go ahead. The worst that can happen there is it rips off and ends your weekend riding. Heck if you just want to experiment and figure out what works best, you could always just rivet a thicker piece of aluminum to the bond rail for prototyping and once you figure out the best shape for your application, then glass it in.
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Ok cool, so the consenus i'm getting is that this isn't a terrible idea and as long as I use Aluminum with a Glass coating it should be fine. I really appreicate the feedback, even the negative! LOL
I think this will be useful for the guys who shorten their ski and have no front bond line.


vitalikol said:
I hate it. It's suck when people lowering their trucks. If you make it 10' in the air - it's find with me, if you put it on the ground - waste of good truck.
Just my opinion.
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No offense taken, everyone is entitled to their own opinion. My truck gets a lot of love. Its been featured in Minitruckin Magazine, is due to come out in Street Trucks in 4 or 5 months and will also be featured in a European Magazine called Max Performance.
I think its a rusty little truck, but everyone really gets a kick out of it.
 
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